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Discussion Starter #61
A few updates as its been a while. We found the culprit with the shifting issues. Apparently I was hitting red line and the stock ECU parameter for red line has a few conditions that must be met before it will resume the fuel cut. The primary one causing my issue was the boost level resume. Basically, when you hit the rev limiter, it cuts fuel until all the conditions were met and in my case, this value was still stock and set to 9.67 psi. I hear from Cobb it usually doesn't need to be changes, but thats not always the case. So what was happening was, I'd occasionally hit red line during a shift, it would cut fuel and wait for the boost to drop from around 16psi at redl ine to 9.67 and then resume, causing my 1/2 delay. Now that this is fixed, I can consistently romp the car with no issues. The rev limiter is still there, but now it will just bounce off the limiter instead of straight up cutting fuel.

Next up, I installed a new Whiteline 22m Rear sway bar the other day. The fit and finish is beautiful, but I'm having some odd issue with my endlinks, so new ones are arriving tomorrow. Even on the softest setting, this bar makes the car feel so much better. Thinking with new endlinks, ill bump it up to the medium pressure setting and leave it there. I very much recommend this upgrade to anyone wishing the brick of a car handled a bit more sporty.

Lastly, I pulled off my downpipe yesterday because I was getting an exhaust leak, I think due to a reused gasktet. While i Had it off, I applied heat wrap to the top and down to the bend at the bottom. Purpose of this is to hopefully keep some additional heat in the exhaust and out of the engine bay as well as to reduce the likelihood of damaging my rubber components close to the exhaust.

I also applied some DEI gold tape to the inside of the heat shield to assist with reflecting heat back at the exhaust, so far no issues with 100miles of very hard driving.
 

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I can’t remember if you installed these already but you should get yourself some rear subframe locking bolts. A few companies make them. I opted for Whiteline.

I don’t have an upgraded stiffer RSB yet but installed these and noticed and felt a difference right away. It’s debated on the forum (sorry don’t have the link) whether you can truly feel it or not, but I honestly could. I’d like to do the RSB too eventually.

Cheap and easy mod too.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
I'll take a look at those. I can say the RSB with Kartboy endlinks made a huge difference. Like, to the point that Now the car doesn't really lean, but I do slide along my leather seats haha. I fully recommend it if you at all care about handling.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
I replaced all my exterior lights with LED bulbs, but purchased the wrong replacement flasher relay, so I while they all work perfectly, my turn signals are hyperflashing. The correct replacement module is a CF13 and NOT the CF14. The only difference is the pinout of the relay, but its opposite, so it just doesn't work if you get it wrong. New one is arriving tomorrow from amazon.

Also received and installed a kicker hideaway subwoofer under my drivers seat. Its just about the right amount of bass. I do miss the kick of having some bigger woofers, but honestly, the weight, space in the trunk and cost led me to go for a hideaway. Since this is also a daily, it was worth it to me to not have to deal with all that crap. It fits perfectly under the driver seat and I got it all wired up in about an hour. I'll likely be upgrading the speakers next as they leave a lot to be desired as far as clarity goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
I can’t remember if you installed these already but you should get yourself some rear subframe locking bolts. A few companies make them. I opted for Whiteline.

I don’t have an upgraded stiffer RSB yet but installed these and noticed and felt a difference right away. It’s debated on the forum (sorry don’t have the link) whether you can truly feel it or not, but I honestly could. I’d like to do the RSB too eventually.

Cheap and easy mod too.
btw, read into this and will be purchasing them in the next few weeks. Just waiting for the weather to improve as its been cold and rainy as of recent and I don't really want to get all gross just to install 2 bolts under the car. I'll post my experience once I get them in. Thanks for mentioning these!
 

