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Write-up for installing 4EAT cooler? (merged thread)

122335 Views 107 Replies 55 Participants Last post by  BeatupVR4
Well, I got a B&M Supercooler. I'm doing everything I can to prep my car for the upgrades that are to ensue very, very soon.

Anyway, I remember on the old site there was a write-up with pics on how to install one of these suckers. However, since I'm still trying to get the old database usable again, I can't find it. Does anyone know of a write-up anywhere? I'm debating whether or not it's something I want to attempt.
TIA...
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Riff, Be careful about installing an inline filter on your trans cooler line,I have never seen it done. Unless someone makes an inline auto
trans filter to handle the flow and temp , I would stay away from it. Also your trans is equipped
with an oem filter already.

ShhhhI will try and stay as straight forward as possible about
installing an accessory trans cooler in your Suby. First off I would find
the atf outlet line on your trans. You will want to cut into that line and
attach it to the inlet or intake port of your new cooler. Then from the other port on the new cooler,the line should run into the atf radiator
port and that should do it for the hook up. For a street application you always want the atf fluid to be warmed by the engine coolant,so your trans has warm fluid to work with. If you plum it the other way your atf temp will vary with the outside temperature.
Let me know if I helped or confused you . ed
Ed,
Thanks for the reply. What I ended up doing is taking the new supplied hose(Cut it in half) and inserted it into the upper port of the Tranny Cooler. Then took the other end of the hose and inserted it into the metal line (The metal line which had a rubber hose attached, and it also attached to the passenger side of the radiator)..

Took a piece off of the New hose( the 2nd half of the new hose I cut) and stuck one end of it, to the lower port of the Tranny Cooler. I then Joined the other end to the old/oem hose which hooks on to the passenger side of the rad. (Via the supplied metal hose joiner thingamobobs lol )

Not sure if that's what you said in your own words or not, But I hope I didn't confuse you in return.
Riff, Be careful about installing an inline filter on your trans cooler line,I have never seen it done. Unless someone makes an inline auto
trans filter to handle the flow and temp , I would stay away from it. Also your trans is equipped
with an oem filter already.
There are some manufacturers who produce specifically tranny filters that are inline.
Wix filter:
[ame]http://www.amazon.de/WIX-CORPORATION-58964-LINE-TRANSMIS/dp/B0014BCFC0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453446074&sr=8-1&keywords=in-line+wix[/ame]


Can you please let me know if this radiator will fit a 2009 Subaru Forester XT and what is the ID of the tubing needed?:

Size: 5,3 x 34,8 x 28,7 cm
Weight: ~1,1 Kg

Link below to cooler #678
http://www.haydenauto.com/upload/HaydenAuto/Documents/Cat_Hayden/2007-hayden-trans-oil-coolers.pdf

HAYDEN INC. 678 TRANS OIL COOLER: Amazon.de: Auto
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So what's the correct trans cooler to purchase for my 2007 forester xt? I'm going to tackle this job very soon. Going Stage 3 this summer.
The B&M Supercooler kit shown on post #3 should work for you. Unless you're going WOT all the time or pulling a trailer, the stock AFT cooler should be fine. :wink:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
Thanks! I didn't even realize the stock FXT had a ATF cooler. If I'm going Stage 3 with a VF48 turbo would you recommend the B&M cooler as an upgrade or will my stock handle fine?
Even with Stage 3 power, you're not going to be stressing the 4EAT constantly, like towing a trailer, so your stock setup should be fine. :wink:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
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I ordered the B&M slightly thicker one to replace my crappy Mishimoto fin and tube style one. Getting it professionally installed next week. Anyone in the Socal area who has some time to help me install this I will pay $100 :)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIIDZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hey guys looking to do this to my foz. Is 350 psi hose good enough for this mod, besides cooler, clamps and lines all I really need is a double sided barb correct?


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Installed a tranny cooler...do I need to re-do the lines??

I have an 07 Subaru Forester turbo automatic. I put a B&M ATF cooler in series after the radiator heat exchanger.*

I read up on install beforehand and I saw the recommendation that the side of the cooler with fittings should be facing up or left/right. I mounted the cooler with fittings facing right.*

What I did not see was the recommendation to use the lower fitting as the inlet and the upper fitting as the outlet. I used the top fitting as the inlet and the bottom fitting as the outlet.*

Am I going to break something? Do I need to re-do the lines? Or can I get away with leaving it as-is?
I have an 07 Subaru Forester turbo automatic. I put a B&M ATF cooler in series after the radiator heat exchanger.*

I read up on install beforehand and I saw the recommendation that the side of the cooler with fittings should be facing up or left/right. I mounted the cooler with fittings facing right.*

What I did not see was the recommendation to use the lower fitting as the inlet and the upper fitting as the outlet. I used the top fitting as the inlet and the bottom fitting as the outlet.*

Am I going to break something? Do I need to re-do the lines? Or can I get away with leaving it as-is?
I can only assume from all the discussion that has already happened regarding the subject that it's the recommended setup. Will you break something? Not sure. Would I personally swap it out based on the gathered information from a reread... probably, you could try direct messaging a main poster or calling the company for tips? Gl

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I did switch the lines finally after a few days of driving it.

