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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Update

New update:

As winter approached I started to think about lifting the car back up to stock. I went out and measured the height and found the rear 1/2" lower than the front. So I started to think about spacers. Instead I took the opportunity to take the car up a bit more since it had ended up a little lower than I wanted.

I switched to RCE yellows (10mm drop from WRX stock) instead of RCE blacks (25mm drop from WRX stock). I also changed the c-clip on the GT Worx Bilsteins to the highest setting (+10mm). The whole spring switch out took me 3 hours which isn't too bad, I was able to get it done before lunch :rock:

I like the new stance better. Plus the RCE yellows are stiffer (320/320 lbs/in vs 275/250 lbs/in). I actually have 3/8" spacers from Subtle on order too, but the guys at Subtle are at SEMA so the parts didn't get here in time for me to put them on. I may or may not put them on at this point but for 30 bucks it's nice to have the option.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I absolutely enjoy this setup. I was worried the yellows would be harsher than the blacks but honestly it feels better to me. Most likely that came due to the increased travel the shock has. Great for a daily driver IMHO. Of course I autocross a different car for a hobby so I lean toward the stiffer side of things.

Side note: My wife just called and said she barely saved my car. Some jack-hole swerved in front of her and slammed on their brakes. She was able to get out of the way and stay safe (thankfully). I'm not so sure the stock suspension would have faired so well. And for the first time she actually complemented the suspension on a car of mine "Your car handles really well". Of course she drives a Prius and she's not a car person at all so take that for what you will.

How are the RCE Yellows treating you?
What's you opinion of the ride in terms of stiffness/harshness?

Thanks
 

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I absolutely enjoy this setup. I was worried the yellows would be harsher than the blacks but honestly it feels better to me. Most likely that came due to the increased travel the shock has. Great for a daily driver IMHO. Of course I autocross a different car for a hobby so I lean toward the stiffer side of things.

Side note: My wife just called and said she barely saved my car. Some jack-hole swerved in front of her and slammed on their brakes. She was able to get out of the way and stay safe (thankfully). I'm not so sure the stock suspension would have faired so well. And for the first time she actually complemented the suspension on a car of mine "Your car handles really well". Of course she drives a Prius and she's not a car person at all so take that for what you will.
That's good to hear about the RCE Yellow/Bilstein setup. Glad to hear your wife escaped harm.

I think this may be my eventual suspension setup, but I'll probably add 1" spacers to get a bit more ground clearance.

Thanks for the info.
 

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hey i plan on doing the UCA swap in the rear as well. I ordered used STI UCA and i just have one question. The upper ball joints on each have no vertical movement which is good but one of them moves around a quite bit as compared to the other which is difficult to move. So which one is bad?
 

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Discussion Starter #46
My understanding is ball joints get replace when a) the boot has gotten torn and it's lost lubrication or b) there is excessive play. I'd think side to side or up and down would both be bad. For reference, the new ones I put in didn't have any play. When in doubt, drop by a friendly mechanic and ask. Good luck :D

hey i plan on doing the UCA swap in the rear as well. I ordered used STI UCA and i just have one question. The upper ball joints on each have no vertical movement which is good but one of them moves around a quite bit as compared to the other which is difficult to move. So which one is bad?
 

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Guys,

I wanted to add that if you go with a power flex rear camber kit like I did on the upper control arms it is a bit different than using the forester upper control arms. With the forester upper control arms the bushings had to be pressed out and then the power flex camber kit installed and then it would allow camber to be adjusted. The WRX control arms were different. Through trial and error I discovered that when you press the bushings out of the WRX upper control arms and install the power flex camber kit you cannot adjust it. Thus, we had to press the bushings back in to the WRX upper control arms and then install the power flex camber kit. At which time it allowed for adjustment of the camber via the camber kit.

This is the camber kit that was used. I just transferred it over from the forester control arms to the WRX control arms instead of buying a new one. You will need one of each of these so it will set you back about 250.00

http://www.mann-engineering.com/products/powerflex-adjustable-camber-rear-arm-bushings-rear


Now I am irritated because the 22mm Whiteline sway bar I ordered and installed that is non adjustable is sitting on the exhaust and causing a rattle and a lot of of vibration. You would have thought Whiteline would have put a bend in it like the OEM one had. I guess I am going to have to have the exhaust re-routed ever so slightly. If I can even do that.