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btw, read into this and will be purchasing them in the next few weeks. Just waiting for the weather to improve as its been cold and rainy as of recent and I don't really want to get all gross just to install 2 bolts under the car. I'll post my experience once I get them in. Thanks for mentioning these!
No problem! It’s a pretty easy install. I’m sure you read the threads but I pretty much followed the first one to a T. My foz has almost no rust on it but I still bought the tap and cleaned the internal threads and then a die to clean the bolts off. I think this helped. I also had to loosen up the subframe bolts as my frame was prettty far off center. Looking forward to reading about the install.

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f70/diy-whiteline-subframe-locking-bolts-81046/

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f70/rear-subframe-bolts-you-faq-32200/
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Been some time since i've posted any updates. Hurt my back shortly after my last post so i've been down and not driving as much as I would have liked. But feeling better and getting back into the swing of things just as winter approaches :\.

Anyways, the car has been great. I'm very comfortable with the current power level, but have realized 2 things.

  • You can never have enough power
  • The 4EAT without VTD is very sad
So, i'm at a point now where more power would be nice, but honestly, there is no way I could safely use it on the current setup. Since my forester has an MPT center diff, its like a really fast front wheel drive car. I do not need i'm getting any AWD experience here, which is a huge bummer. That being said, I just place an order for the parts for a VTD swap. While I have the transmission out, i'm also going to have the Torque Converter upgraded to a high stall unit. This should improve the transmissions ability to handle the power i'm putting down as as well as give the car the ability to distribute the power across all 4 wheels in a better than 90-10 fashion. The last item i'm considering is a CF Drive shaft, but i've not settled on that at this time. Hopefully more to come very soon. I'll document what I can as I do plan on also installed the sport shift shifter as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
I received the TCU from a baja (turbo with sportshift) the other day. Part number 31711AJ300. Also just purchased a full 4EAT transmission from a Saab 92x (its a rebranded WRX) for quite cheap. Once it arrives, i'll remove the VTD from the tail section and prepare it for installation into my 2005 XT. I have a few leads on a sport shifter, but am having a hard time getting the responses. Regardless, i'll need a bit of time to sort this all out and get the wiring figured out. Looking forward to be done with front wheel drive burnouts half the year in washington :).

Still trying to sort out where to source a cheap turbo torque converter to send off to IPT. if anyone has any ideas, i'm open to them :)
 

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Don't hesitate.. Jack your car up and put the VTD in!

It's a straight forward swap. Pull the drive shaft and the center diff housing.. It's a Great upgrade!

The TCU is another stand alone swap. 2 bolts and 3 plugs. Makes a Vast improvement on shift points!

It's the 2 portions of the sport shift and paddle shifters, that I already have done.
I just haven't put the SS and paddles in, yet.

Did you not get a TC with the Saab transmission?

I just picked up a turbo Baja trans.. Plus I have my stock trans sitting around, since I put the IPT trans in .
Both have TC's. I probably only need 1

But I'll check with PMP Auto, in PA.. It might be cheaper to have them ship one to IPT.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Don't hesitate.. Jack your car up and put the VTD in!

It's a straight forward swap. Pull the drive shaft and the center diff housing.. It's a Great upgrade!

The TCU is another stand alone swap. 2 bolts and 3 plugs. Makes a Vast improvement on shift points!

It's the 2 portions of the sport shift and paddle shifters, that I already have done.
I just haven't put the SS and paddles in, yet.

Did you not get a TC with the Saab transmission?

I just picked up a turbo Baja trans.. Plus I have my stock trans sitting around, since I put the IPT trans in .
Both have TC's. I probably only need 1

But I'll check with PMP Auto, in PA.. It might be cheaper to have them ship one to IPT.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

I'm actually not sure if it comes with the TC or not, I saw quite a few that did for like $800+ and then this one that is pretty local for only 300, so figured i'd take a chance and source the TC elsewhere to hopefully save some money. I want the sportshift shifter, but None of the autowreckers i've been reach out to have been responding, so i'll have to keep pushing on that.

