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Premium Member
2008 Forester Cross Sport AUTO
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4,623 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The following Formats what is the Difference please?

1) A Reconditioned engine.

2) An Engine Rebuild.

3) A Part Rebuild. (Self explanatory I guess but what do you get for this?)

4) A new Engine. (pretty obvious really)

What do you get for your money & most importantly of all what would you look at If it was your money?
The reason I ask is, regretfully, I'm NOT going to break 10/10ths record.

After the rebuilt Turbo (going great AET top blokes).


I'm still burning/usng oil when I boot it.

Nowhere near as bad as before the Oils Seals were replaced on the Blower.

It's got to be Piston Rings/ or something like that???

There is NOT a drop of Oil on the Drive.

Had it up on the Ramp, NOTHING leaking anywhere so, I guess it's a tired old Fozzie engine.

142,000 miles in 4 years.

It was an Ex Main Stealer Demonstrator with 5,000 miles on the clock and, I suppose it had an "interesting" start to life.

I'm not saying I haven't given it an"intersting" time also.

Oh by the way, there is a 2 Litre XT engine with 5,000 miles on the clock in the equation.

What option would you boys go for?

Thanks for yer input.

Regards



AM
 

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JDM Foz [sold]
2016 Mercedes E220 AMG Auto
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4,385 Posts
Bad news mate.

I'm having a little problem with mine at the moment as its using water, i'm hoping its one of the hoses or the rad after a little excursion into deep now and it getting in and under the rad. However it might be the headgasket as I cannot no matter how hard or where I look find any water leakage!

So to answer your question. if I was in your boots and was going to keep the car, i'd go for a full rebuild.
 

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Registered
2008 LL Bean (4EAT)
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4,784 Posts
The following Formats what is the Difference please?
1) A Reconditioned engine.
2) An Engine Rebuild.
3) A Part Rebuild. (Self explanatory I guess but what do you get for this?)
4) A new Engine. (pretty obvious really)...
A reconditioned engine is one that has been completely rebuilt by the manufacturer or more likely a remote independent facility specializing in this work. Your engine is taken in exchange as a "core", and you are given a reconditioned engine that someone else sent in.

An engine rebuild means extensive repairs were done by a dealer or independent shop, such as bearings, pistons, heads, etc.

A part rebuild is a reconditioning, same as for an engine. Most of the parts you buy in an auto store are reconditioned, such as starter, alternator, fuel pump, etc.

A new engine comes from the manufacturer, either as a short or long block. Short block lacks heads, and both lack the peripheral systems such as cooling, fuel, electrical.
 

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Registered
2014 CVT
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824 Posts
cost wise, your best bet is a reconditioned, for the most part they come with a warranty, and are pretty much good as new. the best way in my mind would be a new long or short block, depending on what is wrong with the engine you have now, it is just going to cost you. it also depends on who is doing the work and where you get it from, in my mind the best place will be a dealer, being that the reconditioned engine is going to be built by a subaru approved shop, and of course if you with new, you will not have to deal with a charge that an outside shop would charge, being that they would have to get the new block from a dealer
 

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Premium Member
2008 Forester Cross Sport AUTO
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4,623 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies & advice.

I'm getting quotes & depending on what I decide a small loan from Captain Mainwaring!!

Regards




Alan MaC
 

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Premium Member
2006 Impreza WRX with PPP Manual of course! ;-)
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1,522 Posts

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Don, King of the parts diagram
MY11 WRX STi Sedan 6MT
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5,886 Posts
Alan,

How much oil are you using?

First off, maybe get a compression check done.

Also are you getting a lot of oil in the PCV pipework? (the metal pipe that runs along the front of the intercooler)

It maybe that at 142,000 miles your PCV valve may be sticking open especially as you had a turbo seal failure and it has gummed up.
That would allow boost to partially pressurise the crankcase.

Checkout post 16 in this thread................
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f87/another-oil-eating-thread-61586/index2.html
 

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Premium Member
2008 Forester Cross Sport AUTO
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4,623 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Cheers Don,


As usual a Mine of Information.


I appreciate that.

Basically, if I accelerate on boost black smoke out of the Exhaust (NOWHERE as near as bad before the Blower Seals were fixed).


How much Oil??

Today the Dipstick at start was Just under full.


I'ver done about 200 miles today, the Dipstick is on Minimum.

I always check the oil from cold.


I put in not a lot maybe 1/4 pint of oil & it's up to the full mark again.

As I said, not a drop on the drive or underneath.