No difference at all lol!

From what I gather the ATF system is not an airtight sealed loop and will purge itself of air pretty quickly.

Another thing pointed out to me was that with these type of coolers (cross flow), the fluid may bypass some rows if the feed comes from the top fitting, or if both fittings are pointing downwards.

So I just fixed it for peace of mind.
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I would have done the same thing if I was you. But I think it really is just best practice - I highly doubt you would break anything or that it wouldn’t cool properly to the point of something failing.

It really didn’t matter which hose was which but I remember reading (here or another thread - too lazy to find the post, which I bet you originally refered too) that by having the inlet at the top it may not cool as designed due to gravity or something else? But by having the inlet at the bottom the fluid is forced through cooling it as designed. Either way, I remember looking up which hardline was which and checking to see which line the fluid was flowing out of before I hooked it all up.

The 70255 supercooler is quite cool (pun ha) compared to the other cheaper made thin fin style because it has a bypass where if the fluid is too cold (based on viscosity) it allows the trans to heat it up to operating temp first before it actually starts cooling anything. Helpful mainly in colder states which I benefit from.
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After sorting this out, I wish B&M would put it in the instructions for first-timers like me.

I got the medium sized one, 70268 I think, without a bypass. Sounds like a neat feature to have. But with the lines routed, an upgrade should be easy in the future.

Glad to see AC performance is not affected as far as I can see.

I hope to get temp sensors in-line soon to get some hard numbers. I plan to get temps before and after the cooler, will just splice some tees for the senders inline somewhere. Then I can see if I can benefit from an upgrade.
Does anyone have pictures of a Mishimoto trans Cooler (part # MMTC-U) installed?

I'm into finding the cleanest way possible to mount the core behind my '07 Sports bumper...

Thank you!
3
So it wasn’t a sports bumper but t was a friend’s 07 XT. I don’t know the difference between the two but I think they look similar? Mounted right on front of the condenser using the included zip tie mounts.





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So, I'd like to thank everyone that has contributed to this thread over time - you've made this an invaluable source. I recently discovered that my new 06 FXT had a radiator leak at both end-tanks. After much consideration, I decided to purchase an all aluminum Koyorad radiator. Naturally, I turned to the forum for advice on ATF cooling. I decided to purchase the B&M 70255 kit. Due to the a lot of the comments on this thread, I opted not to purchase any other supporting materials seeing as most of you said the kit included everything you needed. I'd like to add that although that may not be a incorrect statement, it may not be fully accurate. If you're considering this job, and like me, only have a basic set of tools and materials, then you will need a few other items.

Here's a set of notes I had going into this:
* I decided to forego the use of the plastic ties; the condenser is new (I recently replaced it) and couldn't bring myself to use them.
* There are probably an infinite amount of ways to strap a cooler to this car, but I wanted an option that allowed the cooler to be as close as reasonably possible to the condenser.
* I wanted the return and supply lines to run shortest possible routes, with the supply being the shortest.
* I purchased an manifold off Amazon that would be inserted into the return line and allow me to add up to 2 sensors - this was important seeing that I wanted to now monitor the temps of this new cooling system.
* It's worth adding that I've never done any work like this, so I was naturally very cautious with almost every detail.

I'll have to add some photos later, but here's what I learned about the kit:
* If your radiator isn't busted (and therefore have the time to plan/do this job), you may want to take a day before the planned work to spot the best area for install and bracket attachment. There are several positions that would allow you to attach a bolt, some are easier than others. The bolts included in the kit are of one length only; for many of these options, they're just too long (they will hit the radiator). So make sure to go to a local autoparts store and purchase an standard metric bolt kit (I had to catch an Uber to do just that).
* Also consider using various materials as brackets - the holes on the included brackets are equally spaced and will limit you. If you're concerned with the ascetics of the finished product, then you may want to paint your brackets a day or two ahead of time.
* Although I assume that the hose included in the kit is perfectly fine, I opted stainless steel/nylon braided hose which despite being tougher to cut, feels 100 times better than the standard hose included in the kit.
* B&M is a good brand, but in retrospect, I wish I would have gone with a smaller size. If you're not towing, I doubt that a cooler of this size is required.

On the plus size, I installed a manifold on the return line along with an oil temp sensor. The gauges and wiring will be installed soon. In the meantime, I have a set of OEM Lamco gauges (unplugged) sitting in the spot. Despite having an 06 - with the airbag/clock issue - I was able to dremmel-out a solution that looks nice and OEM. I guess I'll have to add information about that in another post.

Thanks again for all the input on this thread, it was extremely helpful.

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'Heads Up Gauges' :)

@rawaffle Is that gauge location factory components (housing, tray, etc...minus the gauges)? Thanks.
@rawaffle Is that gauge location factory components (housing, tray, etc...minus the gauges)? Thanks.
Yup, it's all stock - sorry for the delayed response.
In case anyone is interested. I'm selling a new Hayden automotive aux Transmission Cooler 677 in the Member Classifieds.

CA Hayden automotive aux Transmission Cooler

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