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Write-up for installing 4EAT cooler? (merged thread)

122337 Views 107 Replies 55 Participants Last post by  BeatupVR4
Well, I got a B&M Supercooler. I'm doing everything I can to prep my car for the upgrades that are to ensue very, very soon.

Anyway, I remember on the old site there was a write-up with pics on how to install one of these suckers. However, since I'm still trying to get the old database usable again, I can't find it. Does anyone know of a write-up anywhere? I'm debating whether or not it's something I want to attempt.
TIA...
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I'm not sure. I'd bet there is someone here who knows.
Does the added trans cooler need extra tranny fluid? I would think an extra 1/2 qt would fit but im not sure im about to install my b&m 70268 super cooler and was just wondering.
Thanks for the write up! I didn't find a lot of information on this topic.

I've been looking into doing some AutoX in my 2006 Forester XT, and I read that AutoX can be hard on automatic transmissions, so people recommend transmission coolers. Are any of you guys installing them for this reason, or do any of you have experiences in AutoX where your transmission was an issue due to the fluid getting too hot? I wasn't sure if the stock setup was good enough.... It's tough for me to imagine a 50-60 second run being THAT hard on your transmissions, but I could be way off base.
3
Thought I would conribute to this thread.

Just did this but didnt make it fancy like some of you did with a gauge and all. I probably should have but I think it will be fine. Just a note for noobs doing this install.. If you are doing the koyo/mishimoto radiator and adding a trans cooler you dont really have to be concerned with the return line or feed line unless you are installing a temp gauge or adding to a stock radiatior. Just connect one line to one end of the cooler and another line to the other end of the cooler.

Here is how mounted mine. I like the clean look of it.


Here is everything done and put back together.

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The trans oil return line is the same for an SH ('09+) as well.

If there is any doubt try this:

The best way to determine which line on a transmission cooler is the return line from the radiator is to use the following procedure:

1. Start engine while engine is cold
2. Place transmission shift lever in drive for no more than 10 seconds
3. Place in Park, stop engine, and remove keys
4. Identify the oil return line by feeling both oil lines. The coolest line is the oil return line.
Just wanted to reiterate myself here.
The best way I found to confirm the return and supply line was to remove both soft lines from the hard lines on the lower drivers side, run the engine briefly and observed which hard line puked fluid. In my case, it was the most forward hard line.

In the photo above, the return line for my 2010 was indeed the longer soft line but was connected to the rear positioned hard line on the lower driver's side and not the front as shown. I believe SuperRu's Foz was an '04 btw so that's prolly the difference otherwise it looks very similar to a '10 model.
sorry, at work and have no time to read thread.
I have a B&M Tranny Cooler. and am installing a new radiator.
Should I bypass the radiator's built in tranny cooler and use only B&M,
Or should I run them in series? If so which one should be first in line?
Take a look at this post in this thread. :wink:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
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I just wanted to add to this thread a bit and say how useful it was for installing a cooler on my 2011 2.5X.
This single post in another thread was also very helpful to me. Also, @SubieOutlaw 's bumper removal thread is helpful. The pictogram instructions included with my Sports grille were also somewhat useful.

I've attached some photos too; blue coloring denotes the original return line / the nozzle where the original return line was plugged in, and green denotes where I used the hose included in the B&M 70255 kit. As a side note, I trimmed and sanded the B&M brackets with a cut-off wheel to make them more to my liking.

I just unplugged the original return line from the nozzle, pulled it out from its guiding clips and attached it to the bottom of the cooler (line was trimmed). Then, I routed the new hose from the nozzle to the top of the cooler. Getting the new hose on the nozzle was very challenging - make sure to lube up the nozzle and new hose with ATF-HP (I used some of what spilled out into my pan).

I would love to reassemble my car; however, I was a moron and bought Subaru Coolant instead of ATF-HP (and everything is closed for the 4th, and all the dealers nearby are closed Sundays). The tranny dipstick said the fluid level was ok, but I did get quite a bit of fluid on my arms and on the ground. So, I'm leaving the front clip in pieces until I get some ATF-HP and run the car for a bit to make sure all my lines and clamps are holding.


Also, I would definitely recommend safety glasses / goggles (better) for this job, and it would've made my life a lot easier had I cleaned my car beforehand.

