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Hey all,

I have been working on getting components for upgrading my audio system in my 03 Foreter X. It has the stock cd player, I am not sure about the speakers, and has the tweeter upgrade.

For a headunit I have a Kenwood KDC-MVP7019. I need to extract it from my Bronco, and its a couple of years old but it worked like new when I parked it. Most important thing is it plays MP3s off cd.

I dont have anything picked for door speakers, was going with the stock ones for now, I like the way the tweeters are mounted too. Biggest question is the Kenwood puts out 50W per channel. Anyone know what the stock door speakers are rated at?

Ok second upgrade I need a little more bass. I dont want so much bass that my doors rattle, I think its rediculious when I see a car with the stereo so loud nuts and bolts start to fall off. I want the system to be virtually invisable.

I bought two Eminence Alpha 6 woofers, they handle 100W RMS. They have a 92 db SPL that starts at about 160 hz. Thats pretty decent for a 6" speaker. They also have a minimum box size of only .3 cubic feet. I am trying to build the boxes to go under the front seats.

Finally I got an amp, Linear Power 9521Q, 95 w x2 channels. Its used and has a nice small size. The idea is to mount the amp to the passenger side sub enclosure.

I used to be very good at getting a lot of sound out of small speakers. The last project I successfully did was with a Nissan 240 sx. I had a Kenwood KDC 7001 headunit, (still have it but it needs repair) KGC 6042 parametric equalizer (still have thisas well) a bandpass box with two Urban Audio 8" subs, and a HiFonics Pluto amp, 60W. This does not sound like a lot of power, but it was incredibly loud for its size. The box was extremely tight and the bass was good enough to feel. The secret behind the whole thing was the amp was bulletproof. I would crank up the bass on the head unit, then set the 40hz band on the eq to max, set the parametric low band to 40hz and set that to max, and finally set the sub frequency to 40 hz and crank that one up too. It overdrives the amp, and at only 30 w per channel, it sounded like it was putting out over 100. Back then Kenwood made some extremely clean stuff, highly sensitive, which is probably why the headunit now sounds crappy.

I ended up trading the whole box with amp to a friend for an even bigger box. The car got totaled, andI got a van with ambitions of building a huge system in that. It never materialized, I wound up loosing that box and settling to factory speakers fromthat point on.

Right now its not a matter of what sounds better, but I want my new Kenwood installed, so I can open my MP3 library. I tried the whole Ipod avenue, and honestly I was disappointed with it. I didnt get the ipod, kinda sucks when you got to convert all your mp3s to Itunes. But the mp3 player with fm broadcaster just sounded bad. It was also inconvienant trying to look at that little screen while driving. The Kenwood is definately theway to go.

I am pretty happy with it, and the speakers seem like they are high quality, but I have never heard of this amp. I didnt like any of the amps at the store, seemed like they are all made in China now, andI didnt trust them. The brands they have I am used to seeing at the flea market, like Pyramid, Pyle and stuff like that. They have some other brands I have never heard of as well.

Finally they are having trouble gettting the wire harness to hook the Kenwood up to the stock radio harness. I have been trying since before christmas to get this $20 part.

I also want the male end, the stock Forester radio is going to find a new home in my camper. I like the idea that it has a weather band, will be handy for camping me things.

Ok so is my logic sound or am I going down the wrong path here?

Derek
 

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heh... the brand Linear Power is not in business, and was a "label amp" company. they were not actual manufacturers, they would just buy cartons of amps from overseas and stick a label on 'em.


How many amperes is the fuse on the amplifier?


also, note that the head unit you've got does not have a switching power supply, and its continuous output is about 21w/channel on a good day :)
 
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Hey apanthropy,

Actually the amp does not have a fuse on it. It either had one inline and has now been cut off, or has an internal circuit breaker, but i doubt that.

What do you mean the headunit is non-switching? If it means that it has a pcont lead comming from it to hook to antennas/amps, then it actually has two of them, one for a power antenna and one for the amps. It also has three sets of rca outs, Faded front and rear and a switchable non-faded output. Yeah I figure that the continous power is around 20-25RMS, supposing it peaks out at 50. It is a very clean sounding unit, even on cheap speakers. In my bronco I had it hooked up to some Sound Storm 6 1/2 in the doors and the factory premium 6x8s in the rear. For all the noise that truck made the stereo sounded great. I expect it to sound even better in the quiet interior in the Forester.

Derek
 

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crazywolf said:
What do you mean the headunit is non-switching?
oh, that means that the internal amp in the head unit does not use FETs and a toroid to up the voltage going to the output mosfets - so it cannot mathematically produce more than about 20-23 watts continuous from a 12v source :)
 
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Hey,

I got a little update here, I finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, got a wiring harness for the HU. I gave up on getting one from the local stereo shop. Instead of getting my money back I talked the guy into selling me a crossover. Its a Power Acoustik C-3B. Yeah its made in China, but crossovers are pretty simple, theres no power going through there, and I need something to seperate the low sound into the sub, there is no sub output on my HU, and I didnt want to install a whole equalizer into the second DIN slot in the dash. I wouldnt use all of the equalizer anyway, only the sub part of it.

So this weekend I will hardwire the wireharness to the stereo and hopefully get it installed, if I dont mess up my dash in the process.


Derek
 
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problems removing radio bezel

All you people with electronic climate controls make me sick! I have the manual ones, and the bezel surrounding the radio doesnt just "swing away".

I searched a lot of different forums and finally found something dusty in Scooby mods. This is for anyone else that owns an X that is looking to replace their head unit. There is two cables that have to be removed, that are connected to the A/C controls. One is under the dash, drivers side, and is easily unattached (per the thread) and the other is under the glove box. It has to be removed to get to the cable. Once these are removed, then I guess the center panel pulls out far enough to get at the headunit.

I will keep you updated, and if I can figure out how to post pictures, I will do that too.

Derek
 

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I'd trade my crappy auto climate mess (even with upgraded fan) for a manual setup and a bit more labor to get the radio surround out any day of the week. :)

Frank

crazywolf said:
All you people with electronic climate controls make me sick! I have the manual ones, and the bezel surrounding the radio doesnt just "swing away".

I searched a lot of different forums and finally found something dusty in Scooby mods. This is for anyone else that owns an X that is looking to replace their head unit. There is two cables that have to be removed, that are connected to the A/C controls. One is under the dash, drivers side, and is easily unattached (per the thread) and the other is under the glove box. It has to be removed to get to the cable. Once these are removed, then I guess the center panel pulls out far enough to get at the headunit.

I will keep you updated, and if I can figure out how to post pictures, I will do that too.

Derek
 
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