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Discussion Starter #41
Alright, got my center console armrest extender and while its not as perfect as I had hoped, it cleaned up well enough to work for now. I'm likely going to take the thing to an upholstry shop and get the top redone in some leather with padding, as the stocker is just vinyl on plastic and isn't all that comfy. I'll grab a few photos later as its cold out :p.

I also received my new key/fob combo:



Part number is 57497AG48A and can be programmed to work just fine on my car. Much better than having a separate key and fob. Range is much improved in my case and I gained the panic button. The trunk unlock doesn't work, but perhaps i'll look into that further in the near future. Still need to get the key cut, but I was able to save quite a bit by moving my transponder chip from my old valet key to the new one. Simply popped out the chip in the new key and slid the new one in.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Just got word the turbo has been rebuilt and is being sent back today! I was sent a couple of screenshots and cannot wait to see this thing in person and get it installed. Final specs were as followed:

Billet 11-blade Compressor wheel
Upgraded bearings and seals
Balanced 3 times
Port and Polish
Cermic coating on both the hot and cool sides of the turbo

Thanks to Ruben @ Socal Porting for the work on this!

Hoping to install sometime next week, but this mostly comes down to my work schedule, so more to come.


 

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Alright, got my center console armrest extender and while its not as perfect as I had hoped, it cleaned up well enough to work for now. I'm likely going to take the thing to an upholstry shop and get the top redone in some leather with padding, as the stocker is just vinyl on plastic and isn't all that comfy. I'll grab a few photos later as its cold out :p.

I also received my new key/fob combo:

Part number is 57497AG48A and can be programmed to work just fine on my car. Much better than having a separate key and fob. Range is much improved in my case and I gained the panic button. The trunk unlock doesn't work, but perhaps i'll look into that further in the near future. Still need to get the key cut, but I was able to save quite a bit by moving my transponder chip from my old valet key to the new one. Simply popped out the chip in the new key and slid the new one in.
I have actually been thinking about doing the same thing to my extended armrest. It's nice to have but it's definitely not comfortable! Be sure to post an update if you get it reupholstered!

I did the key fob mod last year and for me it's one of the best upgrades ever since the key is one of those things you touch/hold/handle all the time. Makes a difference haha. I'm not sure you'll be able to get the trunk unlock to work - from my reading, it's a car model specific (outbacks I think it works). But you may be able to do some wire harness magic to make it work??
 

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Discussion Starter #45
OK, so huge update today! I got the vf48 installed and have started the road tuning process with Ray. I've been breaking in the turbo for a few hundred miles on a base map that he provided and it drove very similarly. Today, I loaded the first revision on the tune which starts to add power. Already, its much faster at all RPM ranges than the td04. I'll need to get the tuning finished this week to leave my final impressions, but all I can say now is wow....

Regarding the turbo, it coming back from socal porting was beautiful. Installation wasn't too bad, the worst part was lining up the oil return on the turbo and the oil inlet as I choose to not replace the line at this time. I also feel I was very lucky here, as when I went to go pull the turbos coolant return line, it burst on me, so it was obviously aged a bit too much. Glad it happened while I was working on it and not on the road!

Lastly, the td04... I cannot even start to describe how much smaller it is overall. Like, I knew it was a small turbo, but damn, no wonder people say it doesn't let the car breath. Until you get it off the car and set next to the vf48, its not clear, but its so much smaller in everyway.

I'll post some pics later, but wanted to get this out there for now!
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Alright, about time for an update I think. So the VF48 has been broken in for a bit now and we've been working on the tuning with Ray from Turbotek. A few things have come up since then which I will discuss now.

