2017 Forester XT Touring
So no new issues from my last post, car has been a blast to drive, so much so, that I just dumped more money into parts. Getting them installed and etuned this next week. More to come!
Keep going!!! Keep posting!So no new issues from my last post, car has been a blast to drive, so much so, that I just dumped more money into parts. Getting them installed and etuned this next week. More to come!
my wife may not like thatKeep going!!! Keep posting!
Next you'll want to buy my IPT built 4eat!
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Got the homelink mirror installed today now that the dealer I was working with was able to get me the window adapter needed. Install took about 15 minutes including time to program and calibrate the compass. I used the instructions posted here, as the mirror came with none for the install.
I also found an old green bulb from my center console that had died and stole the bulb condom off of it so now the drink cooler light matches the rest of the interior.
Alright, got my center console armrest extender and while its not as perfect as I had hoped, it cleaned up well enough to work for now. I'm likely going to take the thing to an upholstry shop and get the top redone in some leather with padding, as the stocker is just vinyl on plastic and isn't all that comfy. I'll grab a few photos later as its cold out 😛.
I also received my new key/fob combo:
Part number is 57497AG48A and can be programmed to work just fine on my car. Much better than having a separate key and fob. Range is much improved in my case and I gained the panic button. The trunk unlock doesn't work, but perhaps i'll look into that further in the near future. Still need to get the key cut, but I was able to save quite a bit by moving my transponder chip from my old valet key to the new one. Simply popped out the chip in the new key and slid the new one in.
WOOO! Looking good Tweak, we appreciate the kind words and the review. I'm really glad you enjoy that intake for all the reasons you mentioned. I must say that I entirely agree with youFirstly, removed the cobb SRI and installed the new Grimmspeed SRI. Its much simpler to install, has less parts, much larger filter element, better heat shield and fits the Forster much better than the cobb. Anyone wanna cheap used cobb SRI and after maf tube? .
Key I bought on ebay blank, then had a local lock smith cut it for $10. For the fob, I programmed it myself and it took just a few minutes. The only part I had to do special was removing the chip from my old key (I used a valet key) and placed it in the clam shell of the new key. Really easy, just gotta take your time. Worse case, the dealer can activate the existing chip in it, but its much more expensive.Great journal man!
The dealer programmed the key fob for you? Or you did it?
The cooler and the double din for the head unit where did you find those ?!
Key I bought on ebay blank, then had a local lock smith cut it for $10. For the fob, I programmed it myself and it took just a few minutes. The only part I had to do special was removing the chip from my old key (I used a valet key) and placed it in the clam shell of the new key. Really easy, just gotta take your time. Worse case, the dealer can activate the existing chip in it, but its much more expensive.
As for the double din and cooler. The double din top can be found quite readily if you look around. I believe this is the correct US part, though i'd have to double check.
As for the cooler, I bought that from Japanparts.com. Their website isn't the easiest to navigate, but I can pull up the part numbers if you are interested. I can say its not the cheapest, but it looks the best . Alternatively, you can put 2 cubby pockets there I believe for relatively cheap.
DUDE that would be great, I just spent about 30 mins looking on the japan parts site and couldn't find it haha. A part number would be great!
Thanks for the info!
you know, i've kinda just been flying blind and its not terrible, but i'd love to see any solutions you guys have come up with, even if just for the knowledge of whats happening. I hate that stuff getting lost to time as much of the stuff i've had questions on has.The build looks great. If you are still looking for the electronics solution to display current gear, I can dig up the code I had. You decode 4 signal pins (like dip switches) and translate that to display on a 7 segment.
lol, I do like to have it, sometimes i'm not paying attention and have jolted myself with a bad down shift from time to time and I HATE 4th and its pesky lockup of the TC and sometimes forget and shift there while cruising around town and regret it. I do actually already have an arduino i've been playing around with. Will be implementing a smart IC sprayer here shortly. I like the OEM functionality, but I don't wanna think about it, I wanna turn it on and have it do its thing and let me know when it needs more water lol, so I can always use some of the extra pins for this too, then I can tie them together in some way either part of the guage cluster or in a box sitting on the steering column, just gotta play with it and see what works best (or if it doesn't keep doing what i've been doing lol)I used an AVR microprocessor (what Arduino uses) to detect when the four pins gets grounded. You can design a circuit to light up individual lights to do the same. But I am more familiar with software so I went that route. Once I get home and get to my source code I can try to explain it better.
I never got it installed in the car though. Like you, I drive blind and got used to keeping a mental note of which gear I am in. :wink2:
Here is the Arduino source. The gist of how the decoding works is as follows:
Current gear 1 2 3 4 Normal mode
Indicator 1 L H L H H
Indicator 2 H L L H H
Indicator 3 H H H L H
Indicator 4 High (nothing) Low (downshift indicator on)
Indicator 1 = Connector B54 Pin 6
Indicator 2 = Connector B54 Pin 17
Indicator 3 = Connector B54 Pin 5
Indicator 4 = Connector B54 Pin 7
The 4 pins coming out of the Arduino need to be pulled high in the normal state. And when the TCU pulls the signal low, the code will handle then output the digit to a 7-segment LED. Since you are already running an Arduino then you have already figured out how to power the board.
This..Is a safe assumption that this radiator/trans cooler setup will work just as well on my 04FXT. They are in my cart but I want to make sure. Any install tips or issues that you ran into during upgrading?