Began getting the EJ22T ready.
Cleaned the nearly 20 years worth of gunk off the block and then cleaned some more. I don't plan to replace the rear main seal as it appears dry and they are a PITA to get back in, from everything I've read online.
Edit 6/22/10: When getting the FW/clutch/PP ready, I noticed the Rear Main looked 'suspect', so I changed it.
Removed the oil pump, checked the screws on the back, replaced the O-ring and reinstalled the oil seal around the crank. Used Permatex aneorobic gasket maker (red stuff) as recommended for sealing parts that don't use an actual gasket.
Replaced the water pump and thermostat.
On the back, I replaced the Separator Plate aka "Rear main seal retainer" w/the 3rd (or is that 4th) generation metal retainer and 5+1 bolts/screws. Used the Permatex again:
I wanted to run a thinner headgasket to keep the CR up around 8-8.5:1. Based on a few threads over on NASIOC I read that others had used the '96-98 EJ22e - Phase 1 - (non-turbo) HG. But when I got ready to install it I saw this:
And decided too much of the passages were covered, so I went ahead and just installed the EJ22T HG.
Heads installed w/Cam sprockets:
I decided to use the EJ25's water cross over since the sensors on the intake manifold would match:
I'm not sure if this will be a good idea as it puts the 2 sensors in a very tight area (see below).
I kept the pipe from the EJ22T that runs from the water pump to the Turbo's coolant tank:
I used the EJ22T's IAC since it has the 90 elbow to clear the turbo. It was a direct swap, incl. the connector, for the EJ25's except it only uses 3 bolts to mount, IIRC.
STi engine mounts and exhaust manifold installed:
Unexciting as it is, I got the PCV/breather hoses where I think they'll work- I'll clean it up after installed in the car:
I ran the hose off the PCV out thru the pass. side of the IM....wait and see if that'll work w/the PS lines, et al:
Installed my 1st DOHC Timing belt. Used clamps to hold the belt in place on the pass. side and to hold the sprockets on the driver's side. Wasn't as big a deal as I thought it'd be. Used the marks on the timing covers and then counted the teeth - 3x - to verify. I had another 'gotcha' as the EJ22T's Tbelt tensioner pulley's bolt stripped out. Thankfully I had another EJ22e. Since the bracket that the pulleys/tensioner attach to is replaceable, I just swapped in the other one. I could have also used the newer style tensioner and pulled the bracket from the EJ25:
To get the other heat/coolant line I modded the EJ22T's line. I cut and bent the tab, drilled the hole bigger and got lucky to reuse the oil galley bolt. Hopefully, it'll be close enough when installed:
Spark Plugs I installed are NGK PFR6B. These are the same plugs used on the JDM EJ20 w/these heads and turbo camshafts. I set the gap to .035 based on my experience and what I've read online. The stock EJ22T gap is .044, but I'll be running twice the boost which necessitates a tighter gap.
Engine installed pics below. The main issue was getting the engine/trans to mate up...I've only done one other 5-speed install (but 4 w/4EATs) and it went together easier, but eventually I got it lined up.
I followed the same install for the turbo's intake and coolant tank as my Legacy, so it was pretty easy.
Another issue is mounting the coolant tank-for now it's zipped tied to the AC hose. I removed the EGR valve's bracket and it's just held in place by the 4 vac lines attached to it. I'll probably move the tank to the front right like the WRX/FXT location.
Moved the tank to the front pass. side. Built a bracket that mounts to the P/S's bracket. I was able to run the hose from the bottom of the tank under the IM to the same hard pipe w/a length of heater hose and the 'stock' U-shaped hose I had (good thing I never throw stuff away!). I was able to use the EJ22T's turbo return line also :-). I bought some new lines for the 2 small lines that run to the radiator and overflow tank, and ran them along the radiator.
The '98 radiator overflow bottle is different than the '99 I found out (I got a '99 to replace the '98's oil coated insides - due to HG). So it's attached, but not correctly.
Since I used the stock SF's radiator (I've had NO issues running the stock NA radiator on my Legacy), I did the same mod as on my Legacy - removed the rubber seal on the radiator cap that's on the radiator (the one @ the end of the spring end; not the one that seals the lip). The coolant tank's overflow tube goes to the overflow tank; the radiator's overflow tube goes to the coolant tank's other small connector; the bigger top connector goes to the turbo, and the bottom connector goes to the hard line that runs from the water pump. I just used hoses I had availble from the other swaps I've done.
The PCV and Breather hose install went OK, other than the Helix Catch Can needs a better home (above CC actuator for now).
I left the coil pack disconnected, filled the oil and coolant, and turned it over for about 5 seconds- 3 times - to hopefully pressurize the systems. Connected the coil pack and it started after about 5 seconds of cranking!!
So far the only engine-related issues I've had are an oil leak on the pass. side head (fixed - I hope) and a small leak from the turbo's coolant supply...that one will have to wait for when I upgrade the turbo as it's underneath the turbo and between the up pipe and head. :
AC and harness tucked under the Pitch Stop for the IC install:
"Phase 1" install pics (stock injectors/VF11 Turbo/no IC):
STi 550cc yellow side-feed Injectors going in (actually flow tested by Witchhunter @ ~525 @ 43.5 PSI). They look identical to the stock Forester EJ25 injectors and fit the stock fuel rails: