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2014 Forester Manual Trans - the only way to go!!!!!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good Afternoon-

My head's a bit spun up from researching wiring up auxiliary lights - can anybody out there set me straight? In the past i've always wired driving lights so they're always 'hot' (can be turned on even when the car is off) and figure i should set these up properly this time

Goal #1 : Wire up a set of Hella 500's so they turn off when the car is switched off yet be able to switch them on whether the parking lights, low beams or high beams are on. It's my responsibility as a driver to choose when to use them and not blind oncoming traffic....i hate the nanny attached to the OEM fog lights so they only come on with the low beams.

I'll be using the relay that came with the kit but will be using 14ga wire and a new fancy switch that amused me.

Goal #2 - get rid of the OEM fog light nanny (see above)... I'd like to rewire them to work independently of the headlights. I'm assuming i change where the lights get power from....


I haven't found a wiring diagram for the 2014 Forester yet....driving a 2.5i premium if that makes a difference.....

Thanks!
 

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2014 XTP Fancy Rubber Band
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1,124 Posts
Here's how you could make the Fogs come on regardless of lighting selection (the logic is controlled by the BCM (body integrated unit):
Screenshot_2014-08-15-20-23-20.jpg
Screenshot_2014-08-15-20-35-27.jpg
On plug A of the BIU, cut and insulate the BIU side of pin #15 (violet/yellow)
Splice the cut end of plug A pin 15 into plug B pin #26 (red/yellow) also put an isolating diode on the BIU side of the splice between the BIU and the splice.

This will now allow the foglight switch to control the fog relay directly, however permit the foglight logic to correctly display the foglight symbol on the instro panel. However, since the BIU thinks it is turning off the fogs under highbeam, the symbol will go away when the highbeams are on. The diode prevents the relay from being triggered thru the BIU if the fog switch is off. I have not performed this procedure yet, so there are no photos. Also, be aware you are messing with BIU inputs, its your responsibility to ensure you wire it correctly and check your work with a multimeter.

Of note, the +12 side of the relay comes on anytime the tailight circuit is switched on, so the fogs will turn off if the lights are turned off, they will not stay on if the lights are turned off.
 

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2006 Forester automatic
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3 Posts
Led Off Road Driving Lights

Hi, I recently bought some Cree LED Off Road Driving Lights for my 2006 Forester, with an after market wiring kit with switch, relay & fuse holder included.
I mounted the lights up on number plate bracket that you can mount driving lights on, wired it all up connected the red wire from my dash switch to the red wire on the back of the H3 high beam globe.
Then connected the rest of the wires to the relay.
The red wire with the fuse in it to the battery No 30 on the relay, the connected the wire from No 85 on the relay to the other side of my dash switch.
Then connected the wire from No 87 on the relay to the LED light bar & earthed the black wire from the light bar to the battery.
Now this is where I went wrong for a while, I tried connecting No 86 on the relay to earth on the battery or the body of the car.
This made the LED lights work when the ignition & head lights were on low or high beam, the only way I could turn the LEDS off was to turn the ignition off or the dash switch for the LED lights of the head light switch.
I worked it out in the end though, you have to wire No 86 on the relay to the black wire on the back of the H3 high beam globe.
This the allowed me to turn the LED lights off & on with the high beam as per our state laws.
Sorry for the long drawn out explanation, tried to put every detail I could think of to help you.:woohoo:
 

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2014 XTP Fancy Rubber Band
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1,124 Posts
Hi, I recently bought some Cree LED Off Road Driving Lights for my 2006 Forester, with an after market wiring kit with switch, relay & fuse holder included.
I mounted the lights up on number plate bracket that you can mount driving lights on, wired it all up connected the red wire from my dash switch to the red wire on the back of the H3 high beam globe.
Then connected the rest of the wires to the relay.
The red wire with the fuse in it to the battery No 30 on the relay, the connected the wire from No 85 on the relay to the other side of my dash switch.
Then connected the wire from No 87 on the relay to the LED light bar & earthed the black wire from the light bar to the battery.
Now this is where I went wrong for a while, I tried connecting No 86 on the relay to earth on the battery or the body of the car.
This made the LED lights work when the ignition & head lights were on low or high beam, the only way I could turn the LEDS off was to turn the ignition off or the dash switch for the LED lights of the head light switch.
I worked it out in the end though, you have to wire No 86 on the relay to the black wire on the back of the H3 high beam globe.
This the allowed me to turn the LED lights off & on with the high beam as per our state laws.
Sorry for the long drawn out explanation, tried to put every detail I could think of to help you.:woohoo:
Nice explanation for your model year (welcome to the forum BTW), however this would not work on a 2014 Forester - they are wired completely different. The high beams on a 2014 utilize negative switching, meaning the lights are constantly connected to a 12v source anytime the ignition is on and the low beams are not on. The ground toggles between the DRL resistor and a direct ground for highbeams.
 

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2014 forester Premium CVT
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52 Posts
Nice explanation for your model year (welcome to the forum BTW), however this would not work on a 2014 Forester - they are wired completely different. The high beams on a 2014 utilize negative switching, meaning the lights are constantly connected to a 12v source anytime the ignition is on and the low beams are not on. The ground toggles between the DRL resistor and a direct ground for highbeams.
I was reading all this, I don't have fog lights, just interested and looking under the hood at my setup, there is no resistor. My DRL's are the low beams. When I switch to low beams with my switch, the low beam is the DRL at the same brightness, but a little light located between the high and low bulbs turns on. With high beam turned on, the outer bright bulbs light up, the inner low beam bulbs turn off and the little center bulb stays on.
Has there been a change in early and later 2014's?
 

