[James]

How did you do your temp manifold w/sensor? I need to move my temp sender from the pan to make room for a Fumoto drain valve.

How much is a Transmission Temp Sensor? I just ordered a Brake Controller, Hitch, Wiring Harness, and Transmission Cooler. A temp sensor would be nice, but I an not sure how much more I want to spend at this point.

PS. What does a gauge look like? (Post Pics of your gauge and location) I already have a Scan Gauge and GPS mounted to the dash, and am running out of room on the dash...

 

[James]

I purchased mine a while ago from
VDO Gauges from egauges.com

Thanks SuperRu. Did you buy that Dash Gauge cluster/Mount (whatever you call it) at this site too? It would be nice to mount my Scan Gauge IN the dash, instead of ON the dash, so it less inviting to theft.

Also another question. I noticed when I start my Forester, one of the indicators on the dash is "AT Temp". I assume that this is the Automatic Transmission Temperature warning light. Correct me if I am wrong. Anyways, if the Forester already has a Temperature sensor, can I tap into that to get a live display?

James

 

[James]

Two Questions:

What do you guys think about mounting a Temp sensor on the OUTSIDE of the Transmission. I can scavenge thermal couple from work and the transducer. I would just need a Gauge then.


I bought a new Transmission cooler at add to my car. Would it be better to run the Tranny oil though the New Cooler then the OEM cooler? Or the other way around.

 

[James]

I then tie-wrapped the manifold to a bracket used for the hard trans fluid pipes (just above the first splice).
I'll snap some photos of the setup when I get a chance.

Any Photos yet of the Temp Sensor. Got my Trany cooler in the mail today. I want to buy a temp gauge before I install. Need everything in place by July (camping trip).

 

[James]

I installed mine in the drain plug. Similar to how the OEM oil temp sensor is installed.

Do you know off hand the thread size of the drain plug? I will try to order a gauge that comes with a sender tonight, and will probably need an adapter.

Thanks so much.

 

[James]

I was looking at the OEM Gauge Pod. Does it replace the digital clock? I would like to keep the clock. And those Gauge clocks are EXPENSIVE? $80~$125 for a clock?

 

[James]

I am a little Leary of using the supplied "Quick mounting hardware" fro my Tranny Cooler. Strapping one radiator to the other?!? Sounds like a bad idea to me.

I am in the middle of making my own mounting bars, that line up with existing holes. Will post Pictures when I am done.

[Edit]
My cooler (from eTrailer.com) didn't come with the metal brackets that the "Super Cooler" that some others on this thread bought. That would have made it easy to mount. I wouldn't be making my own brackets right now. In that respect the "Super Cooler" would have been a better buy.

 

[James]

I just used the supplied mounting hardware (the plastic strips with the locking discs). It attaches the cooler VERY securely, and given that there's nothing thats going to strain them I really think it's a waste of time/money going to the trouble of fabricating a "better" mounting solution.

Where I work, plastic strips and cable ties like these break constantly. Like 20-30 a week. Even ones with no load break; Some even break just looping it back on itself. That is one reason I do not trust them. To be fair, I don't work in the usual environment. The room is regulated to 72F (~22C), but at less than 2% humidity. But in any case the plastic has to break at some point, especially with all that heating and cooling.

True making metal brackets takes longer, but I know it will last many times longer and under more harsher conditions. Anyways, I am waiting for the Temp Sensor first, so I can see before and after effects of the Cooler. As for Money, I am using scrap from work, so it is free.

The plastic strips may last the whole time you own your car, maybe not; but when I look at mine I can say that the brackets will last 40 years or more.

 

[James]

m20 x 1.5

I bought a Temp Gauge that came with a 1/8 NPT Sender, but I am having a heck of a time finding a M20 bushing or adapter. Where should I be looking?

eGauges has a Metric Bushing Kit, but it only goes up to M18.

 

[James]

A local machine shop should be able to drill and tap your drain plug for the sendor.

In that case I might be able to do it at work. I am pretty sure we have M20 hex bolt at work (although I'd probably have to cut it to length). The main thing would be if the Machine shop at work has a 1/8 NPT tap I could borrow.

I would prefer to Buy one. I did find one online source, in England, that has the M20 to 1/8 NPT. Seems weird to have to go all the way out there for a Metric Adapter, living in Canada and all.

 

[James]

I'd suggest using a drain plug rather than a regular bolt. It has the flange for the gasket. BTW, the oil pan and tranny drain plugs are the same.

True about the Flange. I will see if I can get my hands on the Tap. I am thinking it would be a good idea to buy a second drain plug first, just in case.