Thanks once again.


kind


Alan
 

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Premium Member
2008 Forester Cross Sport AUTO
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4,623 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Don,

Just checked thread 16 very intersting.

The engine runs as sweet as nut.

I'm going to check this wity the Garage tomorrow.

if this is the case, I owe you a large drink>>:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

Brilliant Forum

Kind regards.

Alan MaC
 

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Premium Member
2008 Forester Cross Sport AUTO
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4,623 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Don,#

I'm wondering if you may be on to something???

Ihave looked it up on the Net & seen some diagrams.

What I have noticed over the last few months is, the Dipstick feels as if it's glued in & you really have to pull hard to get itr out to inspect & it's gradually been getting worse.

As you know Wifelet had 2 previous Foz's & the dipstick comes oout of the holder easily.

Also, when I had the loan Foz fronm the Garage, I checked the oil & dipstick came out easily.

As I said, with mine it's a tug of war & getting worse.

I'll let you know what the Garage says.

I don't want to get my hopes up too much however, if that;s what it is DON Yer a Super Star!!!!!

I really can't afford an other engine & would have to get a loan fronm these nice Bankers to cover it.

Regards



AM
 

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Don, King of the parts diagram
MY11 WRX STi Sedan 6MT
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5,886 Posts
The valve is situated at the back of the inlet manifold under the intercooler

I've just bought one (about £14) as I haven't touched mine in 110,000miles.

In the US they seem to clean them on a regular basis, probably down to the driving conditions.

Certainly worth a look. If not, next step compression check.



 

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Premium Member
2008 Forester Cross Sport AUTO
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4,623 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Don,


What can I say??


A true Gent you are.


Kind regards



Alan MaC
 

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Registered
99 UK S-turbo
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8,566 Posts
They proably clean them more often in the US due to the horrid cheap and nasty oil they use compared to our quality full synth's.

Given your dipstick problem I would certainly check the PCV before shelling out.

If you have a vacuum gauge measure the crankcase depression (using the dipstick tube) at idle, anything more than about 0.5psi vacuum is too much.

My old ford had a similar valve and that stuck open at about 110k miles and used a lot of oil, cleaned it out (dropped it into a mug of petrol for 24 hours then scrubbed it out using various small brushes) and it worked fine.

Simon
 

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Premium Member
2008 Forester Cross Sport AUTO
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4,623 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Cheers Simon,

I do hope Don is onto something, As I said I really can't afford the expense at the moment (who can?).


Regards



AM
 

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Premium Member
2008 Forester Cross Sport AUTO
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4,623 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
The Garage is going to replace the pc Valve Monday afternoon.

I'll take it for a blast up the Dual carriageway nearby.

I'll know staight away if it works, I'll just look in the mirror, if theres no black smoke coming out of the exhaust, there a good chance it is the valve.

If not, a different engine.

This engine that has done 5,000 miles was from a Foz that was in a prang.

The owner started to do up the bodywork however, for one reason or another, he has decided to break it up.

Fingers crossed it's the vlave.

Regards.



AM
 

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Registered
99 UK S-turbo
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8,566 Posts
Did you mean blue smoke, black is a sign of overfueling, blue is oil......

Simon
 

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Premium Member
2008 Forester Cross Sport AUTO
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4,623 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Bluey Greyish :biggrin:

Whatever the colour, if I accelerate on boost whilst out driving for the day, the dipstick always drops to around minimum.

If I drive like Misss Daisy & don't boost, no oil used.

I do hope it's the PC Valve.

Thanks for all your, as usual, top advice.

I'll let you know after Monday afternoon.


Regards


AM
 

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Registered
99 UK S-turbo
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8,566 Posts
OK, I think Don got it, sounds most like the PCV, and for the cost its certainly one to try before an engine change!

Simon
 

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Premium Member
2008 Forester Cross Sport AUTO
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4,623 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Cheers Simon,

I've even written to Jimmy Saville to see if he can fix it for it to be the PC Valve.:biggrin:

Regards



Alan
 

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Premium Member
2008 Forester Cross Sport AUTO
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4,623 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I think Don is well on the way to becoming a Superstar in our Household!!!

Changed the PC Valve and took it for a blast down the Dual Carriageway.

No smoke:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

Foresters have suggested I check the oil level every day to be on the safe side.

If after a week it's still OK & no blue smoke/Oil usage then that's it!!

Don has saved me £££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££!!!!!!!

Fingers crossed.

I will keeep you posted & again a big thanks to Don.

Kind regards




AM
 
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