If you are willing to give up one of your TCs or have one locally, I'd much appreciate any help there. I live in Subaru Country, so parts can be hard or expensive locally. More than happy to pay a fair price for a good condition used TC.

Few questions since you have this working :), if you don't mind.

-when you say it improves the shifts, how so? I've read this once before (perhaps from you haha), but no one has really clarified that i've seen. Are the shift points just higher or does it respond better to aggressive driving? I guess it could also just be the firmness of the shifts too, but thats what i've been trying to clarify.
-Have you manual shifted at all yet? I'm curious to know if you put it in sport shift, do all 4 gears hold as expected. Just curious how this works as I don't think i've seen it explained either.
-Also, I take it that the shift feel better during normal D driving and not just when manual shifting?

Thanks!
 

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I'm actually not sure if it comes with the TC or not, I saw quite a few that did for like $800+ and then this one that is pretty local for only 300, so figured i'd take a chance and source the TC elsewhere to hopefully save some money. I want the sportshift shifter, but None of the autowreckers i've been reach out to have been responding, so i'll have to keep pushing on that.

If you are willing to give up one of your TCs or have one locally, I'd much appreciate any help there. I live in Subaru Country, so parts can be hard or expensive locally. More than happy to pay a fair price for a good condition used TC.

Few questions since you have this working :), if you don't mind.

-when you say it improves the shifts, how so? I've read this once before (perhaps from you haha), but no one has really clarified that i've seen. Are the shift points just higher or does it respond better to aggressive driving? I guess it could also just be the firmness of the shifts too, but thats what i've been trying to clarify.
-Have you manual shifted at all yet? I'm curious to know if you put it in sport shift, do all 4 gears hold as expected. Just curious how this works as I don't think i've seen it explained either.
-Also, I take it that the shift feel better during normal D driving and not just when manual shifting?

Thanks!
Yeah, we have a pile of Subaru's on the east coast, as well..
About 25 minutes away, in 2 directions, I have small "mom and pop" Subaru junk yards..
2 hrs away, we have PMP Auto.. "turbo Subaru speciality" junkyard..

I just snagged a low mileage turbo Baja trans with TC for 200$. (From pop junkyard)
If my IPT trans can't do the paddle shifting, I'll have the Baja trans built by IPT. (Or maybe give it a run in stock form)

I Will Not give up on paddle shifters! Lol..

The TCU gives higher rpm shifts and a little firmer..
I can't fully say on how it will handle aggressive driving, with a stock trans.
It handles wonderfully with my IPT built trans.

And on that note.. I manually shift, a Lot!
Mainly down shifts into 3rd, to pass..
But I have to be aware of my speed or it will drop to 2nd and launch! (Which is always fine with me..) haha..

I don't have the SS shifter in the car. So I don't know how it feels, to hold gears, yet..
I'm sure looking forward to it tho!

Troy

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #73
I messaged PMP auto to see what they got. Feel free to PM me about that TC if you are still interested (or if not, please let me know and i'll continue my search). I probably won't purcahse for sure until my transmission arrives, but would love to get the ball rolling.

I'm still awaiting confirmation on the CF driveshaft. Not having much luck getting responses from people :(.

Last item I may consider is a cusco lsd. I know its a bit expensive, but I think with VTD, getting an LSD in the rear will completely change the dynamics of the car allowing both rear wheels to locking under acceleration. That combinded with an CF drive shaft are both relatively unexplorered territory for the 4EAT from what i've seen. Not sure exactly how much they will impact driving day to day, but I cannot think that better throttle response, more traction (and traction in the rear most importantly), and a loss of rotating engine mass would hurt me much lol. I've also see than since Carbon Fiber flexes so much, it reduce alot of strain on other components in the drivetrain which can be helpful in modified vehicles. Going to have to sleep on this a bit more to see how I feel. Perhaps I may do the LSD first and then the CF drive shaft. They are about the same price, just not sure which will give me the most benefit.
 