I don't know if this will help anyone or not but I did mine slightly different from Nollie.

This is on a 2010 forester x

I installed the following components

2011 WRX front and rear struts and shocks with WRX springs.
2008 WRX Upper control arms with a power flex rear camber kit
Whiteline roll center adjustment kit in the front.
22mm non adjustable Whiteline sway bar in the front
19mm STI rear sway bar in the rear
Kartboy Endlinks front and rear

I did not change out the sub frame spacers or anything like that.

The WRX upper control arms I ordered were very greasy and dirty and had a small amount of rust on them. I sprayed them down and let them soak in non chlorinated brake cleaner. Once they were clean and dry and the rust and grease had come off into the bucket I primered them with rustoleum primer and then painted them with rustoleum flat black paint. I did this with a brush.



It handles really well to be perfectly honest. No more top heavy SUV feel. I am extremely happy with it. Now if I can just get rid of the exhaust rattle I will be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
It handles really well to be perfectly honest. No more top heavy SUV feel. I am extremely happy with it. Now if I can just get rid of the exhaust rattle I will be good to go.
Glad it handles well, but that stinks about the sway bar hitting the exhaust. I have stock exhaust and my sways don't hit. I'll try to crawl under there to see how close it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Here's a shot of the sway bar. Is yours a different design? I don't think skipping the spacers would get mine to hit the exhaust (but I can't be sure).

 

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Nollie you may want to put your subframe spaces back in because removing those you have now changed the angle of your driveshaft the center bearing in the shaft at a certain height to match the the subframe spacing which you have removed but did not change the center bearing height so it may cause a vibration or even wear the driveshaft quicker
Did this ever get figured out?
 

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One thing I DO want to ask about and I don't think i saw that you did it... :

Front subframe spacer removal?

Seeing as you took care of the rear, it would be nice to do front too, no?

Things i think would need to be considered are the tranny subframe orientation as the engine moves up with the subframe and then trimming of the intercooler shroud as that also encounters the raised engine...
I imagine the rear mount in the front control arms should be left Foz spec as that increases caster and anti lift properties when the front mount moves up after spacer removal.

Just some thoughts as I am pretty sure my buddy will explore this as he does his project.

Thanks!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Great thread Nollie. This was extremely helpful man. Someone suggested that my problem with the thud knocking sounds could be because of my upper rear control arms being flat. But he wasnt so sure since I have a 14FXT.

I took it to a lift and it is flat and you could see where its hitting on the frame. So now I am looking for WRX upper control arms and came across this thread. Are these really needed? 20157FG000 Support-sub frame
 

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Nollie you may want to put your subframe spaces back in because removing those you have now changed the angle of your driveshaft the center bearing in the shaft at a certain height to match the the subframe spacing which you have removed but did not change the center bearing height so it may cause a vibration or even wear the driveshaft quicker
Is this true?

A local Subaru tuner shop recently relocated my stock spacers from under the rear cross member to prevent from hitting the bump stops.

By relocating, this is what I mean ( pic below). Could someone please tell me if this changes the angle of the driveshaft? Thanks for the help!

Here's the original location of the spacer:



Here's where it was moved:

 

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Hey guys i am new to the forum. From what i read on this thread you can put wrx perches on forester struts in the front. please correct me if i read that wrong. My main question is what about the rear can i use the rear shocks and swap springs?
 

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Discussion Starter #60
One thing I DO want to ask about and I don't think i saw that you did it... :

Front subframe spacer removal?

Seeing as you took care of the rear, it would be nice to do front too, no?

Things i think would need to be considered are the tranny subframe orientation as the engine moves up with the subframe and then trimming of the intercooler shroud as that also encounters the raised engine...
I imagine the rear mount in the front control arms should be left Foz spec as that increases caster and anti lift properties when the front mount moves up after spacer removal.

Just some thoughts as I am pretty sure my buddy will explore this as he does his project.

Thanks!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I haven't gotten around to figuring out the remaining bits on the conversion. It might be rolling the dice not having all the spacers thought out, but so far I've just removed the rears. School, work, and kids have kept me from taking the fozzy apart again to explore heh. I'd love to hear what your buddy finds out while he looks into it.
 
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