[Blue Fox]

VIDEO HOW TO: Rotors & Pads

A quick video I made showing how to disassemble and reassemble front and rear brakes on an SG (2003-2008) Forester with rear discs. Video may be applicable to other Subaru models and years. Vehicle shown is a 2004 Forester XT. Remember to torque all bolts to specification (not shown in video).

 

[Real Lyte]

Great video find, would have helped me through my struggling a few weeks ago lol.

Few things it is missing:
-in the real world, there is much more corrosion present so you WILL need a wire brush to fit the fresh pads into the caliper bracket.
-You can reuse the old brake hardware if it is in good condition.

 

[Galager]

Good video, I like the method of using the old pad to compress the front caliper. But he left out one step that I haven't done yet (cause I haven't replaced my rears) and that is compressing the rear caliper. Does it need to be screwed or something? It doesn't just compress like the fronts, correct?

 

[lh0628]

Nice video, thanks.

 

[neoshi]

If someone can find all the torque specs, it would be great to include them in this thread. I usually just go by feel these days :lol:

Good vid though!

I can still see q uite a bit of mud on your suspension! Took another day off? :lol:

 

[blackOnblack]

Great video! I'm actually swapping out pads + rotors tomorrow, and this is an awesome watch. Thanks!

 

[Real Lyte]

If someone can find all the torque specs, it would be great to include them in this thread. I usually just go by feel these days :lol:

Good vid though!

I can still see q uite a bit of mud on your suspension! Took another day off? :lol:

Torque specs I think vary by model, get an Alldata account if you want those.

 

[SubieOutlaw]

Great video.

I may actually attempt to do my brake service. Now I must search for a 2009 version. if different.

 

[Blue Fox]

But he left out one step that I haven't done yet (cause I haven't replaced my rears) and that is compressing the rear caliper. Does it need to be screwed or something? It doesn't just compress like the fronts, correct?

Nope, I didn't do that step because it wasn't necessary. I've done my brakes 4 times now (three times with new pads), and not once have i had to compress the rear calipers. They just slides right over the pads and you're set.

 

[Galager]

Good to know, thanks! The video is great. 4 times??? How many miles do you have?

Nope, I didn't do that step because it wasn't necessary. I've done my brakes 4 times now (three times with new pads), and not once have i had to compress the rear calipers. They just slides right over the pads and you're set.

 

[Blue Fox]

Few things it is missing:
-in the real world, there is much more corrosion present so you WILL need a wire brush to fit the fresh pads into the caliper bracket.
-You can reuse the old brake hardware if it is in good condition.

We don't have "corrosion" here, so there's really nothing for me to show in the video. But then again, common sense for the person doing the brake job should know when they need to add an extra step. This was primarily just a basic video showing how to do the brakes and some tips throughout.

And I wouldn't use old brake hardware. It's cheap enough that if you are already going through the hassle of doing the brakes, you might as well have the rotors either replaced or turned....and the pads definitely replaced.

If someone can find all the torque specs, it would be great to include them in this thread. I usually just go by feel these days :lol:

I can still see q uite a bit of mud on your suspension! Took another day off? :lol:

I tried to find torque specs in my Chilton and Haynes manual, but they just said to "tighten". I just do it by feel as well, but I know some people like to follow torque specs. If I find them, I'll post them up.

And yes, my suspension is pretty muddy. I actually did this brake job about 3 weeks after my last "day off", but only just now got a change to edit it a bit. (iMovie works wonders for quick edits).

 

[Blue Fox]

Good to know, thanks! The video is great. 4 times??? How many miles do you have?

- Bought the car with 68,000 miles and immediately did the brakes.
- Did the brakes again at 78,000 miles.
- Did them again at 85,000 miles.
- And just this last time (in the video), I did them at 96,000 miles (I'm now just a few hundred miles away from hitting 100,000)

I'm pretty hard on my brakes for the most part, especially off-road. And anytime my brakes start to vibrate due to warpage, I usually just replace the pads and have the discs turned or replaced, regardless if they still have meat left or not. I figure if I'm going to do brakes at all, they're going to get done with fresh parts.

 

[SubieOutlaw]

Blue Fox, you like to get your Foz dirty.

What is your recommendation for pads and rotors for my FXT? Do I need slotted rotors because of all the mud etc?

 

[Blue Fox]

^^ Nope. I would just keep what you have. Have the stock rotors turned, and buy new pads. Having the rotors turned at any auto parts store usually runs about $7 each. New pads (for the high end ones) usually run about $60-80 for front and rear. I haven't ever replaced the rear shoes for the parking brake drum as they still have plenty of meat, even after 100,000 miles.

 

[Matrix11229]

Having the rotors turned at any auto parts store usually runs about $7 each.

Thanks for the video Blue Fox :rock:
I was shopping around to resurface my rotors and no one wants to do it due to liability issues. Firestone wants $50 per rotor (doesn't matter if it's on or off the car), and some shop at the gas station wants $27 each.

 

[Atomic1]

Nice Vid. I wish people would make more of these. Since this is open to the general public, I would comment that you're missing the part showing how you have to use a breaker bar or torch to remove the caliper bracket bolts.

You also forget to inspect the caliper slide boots.... typically these should be replaced and regreased with silicone based grease when you change out rotors. Checking the caliper piston boot never hurts either.

Lastly, but not least, do you find that spraying brake quiet on works ok? I typically have to use the sticky gunk that comes with the pads to avoid squeaking.

 

[Blue Fox]

Nice Vid. I wish people would make more of these. Since this is open to the general public, I would comment that you're missing the part showing how you have to use a breaker bar or torch to remove the caliper bracket bolts.

No breaker bar was ever used. Just get your socket wrench (or regular wrench) and loosen. If it's extremely tight, a rubber mallet or a couple pounds of the fist against the wrench (shown in the video in a shot or two) will break it free just fine. If someone isn't aware of how to use the tools, then I don't think they should be doing their own brakes to be honest. Also, this video should be used in conjunction with a shop manual.

You also forget to inspect the caliper slide boots.... typically these should be replaced and regreased with silicone based grease when you change out rotors. Checking the caliper piston boot never hurts either.

I agree, but this video was made to show how to replace the rotors and pads, not a complete brake job or I would have also included how to flush and bleed the brakes (which should also be done regularly). Again, it's more of a video aide to work in conjunction with a good shop manual.

Lastly, but not least, do you find that spraying brake quiet on works ok? I typically have to use the sticky gunk that comes with the pads to avoid squeaking.

Yep, the Disc Brake Quiet is very much like the goopy stuff you get in the packets. You spray it on and it becomes thick and very, very sticky. I've never had a problem with it, and it's always performed just as well (if not better) than the goopy packeted stuff.

 

[Galager]

If someone isn't aware of how to use the tools, then I don't think they should be doing their own brakes to be honest. Also, this video should be used in conjunction with a shop manual.

Agreed and a torch on brakes? That's serious overkill. PB Blaster should work fine. But anyone that would do a job like this should already know how to remove a stubborn bolt, brakes or otherwise.

 

[Atomic1]

I think youtube is a place where all sorts of people go to research stuff. You could have jobless 15 year olds looking at this who dont know better. Maybe a disclaimer wouldn't hurt along side where you professionally list out all the tools required.

Again, great vid.


Torch isn't overkill. I just did my brakes two weekends ago. When removing the caliper bracket mounting bolts that had been soaking in PB blaster for a day I was hanging on my breaker bar with no luck. Only way I got it loose was heating with torch.

 

[pleiad7]

Cool... I've added a link to this thread in the knowledge base.