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I'll PM you my number..

Why not a jdm 4.44 Suretrac rear diff? Cheaper and OEM.. (I would suggest waiting until you get to drive with the VTD, first) Yes, the VTD makes that big of a difference!

4eat drive shaft = STI drive shaft.. From what I found.. (I want one)
 

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Discussion Starter #75
I'll PM you my number..

Why not a jdm 4.44 Suretrac rear diff? Cheaper and OEM.. (I would suggest waiting until you get to drive with the VTD, first) Yes, the VTD makes that big of a difference!

4eat drive shaft = STI drive shaft..
From what I found.. (I want one)
I've seen that diff talked about )I think it was Type2 who originally investigated it, but haven't seen any confirmation it works or that our rear axels/hubs would work. If we have any confirmation on this, i've be more than happy to dump some money on a JDM unit.

Curious looking at the install for the VTD, were you able to do it on the vehicle without any issues? Do you know roughly how much ATF was lost in your case when removing the tail housing? Thinking of maybe just emptying the ATF sump and refilling with the lost amount before removing the tail section so decrease the chances of a ton of it coming out. Why does it have to smell so bad? haha
 

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I've seen that diff talked about )I think it was Type2 who originally investigated it, but haven't seen any confirmation it works or that our rear axels/hubs would work. If we have any confirmation on this, i've be more than happy to dump some money on a JDM unit.

Curious looking at the install for the VTD, were you able to do it on the vehicle without any issues? Do you know roughly how much ATF was lost in your case when removing the tail housing? Thinking of maybe just emptying the ATF sump and refilling with the lost amount before removing the tail section so decrease the chances of a ton of it coming out. Why does it have to smell so bad? haha

Earlier versions, use the two different size axles.(ie: V1 - V4) Later versions use our axles.(ie: our years).. I'd have to go through my searches, to be exact.

I might have drained my trans and used fresh fluid. But I can't remember, off hand.
Not sure if I put that info in my build thread or not? (But I think I did, as it was a new trans and did a early fluid change) which I'm due for again.

Yeah, it's a pretty crappy smell...
 

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Discussion Starter #77
I'll PM you my number..

Why not a jdm 4.44 Suretrac rear diff? Cheaper and OEM.. (I would suggest waiting until you get to drive with the VTD, first) Yes, the VTD makes that big of a difference!

4eat drive shaft = STI drive shaft.. From what I found.. (I want one)
Earlier versions, use the two different size axles.(ie: V1 - V4) Later versions use our axles.(ie: our years).. I'd have to go through my searches, to be exact.

I might have drained my trans and used fresh fluid. But I can't remember, off hand.
Not sure if I put that info in my build thread or not? (But I think I did, as it was a new trans and did a early fluid change) which I'm due for again.

Yeah, it's a pretty crappy smell...
So, i read your journal, but you left that detail out. No biggy, i'll just plan for swapping some ATF. Oddly enough, I did see you were also having that issue with the AccessPort blanking out during pulls, did you ever figure that out? Man, I've been having that for a while now and its SOOOO irritating when I am logging.

In other news it does look like the transmission does have the TC, so thats good. I've nearly 100% confirmed the part number for the DSS CF driveshaft and will likely pull the trigger monday. I'll install both at the same time and then once I get used to the changes, i'll push forward with the High stall and/or rear lsd. I think I may have found a good SureTrack unit, but awaiting a confirmation with the seller of its version/generation. If I can confirm, i'll likely grab it and keep it set aside until i'm ready.

Once my traction issues are solved with the VTD, I think i'll can finalize my motor build. Probably just headers and a new top mount. The gains should be fairly large and I think will satisfy my for day to day activities :)
 

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So, i read your journal, but you left that detail out. No biggy, i'll just plan for swapping some ATF. Oddly enough, I did see you were also having that issue with the AccessPort blanking out during pulls, did you ever figure that out? Man, I've been having that for a while now and its SOOOO irritating when I am logging.