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2018 2.5i Premium CVT
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19,203 Posts
Nice explanation for your model year (welcome to the forum BTW), however this would not work on a 2014 Forester - they are wired completely different. The high beams on a 2014 utilize negative switching, meaning the lights are constantly connected to a 12v source anytime the ignition is on and the low beams are not on. The ground toggles between the DRL resistor and a direct ground for highbeams.
SF and SG Foresters (1998-2008) also employed low side switching. It appears that only the SH series (2009-2013) went the other way.
 

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2014 Forester XT Touring CVT
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12,785 Posts
I was reading all this, I don't have fog lights, just interested and looking under the hood at my setup, there is no resistor. My DRL's are the low beams. When I switch to low beams with my switch, the low beam is the DRL at the same brightness, but a little light located between the high and low bulbs turns on. With high beam turned on, the outer bright bulbs light up, the inner low beam bulbs turn off and the little center bulb stays on.
Has there been a change in early and later 2014's?
I am thoroughly confused.

Your innermost light is your high beam. This is also your DRL bulb, just at a 20% illumination.

The small bulb, in the upper corner of that housing is the "city light" or "position light" which is essentially a parking light used in Europe. It will be on anytime your amber corner lights are on.

The outer headlight bulb is your low beam. It should be on only when your headlights are on, both in the low beam and high beam setting.

See attachment.
 

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2014 forester Premium CVT
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52 Posts
I am thoroughly confused.

Your innermost light is your high beam. This is also your DRL bulb, just at a 20% illumination.

The small bulb, in the upper corner of that housing is the "city light" or "position light" which is essentially a parking light used in Europe. It will be on anytime your amber corner lights are on.

The outer headlight bulb is your low beam. It should be on only when your headlights are on, both in the low beam and high beam setting.

See attachment.
Yes! I see it now, after running in and out of the car. I sometimes wish I had my 1950 Ford 6cyl flat head coupe back. I guess it's hard for a manufacturer to build a car that complies with the rules of dozens of counties. Thanks
 

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2014 Forester Manual Trans - the only way to go!!!!!
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
https://flic.kr/p/oApJbW

Status update:

I have most the wiring complete - but can't for the life of me find a place to run a wire through the fire wall to the switch - any thoughts? I have a 2014 2.5i Premium 6mt....


also, any clue on how to remove the lower switch panel? I'd like to place my switch where the bottom arrow is....I don't see a clear way to remove the entire switch panel (upper arrow)


....will work on embedding photos later...over frustrated with flikr at the moment
 

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2014 XTP Fancy Rubber Band
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To run the wire thru the firewall, take a look above the gas pedal. There is a small round open grommet there, it is kinda high (just above end of the carpet padding). If you look in some of the other threads there are pics (see my non-jdm DRLs installed thread).

As far as the switch panel goes, taking a guess but I'd be pretty sure it snaps in from the front to that lower dash pad. There are others who have installed a switch there, I know @MikeMT has, so perhaps he can help u there.
 

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2014 Forester Manual Trans - the only way to go!!!!!
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I managed to get the wire through the grommet hole (finally) and am good there. Managed to push the grommet through the wall and its stuck between the insulation and the fire wall.....will need to order a new one >=[ Is there a list of part numbers out for the SJ's yet?

I'll have to contact MikeMT....still haven't figured out how to get the panel out. thanks again for the help FishingFoz!
 

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2014 XTP Fancy Rubber Band
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It looks like that dash area just pops out, after removing the screw inside the cover in the door jamb. I have not removed it before, however here is what's in the FSM. Screenshot_2014-08-24-11-31-18.jpg
Screenshot_2014-08-24-11-31-56.jpg
Screenshot_2014-08-24-11-31-35.jpg
 

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2014 Forester XT Touring CVT
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282 Posts
Bingo!

Its easy.

Once you disconnect the wiring you can remove the switch panel from the dash panel via a couple more screws.
 

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2015 XT-P
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I got my LED long range driving lights mounted and wired that they can turn on & off with a temporary 12 volt wire going from the aux light relay to the car battery, not too convenient, but good enough for getting them aimed. My aux lights came with a wiring harness and relay that sends power from the battery to the lights when triggered by the harnesses SPST 4 wire relay. Since the 2015 Forester high beams are always supplied with 12 volt power and the ground is switched, would I be able to supply the relays ground from the black wire going to the high beam bulb and have it work as the trigger switch? I hate to strip the headlight feed wire insulation if that is a wrong approach. I would take the relays 12 + power from the battery, same as the supply for the lights if the high beam ground wire feeding the relay -if tapping into the negative high beam wire would do the trick. I guess the aux lights might power up in DRL mode too that way, a ground is a ground, but at least they would be off when only the low beams are on.
 

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2014 XTP Fancy Rubber Band
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I got my LED long range driving lights mounted and wired that they can turn on & off with a temporary 12 volt wire going from the aux light relay to the car battery, not too convenient, but good enough for getting them aimed. My aux lights came with a wiring harness and relay that sends power from the battery to the lights when triggered by the harnesses SPST 4 wire relay. Since the 2015 Forester high beams are always supplied with 12 volt power and the ground is switched, would I be able to supply the relays ground from the black wire going to the high beam bulb and have it work as the trigger switch? I hate to strip the headlight feed wire insulation if that is a wrong approach. I would take the relays 12 + power from the battery, same as the supply for the lights if the high beam ground wire feeding the relay -if tapping into the negative high beam wire would do the trick. I guess the aux lights might power up in DRL mode too that way, a ground is a ground, but at least they would be off when only the low beams are on.
See here: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f85/how-aux-lamp-output-controlled-highbeams-374313/
 
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