First off, I ended up ditching my heat shield completely and swapping for a turbo blanket. This seems to be working much better at keeping heat down and keep it off the intercooler. Also looks much nicer and gives a bit more room around the turbo. Going to be wrapping the upper portion of my downpipe as well the next time I have it off the car. I went with Thermal Zero for my turbo blanket and wrap. These guys make a great product and do so right here in the good ol US of A. I did originally purchase their downpipe blanket, but returned it due to my grimmspeed divorced downpipe being a bit too wide and then wanting to be able to access the O2 bung which the blanket would cover. These thing was very well made though, so if you are looking for a more affordable alternative, check out Thermal Zero.

I also installed some Hella Supertones behind my grille. They look very nice and are worth the effort. I don't use my horn often, but when I do, I want to be heard and the stocker just wasn't capable. No issues now.

Nextly, while working with Ray, we decided about 10 revisions in that it may be a good idea to get a wideband installed to make sure we were safely hitting our target AFR. I choose the AEM X-Series wideband and Ray assisted with setting it up to utilize the driversside TGV ECU input for a data feed. This allowed us to log with the AP seemlessly and only took a few changes to our existing map. Awaiting a custom pod to arrive to install this gauge and likely a boost gauge as well.

Now here is where things go a bit sideways and I should have figured as I did this to myself haha. SoCal Porting's VF48 mods are apparently flowing ALOT more air than stock. To put this into perspective, a stock VF48 is nearly maxed out on the 565cc injectors at around 18-19 PSI. This turbo is flowing so much that at 6000+ RPM's, 100% duty cycle is insufficient fuel to hold our target AFR at only 13 PSI of boost and the wastegate fully open. That is insane haha. So, needless to say, the car is drivable, but Ray advised I get injectors and keep out of WOT at redline. So, I just purchased the following:

  • IAG Billet TGV Deletes
  • Grimmspeed 3mm Phenolic spacer
  • ID 1050x Top Feed Injectors with Top Feed Conversion Kit
  • ID Fuel line kit and Injector Adapters
I was really hoping to not have to do this, just due to the expense, but it is what it is. Lesson here is that if you ANYTHING more than a stock VF48, you NEED injectors. I don't even want to mess with the intake manifold, so i'm taking it to my local subie shop (Pacific Import Auto) to take care of that. Once this has finished, i'll continue working with Ray on the tune. I knew fueling was going to be my limit here, but now we don't have to worry about that and I get the TGV delete/Phenolic spacer as well. Will report back with how it turns out, but I am already expecting a considerable bump from what Ray has already provided.
 

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Awesome stuff so far. Should be a good bit of fun once you get the injectors installed. I've been thinking about going top feed myself.

Do you mind sharing what you had to do to tap into the TGV ECU input for wideband logging on the AP. I wish I would have had this during my E-Tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
Awesome stuff so far. Should be a good bit of fun once you get the injectors installed. I've been thinking about going top feed myself.

Do you mind sharing what you had to do to tap into the TGV ECU input for wideband logging on the AP. I wish I would have had this during my E-Tune.
Sorry, didn't see this response but would be more than happy to share :).

So, your tuner will need to provide you with a tune to make this work. Basically, they use a cobb function that clones your working TGV with the one you are going to use the input from. This means the TGV's will stay in sync pending they continue working properly. If one breaks, it may make troubleshooting a bit more challenging. I was originally going to just ditch them if they broke, but now that i'm going the top feed conversion, they will be gone, so its a moot point haha.

More info on sensor duplication from cobb: https://cobbtuning.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/PRS/pages/26870441/Subaru+Custom+Sensor+Logging

I chose to use the drivers side TGV as its the easiest to get to. The plug is right near the oil dipstick and coolant overflow:



You'll want to confirm the pin out before cutting anything, but from my research, it seems all the foresters are the same. Pin 3 (Yellow/red) was the winner on my car. Once I updated the map, I cut the wire to pin 3 and soldered a new wire to it.



This new wire goes through the firewall and attaches to the +5v analog output coming from the AEM wideband. At this point, you are pretty much done. If you log the TGV Left on the AP, you'll see the voltage directly in the log. I then just use excel to convert the voltage to an AFR. For gasoline, this is as follows:

AFR = (2.375 * VOLTAGE) + 7.3125

super easy and the Ray is much happier knowing we are getting a True O2 reading. Let me know if you have any additional questions!
 

