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VIDEO HOW TO: Rotors & Pads

27K views 60 replies 31 participants last post by  ottoko 
#1 · (Edited)
VIDEO HOW TO: Rotors & Pads

A quick video I made showing how to disassemble and reassemble front and rear brakes on an SG (2003-2008) Forester with rear discs. Video may be applicable to other Subaru models and years. Vehicle shown is a 2004 Forester XT. Remember to torque all bolts to specification (not shown in video).

 
#2 ·
Great video find, would have helped me through my struggling a few weeks ago lol.

Few things it is missing:
-in the real world, there is much more corrosion present so you WILL need a wire brush to fit the fresh pads into the caliper bracket.
-You can reuse the old brake hardware if it is in good condition.
 
#11 ·
Few things it is missing:
-in the real world, there is much more corrosion present so you WILL need a wire brush to fit the fresh pads into the caliper bracket.
-You can reuse the old brake hardware if it is in good condition.
We don't have "corrosion" here, so there's really nothing for me to show in the video. But then again, common sense for the person doing the brake job should know when they need to add an extra step. This was primarily just a basic video showing how to do the brakes and some tips throughout.

And I wouldn't use old brake hardware. It's cheap enough that if you are already going through the hassle of doing the brakes, you might as well have the rotors either replaced or turned....and the pads definitely replaced.

If someone can find all the torque specs, it would be great to include them in this thread. I usually just go by feel these days :lol:

I can still see q uite a bit of mud on your suspension! Took another day off? :lol:
I tried to find torque specs in my Chilton and Haynes manual, but they just said to "tighten". I just do it by feel as well, but I know some people like to follow torque specs. If I find them, I'll post them up.

And yes, my suspension is pretty muddy. I actually did this brake job about 3 weeks after my last "day off", but only just now got a change to edit it a bit. (iMovie works wonders for quick edits).
 
#3 ·
Good video, I like the method of using the old pad to compress the front caliper. But he left out one step that I haven't done yet (cause I haven't replaced my rears) and that is compressing the rear caliper. Does it need to be screwed or something? It doesn't just compress like the fronts, correct?
 
#9 ·
But he left out one step that I haven't done yet (cause I haven't replaced my rears) and that is compressing the rear caliper. Does it need to be screwed or something? It doesn't just compress like the fronts, correct?
Nope, I didn't do that step because it wasn't necessary. I've done my brakes 4 times now (three times with new pads), and not once have i had to compress the rear calipers. They just slides right over the pads and you're set.
 
#14 ·
^^ Nope. I would just keep what you have. Have the stock rotors turned, and buy new pads. Having the rotors turned at any auto parts store usually runs about $7 each. New pads (for the high end ones) usually run about $60-80 for front and rear. I haven't ever replaced the rear shoes for the parking brake drum as they still have plenty of meat, even after 100,000 miles.
 
#16 ·
Nice Vid. I wish people would make more of these. Since this is open to the general public, I would comment that you're missing the part showing how you have to use a breaker bar or torch to remove the caliper bracket bolts.

You also forget to inspect the caliper slide boots.... typically these should be replaced and regreased with silicone based grease when you change out rotors. Checking the caliper piston boot never hurts either.

Lastly, but not least, do you find that spraying brake quiet on works ok? I typically have to use the sticky gunk that comes with the pads to avoid squeaking.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Nice Vid. I wish people would make more of these. Since this is open to the general public, I would comment that you're missing the part showing how you have to use a breaker bar or torch to remove the caliper bracket bolts.
No breaker bar was ever used. Just get your socket wrench (or regular wrench) and loosen. If it's extremely tight, a rubber mallet or a couple pounds of the fist against the wrench (shown in the video in a shot or two) will break it free just fine. If someone isn't aware of how to use the tools, then I don't think they should be doing their own brakes to be honest. Also, this video should be used in conjunction with a shop manual.

You also forget to inspect the caliper slide boots.... typically these should be replaced and regreased with silicone based grease when you change out rotors. Checking the caliper piston boot never hurts either.
I agree, but this video was made to show how to replace the rotors and pads, not a complete brake job or I would have also included how to flush and bleed the brakes (which should also be done regularly). Again, it's more of a video aide to work in conjunction with a good shop manual.

Lastly, but not least, do you find that spraying brake quiet on works ok? I typically have to use the sticky gunk that comes with the pads to avoid squeaking.
Yep, the Disc Brake Quiet is very much like the goopy stuff you get in the packets. You spray it on and it becomes thick and very, very sticky. I've never had a problem with it, and it's always performed just as well (if not better) than the goopy packeted stuff.
 
#19 ·
I think youtube is a place where all sorts of people go to research stuff. You could have jobless 15 year olds looking at this who dont know better. Maybe a disclaimer wouldn't hurt along side where you professionally list out all the tools required.

Again, great vid.


Torch isn't overkill. I just did my brakes two weekends ago. When removing the caliper bracket mounting bolts that had been soaking in PB blaster for a day I was hanging on my breaker bar with no luck. Only way I got it loose was heating with torch.
 
#24 ·
Awesome video BFox! :rock: So, what took you longer - doing the brakes or making the video? :biggrin: Looks like you're skilled in both. I love how clean your hands are. There's no way you drive that thing (admit it, you have two Fozes :biggrin:).

Reading through the replies, I was horrified to read about the torch method :huh: I know it works, but I wouldn't use it on M12-14 bolts (or whatever small size they are). You're just asking for premature failure of the heated materials. I'd think twice before using heat to remove a stubborn ball joint on a full size truck, not alone on a tiny Subaru spindle. Use heat as a LAST resort, VERY last!! If hitting it with a PB blaster doesn't work, try some more, or try some 50/50 mix of ATF/Acetone mix. Check out this chart I've borrowed from frontrange4x4.com:

Makes PB Blaster look like a kids toy, huh :cool:
 
#28 ·
Sorry guys, if you're worried about embrittling bolts due to a little propane torch you should really be worried about brake temperatures doing the same. You cant get the lump of steel (bolt, bracket, knuckle) hot enough with a little propane torch to embrittle it. The loosening process involves using the COTE of the steel to break the corrosion in the threads.

If you're heating the bolt until it is glowing red with an Oxygen Acetylene torch that's a different story.
 
#34 ·
Gary1209

Nice job on the video I am just now able to work up the courage to do work on my own car. This site is very helpful I changed my plugs and will be changing valve cover gaskets and tube seals as soon as the tube seals come in. I was always nervous about brakes, as much as I like to go I do prefer stopping!!!!!
 
#35 ·
Gary, I did all the maintenance on my last car after a lifetime of paying for someone else to do it. Now not only can I save money and fix **** when it breaks, I actually understand how the car works and diagnose my own issues. A little knowledge (in the right hands) can go a long way. I had a few friends who work on cars and I usually tossed the tougher issues and questions their way before proceeding just to get tips that may save me time and headaches later. Good luck! Brakes are pretty easy, just time consuming.
 
#36 ·
^^ Once you do it 3 times, it's an hour job for all 4-corners.....honest. I timed myself as taking apart the rear brakes in 3:20 seconds and the fronts in 4:50 seconds. If you have all the parts (and don't have to turn rotors), the re-assembly takes about 5-6 minutes per corner.

I can honestly say changing brakes is one of the easiest things on the car (other than changing the oil)
 
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