 

[James]

My new Drain Plug

So I go to the Local Auto Part store. (Lordco Auto Parts - Home Page which is suppose to be BC's largest auto parts chain)

Me: "I was wondering if you have a Transmission Drain Plug for a Subaru Forester. It is an M20 x 1.5."
Parts Guy: "What is the make and year?"
Me: "Subaru Forester, an 2007."
Parts Guy after looking on his computer: "The drain plug size isn't in the computer. You'd have to find out the size from the Dealer."
Me: "But I know the size. It is an M20 with a 1.5 mm Thread pitch."
Parts Guy: "That doesn't matter."
Me: "What do you mean that doesn't matter?!?"
Parts Guy: "They don't make Drain Plugs that big. An M20 would be huge."
Me: "...well that is the size it is suppose to be. Could you check to see what you have?"
Parts Guy walks off and comes back a 2 minutes later: "This is the biggest we have."
Me: "This it is. It says right here Subaru Oil/Transmission Drain Plug. It even says M20 x 1.5."
Parts Guy: "Oh."

Anyways, the shop at work did have the 1/8 NPT tap. So I did the drilling and tapping myself. It is ever so slightly off center, but I am not machinist.

I tapped about 1/3, I didn't want to go too deep and over enlarge the Taper of the thread. A good thing because I nearly bottomed out the sender when it came time to cinch it down. I also enlarged 2/3rds of the hole from the other side to give clearance around the sender. The Sender unit is sealed with Teflon Tape. I am not sure how the Teflon stands up to the heat and oil, although I don't think it should matter either way with the NPT thread. The Sender has a grounding wire, so grounding will not be a problem.

Finally I put a few layers of Heat Shrink (increasing in Diameter each time), so give some protection.

So the Drain plug was $6. Drilling and Taping free. I would not recommend trying to tap an NPT if you are not confident about your taping skills. The tapered threads make it more difficult than regular threads.

 

[James]

Just wanted to update. The Original Temp Gauge and Sender I bought (from the US) didn't work. So I am sending it back. Since I am renting a Tent Trailer in a couple weeks for our Vacation, I needed a replacement quick. I bought an Autometer Cobalt full sweep Trans Temp gauge at the local auto store ($150CND). The install went pretty quickly other than having to remove the bad sender to put the Stock drail plug in again, then swap the stock plug back out to put the Autometer sender in.

I want to run the new temp gauge for a while before I pipe in the new Tranny cooler. The first run tonight, the gauge peaked out at 138 F going up hill, but most of the time it was running at 130 F. The outside temp was 15 C (59 F).

I will probably plug in the Cooler on Sunday, to see what the Temp Difference is.

 

[James]

So I am back from my Trip. I rented a Tent Trailer with a GVWR of 2330 lbs. It weighs 2100lbs (including options) unloaded. When you add my gear, we where probably under 2300 lbs. My Transmission temp sender is in the drain plug.

Without the added cooler, Not towing the Tranny Temp was running (outside Temp 70-75f)
130-138F at speed (45 mph and faster) on the hills.
140-150F in stop and go traffic.
145F Stopped (Idle for 30 minutes) which is what is stated in my manual.

With the added cooler, not towing the Tranny Temp was (outside Temp 70-75F)
110-120F at Speed on the Hills.
135-145F in stop and go traffic.
140F Stopped.

Note that the Cooler is not effective when not moving or moving slowly. I expected this.

With the added cooler, towing the Tent Trailer the Tranny Temp was (outside temp 80F)
115-155F at Speed Through the mountain range.
140-160F in stop and go traffic.
140F Stopped.

At the highest temp the gauge never went over 160F. This was along Highway 4 (Pacific Rim Highway) on Vancouver Highway and it was 27-28C outside (80+F), the temp shot up as we hit the traffic lights in towns we passed through. Although the summit is only a mere 1230 ft, the highway goes up and down a lot (up to 10-12% grade in areas), and is very narrow and winding.

I will try to get pics of the Cooler installed next week.

 

[James]

Here is some pics of my Cooler Install. Basically the same as SuperRu and others. My Cooler it like the 'SuperCooler' one but didn't come with any metal mounting brackets.

I made a three piece mounting system (shown here). One long bar that will go across the top. The smaller bar will mount on the bottom. The 'Z' shaped (offset) bar attaches between the long bar and the rubber mount for the condenser.

This shows the 'Z' piece installed. As I said, I bolted to the rubber mount of the Condenser. It is bent so that it is parallel to the other mounting surface in the center. This is because the Rubber mount sticks out father than the center bar. I attached a long bolts so the threads suck outward. This was to make the next step in the install easier. All the mounting locations I used were pre-existing.

The smaller bar is to go from the bottom of the cooler to the bracket that holds the 'Outside Temp' sensor (I think). I popped off the Temp sensor and put a bolt here like above.

The two bars that attach to the cooler are set up like this.

Here is the top of the installed cool.

This is the bottom. I reattached the Temp sensor to one of the holes in my mounting bar.

So there you have it. The Rest of the install, attaching the pipping, is the same as everyone else. Here is a couple of photos.

Before: This is the view from by the front wheel well. I had to take the small cover (in front of the wheel well) off here to access the OEM hose clamp.

After: This is the new hoses attached. Viewed from under the engine.

 

[James]

I (and most people who have done this) just connect the new line to the old one. So essentially I have two coolers in series (the stock and the Aux). It is probably easier this way too.