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· Registered
2012 Forester 2.5X
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1,378 Posts
It really didn’t matter which hose was which but I remember reading (here or another thread - too lazy to find the post, which I bet you originally refered too) that by having the inlet at the top it may not cool as designed due to gravity or something else? But by having the inlet at the bottom the fluid is forced through cooling it as designed. Either way, I remember looking up which hardline was which and checking to see which line the fluid was flowing out of before I hooked it all up.

The 70255 supercooler is quite cool (pun ha) compared to the other cheaper made thin fin style because it has a bypass where if the fluid is too cold (based on viscosity) it allows the trans to heat it up to operating temp first before it actually starts cooling anything. Helpful mainly in colder states which I benefit from.
Great info, looking at one of these for my 2015 Forester, yes I know CVT not 4EAT, but this cooler has great specs, thanks!
 

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2005 XT AT
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21 Posts
A few years ago I installed a Mishimoto radiator on my FXT and installed a universal trans cooler on the lower left of the A/C condenser where the oil lines are located. While this worked pretty well, I eventually found that when ambient temps rose above 95 degrees and the A/C running, the engine would overheat. After a new engine, I decided to change the trans cooler and went with a Dorman 918-287 Transmission Oil Cooler. It's OEM for Ford Expedition 2006-05, Lincoln Navigator 2006-05, and Mazda CX-7 2012-07. I figured that it would be more than enough to cool a small EJ25!

The best part about this cooler is that it has all the mounts needed to install it low and behind the front bumper. Enough talk, it worked flawlessly this weekend out in the desert with 100+ temps and A/C blowing. Highly recommend!
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2005 XT AT
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21 Posts
Have any pictures with the bumper cover on? Would love to see how it looks through the lowest slot opening.
You can't see it at all with the bumper cover installed. The only thing you can see through the lower opening is the body color section just below the new cooler where the lower radiator mounts up.
 

· Registered
2007 XT
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55 Posts
I ran the same Dorman 918-287 cooler, except higher for direct airflow. Running the lines weren't terrible, just a litte tight under the hood at the hard lines but it's not kinked, so should be good! Slightly relocated the black "sensor" that turned out to be the keyless entry receiver (according to the numbers on the bracket. Removed bracked and zip tied just next to stock mounting, shouldn't effect it.
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2021 Forester Sport
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117 Posts
Old thread, I know - looking at adding a cooler to help with the added load from towing. I see all the questions about over-cooling in colder weather and reduced load, and I too wonder about that.

I wonder, why not run the lines from the transmission to the auxiliary cooler first, and then to the water cooled exchanger second ? Wouldn't this mean that engine heat would in effect regulate the CVT fluid temperature in a way, either removing still more heat if the auxiliary cooler could not do enough, or in the case of cold weather, bringing the CVT fluid back up to a normal temperature ? This would seem to me to avoid both the complexity of an oil thermostat, and the hassle of rigging some sort of block, particularly here in the mid-Atlantic shoulder seasons when it could be freezing for a day or two, then 50 to 70 over the next several days.
 

· Registered
2003 Forester
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166 Posts
Old thread, I know - looking at adding a cooler to help with the added load from towing. I see all the questions about over-cooling in colder weather and reduced load, and I too wonder about that.

I wonder, why not run the lines from the transmission to the auxiliary cooler first, and then to the water cooled exchanger second ? Wouldn't this mean that engine heat would in effect regulate the CVT fluid temperature in a way, either removing still more heat if the auxiliary cooler could not do enough, or in the case of cold weather, bringing the CVT fluid back up to a normal temperature ? This would seem to me to avoid both the complexity of an oil thermostat, and the hassle of rigging some sort of block, particularly here in the mid-Atlantic shoulder seasons when it could be freezing for a day or two, then 50 to 70 over the next several days.
This is exactly what you are supposed to do. And it has the nice side benefit of potentially pulling heat out of the coolant if that issomehow overworked and the trans fluid is still below temp.
 
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