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Discussion Starter #50
A few more updates. I have my appointment scheduled for Thursday to get the TGV/Fuel related stuff done. i'm super anxious at this point to get the car back to how it was when Ray and I first started tuning!

I ended up ordering a ported and polished STi Intake manifold. I like the red and figured it wouldn't hurt to open up the intake manifold a bit more to reduce pumping losses. In that same vane, I also ordered a few parts from Amazon and performed a port and polish on my Grimmspeed Y-pipe and Throttle body.

The Y-pipe is a beauty, but man was that aluminum cast thick. I took down about 2 mm worth of material from the inlet to where it Y's using carbide bits, sanding drums, and a flexhone (which was super awesome by the way). This took the longest as there was just sooo much material to remove, but not instead of having a 3mm lip around the entrance, it has a nice smooth taper and should not only reduce turbulence, but also increase flow.

The throttle body was a piece of cake. There isn't a tone of material to remove, mostly knife edging the front and removing that little step just before the throttle plate. I was nervous doing this, but it only took about 30 minutes including cleanup. I only drove the car for a few minutes last night to confirm I didn't break anything, but I do plan on doing some pulls at lunch today so I can compare logs and see if i've gained or lost anything. My ultimate hope is the ability to reach boost sooner, so i'll report back with what the Y-pipe and TGV deletes have done by themselves.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
@Tweak3D Thanks man! I'm assuming you can still use this method with the TGV deletes, right? Or will you have to get your reading from somewhere else once you do your deletes?
Not only can you continue using it if you do TGV delete, but then you can also utilize the Passenger side input for an extra logging variable. I'm considering adding in an EGT sensor and tapping it in as its also an important piece of data that i'm missing due to removing the Uppipe EGT when I did the delete.

I believe there is a way to also utilize the input on the stock O2 sensor, but it seemed much more involved from a tuning perspective, so i'll likely leave it alone :).
 

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Awesome, thank you. Definitely going to do this when I get my car re-tuned. I had my car e-tuned, and literally had to take videos of my wideband gauge with the tachometer visible so the tuner could see what was going on during pulls. Interested to see what you do for your EGT sensor. If I got another gauge, that would probably be it.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I got the car back yesterday and its running very well. The engine bay is much cleaner getting rid of all the stock fuel lines and the TGVs frees up a lot of space.



I did however note that I have a bit more cabin noise at idle. There are 2 different sounds i'm trying to sort out at the moment. The first is almost like a diesel engine noise at idle, but very quiet (like cracking a door or window makes it too loud to hear). based on what I've read here, I believe this is a fuel damper going bad, so i'm going to replace both of them and see if that resolves it.

The other noise I am hearing thats new is when I blip the throttle, I sometimes get a buzzing noise for a brief second. Kinda hard to explain. I am assuming its also fueling related since when it does occur, the car seems to stumble a little bit. Since our tuning will be restarting, I expect some adjustmnets to be made for idling anyways, and then the fuel dampers being repalced, i'll need to see if this noise gets corrected or not.

Other than that, Car drives well, but still needs to be tuned fully as the base map is all I have at the moment. Tune should start tomorrow pending no weather issues as it decided to snow quite a bit today.

In other news, I got the replacement gauge cluster trim from ortizcustompods.com. Took about 2 weeks from ordering to deliver and arrived in mint condition. only comments are that the silver rings are not present on it and it was missing the tinted plastic sections at the top near the turn signals. I installed it anyways thinking I may remove them from my stocker, but honestly, I can barely even tell they are missing so i'm not sure if its worth the effort or not. I'll give it a few weeks and see how I feel then. Only other comment on this particular pod is if you use AEM x-series gauges, they stick out... a lot, like half and inch, so i've had to adjust my steering wheel so the gauges don't block the turn signal from operating properly. Once it warms up a bit more, i'll probably pull out my orbital sander and sand them down a bit so I can reclaim a bit of the space and move my wheel up a bit more as i'd prefer, but it will work fine for now.




