Must Do's for a New Forester? - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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Must Do's for a New Forester?

Hi everyone. I have just got my New Forester XT with Leather trim. Its been in my garage while I fit a few accessories and just wondered what long term Forester owners would or would not do to a new Forester. I have used AutoGlym polish and resin sealer on the paint work and treated the engine to a good coating of Autoglym Vinyl & Rubber care.

What else would others do?

Also I intend to change the engine oil and filter at 1000 miles (old school) and then subsequently every 5000 miles. What would be a good oil change regime for the gearbox and diffs? I do tow a small caravan / trailer quite regularly.

Thanks

D

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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 05:52 AM
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There's a forum called Detailing World in the UK that covers all sorts of paint and wheel sealants. As the car is brand new, I would be tempted to go with a ceramic type sealant for body and wheels and a nano type sealant for the glass.

There's always the option of 3m clear plastic on the panels most likely to see stone chips and road rash.

I couldn't possibly comment on which fluids might be best for the 2019 CVT box. Opie Oils do a decent selection though and bound to have something suitable if you don't want the Subaru own fluid.

How heavy is the trailer/caravan? Anything under 800Kg and I wouldn't worry too much about extra fluid changes, anything above and I would be doing them every 3-4K miles depending on how often you are towing.

If Subaru don't do any decent mats, WeatherTech, based in the US do some decent options and commonly sold in the UK

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 12:53 PM
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Instead of sealant, go for NuFinish. Once a year, and does the same. I went with opticoat and it didn't last long, but other brands may be better, but is pricey.

PPF if you want to protect against rocks.

Mud Flaps.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 07:07 PM
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I changed my diff fluids for the first time at 30k miles and they were very dirty. Next time, I will change them much earlier, like around 15k miles.

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 01:44 PM
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Also I intend to change the engine oil and filter at 1000 miles (old school) and then subsequently every 5000 miles.
I'm probably older school than you, but I'm curious what you intend to accomplish with those intervals.

My engine is the 2.0T. I'm past the third 6000 mile oil change, and I'd tell you that even at 18,000 miles you'll still see some minor break-in effects. But after seeing the results of the first 6000 miles, there was nothing that made me think I should have changed the oil earlier than 6000.

Results were from Blackstone.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 02:14 PM
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Replace that moped horn !
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 03:34 AM
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Some advice I can give for caring for the leather: Don't treat it with any "conditioners", or any products that may leave the seats and/or trim glossy or greasy. Modern leathers aren't true "leather", they're basically leather coated vinyl. If you put something on there that leaves a gloss or residue, it actually attracts dirt and debris to stick to it, and can actually abrade the surface and edges prematurely.

If you want to care for it and protect it, clean them often with a very mild cleaner (read: you can use a little bit of hand soap and warm water on a microfiber), and if you want to protect them, Aerospace 303 is perfect for what you need. It won't leave a residue or gloss if buffed off correctly, and will aid in reducing UV damage to the surface over time.

Hope this helps!
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 03:46 AM
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Regarding the oil & service intervals: Because you have the turbocharged FA20DIT, which can be quite hard on oil, I think you're damn close to what you asked. I have a 2015 WRX, with the same motor and a 6 speed manual transmission, and even with just daily use and driving around town, 4,000 miles is enough to shear most 5W-30 weight oils down to 5w-20, which is thin for the amount of cylinder pressure these engines build.

My advice: Do your first oil dump at 1,000 miles, and then your next at 4,000 miles, and on the third oil change 4,000 miles later, get a used oil analysis done by Blackstone Laboratories. Here's a good example of what mine looked like previously.

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for the input. I have not replied sooner as I had to run North for work and not had chance to reply to you all. But I will.. soooo many questions.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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PPF?

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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CGumina View Post
Regarding the oil & service intervals: Because you have the turbocharged FA20DIT, which can be quite hard on oil, I think you're damn close to what you asked. I have a 2015 WRX, with the same motor and a 6 speed manual transmission, and even with just daily use and driving around town, 4,000 miles is enough to shear most 5W-30 weight oils down to 5w-20, which is thin for the amount of cylinder pressure these engines build.

My advice: Do your first oil dump at 1,000 miles, and then your next at 4,000 miles, and on the third oil change 4,000 miles later, get a used oil analysis done by Blackstone Laboratories. Here's a good example of what mine looked like previously.

Roger that and thanks for the input. I’d rather do it right rather than skimp.. my VW transporter was on a long life service regime that is totally **** as it cost me a cam rebuild at 220k where if I had changed the oil every 6k I am sure it would still be running fine. Lesson learned.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Droider View Post
Hi everyone. I have just got my New Forester XT with Leather trim. Its been in my garage while I fit a few accessories and just wondered what long term Forester owners would or would not do to a new Forester. I have used AutoGlym polish and resin sealer on the paint work and treated the engine to a good coating of Autoglym Vinyl & Rubber care.

What else would others do?

Also I intend to change the engine oil and filter at 1000 miles (old school) and then subsequently every 5000 miles. What would be a good oil change regime for the gearbox and diffs? I do tow a small caravan / trailer quite regularly.

Thanks

D
Consider buying another OME wheel and mounting a full-sized spare. It WILL fit in the tire well but you'll need to modify the flange the retaining bolt slides through--if you don't, the retaining bolt isn't long enough. Once having a full sized spare, you can swap out a flat regardless of where it is (front or back), not having to move the donut spare to the rear. My 2-cents.
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 08:53 AM
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I applied and then buffed out a coat of Lexol leather preservative on all my leather right after I got my car new... it softened up the leather quite a bit (which, from sitting outside for a while waiting to be sold, and in a closed hot car, likely somewhat "cooked" the leather)… went from stiff and scary to almost leather couch comfy. And don't forget all the other leather "bits" (like the panels on the door and on the center console, etc, as well as the back seat).

I noticed an immediate improvement. Do NOT use something like Armor All (which is really BAD for leather) but something made to nourish and feed leather.

If at first you don't succeed, try, try a bigger hammer.
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 09:55 AM
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There's always the option of 3m clear plastic on the panels most likely to see stone chips and road rash.
UK
I regret using the 3m clear plastic on my 2011 Altima. Was allot of money and now looks like a disaster on the car.

The Ocecolakidtoo *
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 04:03 PM
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I regret using the 3m clear plastic on my 2011 Altima. Was allot of money and now looks like a disaster on the car.
I put that on my 2012 motorcycle and it still looks great. I would not hesitate to use it. Key might be in the application.
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