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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
how do i go about replacing my windshield bought one at a junkyard and need help in findin all the stuff i need to put the windshield onto my subie please helpanyway u can would greatly appriciate it

can anybody tell me about how to go about replacin a windshield for my 04 subaru dorrester
 

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2019 3.6R & 98 Forester Atlanta, GA
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I have never heard of anyone doing it themselves with modern windshields. It takes a load of specialized equipment and training. Years ago we could do it when windshields had rubber gaskets. I've done a few of those.
 

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2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
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@danny998 I watched the technician install the replacement windshield on my '07 FSXT & it took some serious skills! I was impressed enough to write a letter to his company, expressing my complete satisfaction with his work! I also gave him a pretty good tip. :wink:

You can view my write up here in my Member Journal: Windshield replaced!

Good luck with your project! :icon_eek:

► Disclaimer - always verify any information you read on the internet! The documents below are from the Subaru technical service manual, but it's not exactly how the technician installed the replacement windshield on my Forester.

Bobby...




 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well the guide helped and il use it as reference to replace the windshield i can enlist my family to help me and i think the 2of us can actually get it in and ill save the instructionsu put on the site for reference

i actually found a cheap way to replace my windshield on youtube its actually not that bad i bought the cuttin tool off walmart.com and with my brother and father to help me i might be able to pull it off i saved the video to my adobe app and will view it again once i have the tool and am ready to do it but thnxs for all ur help really ppriciated it
 

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When I don't do my own repair, I like to be educated on how the repair is... should be done. When I had the windshield replaced on my Forester, I watched technician do every step & I asked lots of questions. :biggrin:

The odds are pretty good the glass will crack when it's being removed.

The technician placed protective blue painters tape in specific areas to prevent damaging the paint while removing & installing the new glass.

One thing that MUST be done is the application of a primer. This prepares the surfaces for the sealant. I still recall the smell of this primer... VERY strong! The primer also seals any areas where the paint was scraped off, even rusty areas. All of the old sealant can't be removed, so this primer assures the new sealant will adhere to the remaining old sealant. This primer is expensive, 3M 08682 Single Step Primer, around $20 for 30 ml!

The technician used a special power sealant applicator. Unlike caulking, the sealant was applied in a pyramid shape, with an elongated tip, all around the vehicle glass bedding surface.

A new rubber molding must be installed on the windshield before it's installed, as the sealant also adheres to this rubber trim. It's impossible to replace that rubber molding, once the windshield in installed!

If the windshield has wiper heaters, that need to be disconnected & reconnected when the new glass is installed.

Bobby...
 

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Wiper heaters? I thought the Subies used air from the ducts towards the windshield?? Does anyone have a service diagram for this wiper heater? It’s news to me. Do the 15 Foresters have wiper heaters or just certain models?? Thanks
 

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Good Luck!

@danny998 It's not a job for the weak or faint hearted, that's for sure. I replaced the windshield on my 9-year old Hyundai Excel around 20+ years ago and it took a lot of work.

Tools:
The more the better. The windshield knife cutter tool is pretty good for starters. I used a tool similar to the Summit Racing W80641. I also used a fine-tooth hacksaw blade (here and there) if I remember correctly. The piano wire tool looks good (theoretically) but that urethane sealer is VERY tough. I saw an air-powered oscillating tool on the internet today ($90) that looks like a better option if you plan on doing this more than once.

My windshield cracked during removal and came out in pieces. It took a lot of time and effort to scrape all the little bits of old urethane and glass off of the window frame. I probably used a combination of utility knives, wood chisels and other sharp objects in my tool box.

Yes - the hack saw blade scratched the window frame a little, but the flexible blade was helpful in a few places where the windshield cutter was having trouble. Did I mention this was a 9-year old Hyundai? A little masking tape probably would have helped.

Installation1:
That "professional" urethane windshield sealer was way above my budget and not readily available at my local auto parts suppliers. (No internet back then.) I used a high grade, clear silicone sealant from my local Home Depot with the expectation that this was likely a PERMANENT solution. Five years later - no windshield leaks. (Oil leaks were a different matter.) Urethane is likely more flexible and better for this job, but silicone was my only option.

Installation2:
My windshield was small by today's standards, so two people would make the job 4 times easier today. Most important, make sure that you install the small standoff/spacers correctly on the body or else the windshield might go on half cocked. When you install the sealant, it must ALWAYS be taller than the standoffs or else you WILL have leaks. Most modern windshield have a blackout area around the edges which allows you to be more generous with the sealant and the excess won't show.

If you use OEM type sealant, follow the instructions. If you go the Home Depot route, give it 2-3 days (If you can.) before driving. Either way - don't slam the doors closed for the first day. Leave the windows cracked a bit so that door-closing doesn't blow out any weak spots in the sealant.
 

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Wiper heaters? I thought the Subies used air from the ducts towards the windshield?? Does anyone have a service diagram for this wiper heater? It’s news to me. Do the 15 Foresters have wiper heaters or just certain models?? Thanks
over here they have this electric heating of underwipers area, (there is no winter package option here) my 15' 2.0i does and my 16' 2.0D as well.
to know if you have it just look at the area where the wipers rest on the windscreen when turned off: if you have it then you'll see the heating elements (same type as the ones on rear window) on a black background... if you don't see them then you don't have it :)
When you pull the windscreen out the connector is at the bottom (i'm at my third one replaced I watched the 'specialists' do it) there are pieces to take off that very easily break... as a matter of fact they had to replaces all pins that hold the underwiper palstic guard, and the two little pieces that cover the bottom corners of windshield... and change one windshield again because they tried to re use old rubber gasket at top of windscreen... no success if it is not new it is messy


edit: and to test the heating element, you have to turn it on, but if not cold outside it wont turn on... you have to force it by a long press on the button, then the light flashes and goes on in forced heating then you feel the heat by hand touching the glass around wipers
 

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It should be also noted that vehicles with bonded windshields, or any other bonded component(s) to the chassis /car body, are structural members of the vehicle. The nature of the adhesives used and the tools required to remove them and the fact that the glass does not very often survive the removal process is the give away. Note also that in high speed head on crashes the bonded windshield, no mater how shattered, largely remains attached to the body of the vehicle depending on the extent of overall damage.

Therefore, using any type of non approved adhesive, especially anything purchased at the local hardware store / big box store to install a bonded windshield is, well, foolish. With respect. Your car is neither a leaking fish tank nor a cheap worn out vinyl double hung window.
 
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