In other news it does look like the transmission does have the TC, so thats good. I've nearly 100% confirmed the part number for the DSS CF driveshaft and will likely pull the trigger monday. I'll install both at the same time and then once I get used to the changes, i'll push forward with the High stall and/or rear lsd. I think I may have found a good SureTrack unit, but awaiting a confirmation with the seller of its version/generation. If I can confirm, i'll likely grab it and keep it set aside until i'm ready.

Once my traction issues are solved with the VTD, I think i'll can finalize my motor build. Probably just headers and a new top mount. The gains should be fairly large and I think will satisfy my for day to day activities :)
Hahahaha... I'm still not 100% sure it's "fixed"..
I have ferret chokes on the OBD2 cable.. Grounding wires added, etc...

The biggest change came, when the closed deck block went in.
It could have nothing to do with it, but that's when I noticed the biggest change. Maybe because a loose wire got tightened up?
If you continue to have issues.. I have a BtSsm dongle.. It doesn't glitch out and only 100$.. Your tuner would still have to tune through the AP..
You just log with the BtSsm.
You pay 15$ for an app.. and you can put all your gauges on your phone or any Android device. Possibly even iPhone?

I'm stoked to hear about the drive shaft!
I might just put tone on my STI swapped FXT and the STI drive shaft in my silver FXT.. or just drop the DSS on my silver one.



What power levels are you at right now?

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #79
So, i read your journal, but you left that detail out. No biggy, i'll just plan for swapping some ATF. Oddly enough, I did see you were also having that issue with the AccessPort blanking out during pulls, did you ever figure that out? Man, I've been having that for a while now and its SOOOO irritating when I am logging.

In other news it does look like the transmission does have the TC, so thats good. I've nearly 100% confirmed the part number for the DSS CF driveshaft and will likely pull the trigger monday. I'll install both at the same time and then once I get used to the changes, i'll push forward with the High stall and/or rear lsd. I think I may have found a good SureTrack unit, but awaiting a confirmation with the seller of its version/generation. If I can confirm, i'll likely grab it and keep it set aside until i'm ready.

Once my traction issues are solved with the VTD, I think i'll can finalize my motor build. Probably just headers and a new top mount. The gains should be fairly large and I think will satisfy my for day to day activities :)
Hahahaha... I'm still not 100% sure it's "fixed"..
I have ferret chokes on the OBD2 cable.. Grounding wires added, etc...

The biggest change came, when the closed deck block went in.
It could have nothing to do with it, but that's when I noticed the biggest change. Maybe because a loose wire got tightened up?
If you continue to have issues.. I have a BtSsm dongle.. It doesn't glitch out and only 100$.. Your tuner would still have to tune through the AP..
You just log with the BtSsm.
You pay 15$ for an app.. and you can put all your gauges on your phone or any Android device. Possibly even iPhone?

I'm stoked to hear about the drive shaft!
I might just put tone on my STI swapped FXT and the STI drive shaft in my silver FXT.. or just drop the DSS on my silver one.



What power levels are you at right now?

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
No Dyno yet, all road tuning. Hoping to get on a Dyno soon though, probably for header and ic tuning. If I had to guess 280-300, but I honestly don't know with this upgraded turbo.

I'll let you know how the driveshaft goes, hoping this all goes smoothly!
 

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Discussion Starter #80
CF driveshaft has been ordered, lets see if it fits :). If not, i'll have a like new drifveshaft on sale haha.

Also ordering a new pitchstop and 4eat mount/bushing from Rallitek. Hoping to firm things up a little bit and see if I can further remove some of the 4eat's slop :p. More to come soon, Driveshaft is built to order, so it may be a few days before it ships and I am also west coast so I expect it to take a good week to arrive.

I've got 3 weeks off for the holidays starting on the 17th, so i'll probably work out the install somewhere in there. Hoping it all goes painless :)
 
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