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Thanks for this(As well as the OP). I thought about doing this to my SH as well but saw that the instructions were originally for the SG.
Just read through all of this thread looking to see how easy the install would be on my own - I think I could handle it - however, my car is already with a shop having a new Koyo radiator put in, so I figured I would just let them take care of it all at once. My question, however, is about how long it took everyone to do this install?

The shop wants to charge me 3.5 hours of labor @ $100/hr to install a Long Tru-Cool 4452 and it looks like an hour job at most. Not sure how to approach this with them if it really doesn't require that much time.
The shop is charging you for their learning process, If this is something they have done before and they know what they are doing, I would think about an hour job. I have a grille that comes out very easy and it was a 45 minute job. Tapped into the line near the washer reservoir.
I'm all about the learning process, but not for a Subaru specific shop, on my dime...

I might ask them about this, because $350 could be put to much better use elsewhere. They also want to charge me $200 to put in a new fuel pump. I feel like I'm getting jerked around.
Maybe they had a hard time lifting up the back seat?
true @Raycfe. one time it was so hot out, and i was doing that. i was like,"gosh, its hot." then i finished. the trick is knowing what side goes up.
I'd recommend against paying them $350 for an install.
I don't have much experience and messing with auto fluids and drivetrain stuff makes me worried, but I did my install and a drain/fill on the tranny (I only did one, but it still made quite a difference, I'll probably start doing 1 per year or so), and everything is holding up fine.

I made my install take a while, but most of that time was spent thinking/looking around and grinding out my brackets to get rid of excess material (not at all required for install). If I was focused and decisive, it could've easily been done in less than 1.5hr.
I just wanted to add to this thread a bit and say how useful it was for installing a cooler on my 2011 2.5X.
This single post in another thread was also very helpful to me. Also, @SubieOutlaw 's bumper removal thread is helpful. The pictogram instructions included with my Sports grille were also somewhat useful.

I've attached some photos too; blue coloring denotes the original return line / the nozzle where the original return line was plugged in, and green denotes where I used the hose included in the B&M 70255 kit. As a side note, I trimmed and sanded the B&M brackets with a cut-off wheel to make them more to my liking.

I just unplugged the original return line from the nozzle, pulled it out from its guiding clips and attached it to the bottom of the cooler (line was trimmed). Then, I routed the new hose from the nozzle to the top of the cooler. Getting the new hose on the nozzle was very challenging - make sure to lube up the nozzle and new hose with ATF-HP (I used some of what spilled out into my pan).

I would love to reassemble my car; however, I was a moron and bought Subaru Coolant instead of ATF-HP (and everything is closed for the 4th, and all the dealers nearby are closed Sundays). The tranny dipstick said the fluid level was ok, but I did get quite a bit of fluid on my arms and on the ground. So, I'm leaving the front clip in pieces until I get some ATF-HP and run the car for a bit to make sure all my lines and clamps are holding.

Also, I would definitely recommend safety glasses / goggles (better) for this job, and it would've made my life a lot easier had I cleaned my car beforehand.
Thank you so much for posting your pictures. I had mine mounted in an inferior fashion until I saw your pics. I was able to change my mounting and even got 3-point mounting accomplished, by also using the bottom left flange and additional hardware I had lying around. Very sturdy.

The link you shared was also very helpful for how to reuse the long factory hose and routing of all the hoses - I was able to route the hoses all through the factory guides prior to even disconnecting any hose. Very clean with minimal fluid loss.

Just wanted to say thanks, man, it helped me very much with my install.
Great thread! I will be installing one in my 07 xt soon :)
Bringing back an old thread but I had a question. I'm looking to purchase the b&m supercooler along with the mishimoto rad for my 2004 fxt auto. Has anyone installed it on that specific rad? Or just the plastic Koyo? Is the mishimoto worth the extra 150$? Thanks for your help guys.
What's the ID of the AT flexible tube near the cooler?

I have not took apart the front end etc so no idea about the correct tubes needed. I also want to install a in-line oil filter, so far have seen ~8mm and ~19mm filter in\outlet...
Okay guys, I am in the process of installing the B&M supercooler (PN# 70255) on my SH XT. wanted to reiterate from someone who has done this on their SH, that the only hose I have to remove is the existing (Longer hose)one, then insert it into the lower port of the Cooler.
Then grab the B&M supplied rubber hose and insert one end onto the upper Port of the B&M cooler and grab the other end of that hose and stick it(For a lack of a better word) into the metal hose the which housed the hose originally removed.. :confused::confused:
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