I'll provide more info once the tuning has finalized!
 

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Not sure what the dampers cost, but a FPR would do away with them.
I was having similar issues, when I went to feed. Problem was the dampers (from 2011 STI)..
So I ditch the damper and put a FPR in. Problem solved!
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Not sure what the dampers cost, but a FPR would do away with them.
I was having similar issues, when I went to feed. Problem was the dampers (from 2011 STI)..
So I ditch the damper and put a FPR in. Problem solved!
I found both of them for $105 shipped brand new, so i'll start with that. I do have the OEM FPR on the vehicle, which was moved from under the Intake Manifold to the drivers side near the fuel lines. I'm assuming you installed something like the Perrin FPR? I'll look into this if the dampers don't solve the problem entirely or end up failing again. Thanks for the tip!
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Small update, I believe I found the source of my second noise. As mentioned before, the first sounds almost exactly like a failing fuel damper, so those are on order and will be replaced as soon as they arrive. The other sound that I was hearing, i'm almost positive is a belt slipping slightly. It doesn't always do it and when it does, its almost always with a throttle blip (usually when moving forward slowly). I found the noise is loud outside the car with the door/window open and is less of a buzz and more of a buzzy squeal for a split second. Pretty sure the belts came off for my Intake manifold removal and because when this happens, the lights momentarily dim, i'm going to go with it being a loose Alternator belt. Since I paid to have the work done and its not very loose, i'm just going to stop by the shop at the end of the week and have them make the adjustment to it. I'll post an update once I know that it and my fuel dampers are installed as to if those have corrected those issues.
 

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I found both of them for $105 shipped brand new, so i'll start with that. I do have the OEM FPR on the vehicle, which was moved from under the Intake Manifold to the drivers side near the fuel lines. I'm assuming you installed something like the Perrin FPR? I'll look into this if the dampers don't solve the problem entirely or end up failing again. Thanks for the tip!
Yes, I went with a Fuel Lab FPR..
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I received the replacement Fuel Dampers today from IAtuning.com. They have them for by far the best price I've seen around. They were in OEM bags along with the hoses that would usually go with them. i simply removed the hoses, pulled mine out and swapped them.

So far, all the new noises I started hearing post injector upgrade have gone away in addition to a noticeable amount of just general engine noise, so i'm thinking one of these had been going bad for a while.

As for tuning, things are going really well now with the new injectors. Its like a whole new car. We are about 8 revisions in so far and I would expect probably a similar number more to come before we are about ready to call it done. Ray from TurboTek has been so awesome to work with. I will for sure be coming back to him with any future needs for both of my XT's :).
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Tuning is almost complete. I expect to have it all wrapped up with Ray this week unless something unexpected comes up. Currently, without any brake boosting or transmission modifications, i can pull 0-60 is 4.9-5.1 seconds. Much improved over the 6.5 I was seeing before.

I have been having some rather hard shifts or shift delays from 1-2. I've been tolerating it as it has been random, but knew it was going to need to be addressed, even more so with the newly added power. I did a bunch of reading and decided to do a transmission flush. I had some of the fluid swapped out last year for the subaru atf-hp, but thats been it for this car and its 70k life so far (to my knowledge).

I decided to use the amsoil signature atf. Yes, its expensive, but from all the independent tests i've read, and the fact that its the ONLY oil IPT recommends in their race transmissions, thats good enough for me. I put my car up on the ramps and between draining the pan and replacing the filter with a new OEM AT filter, I was able to remove 6 of 10 qts. This drain took nearly an hour as it was very slow (cold weather and didn't heat up the car before hand as I didn't want to bother with removing hot fluid and trying to add back cold fluid and over or under filling.

I captured all the fluid in this cool rubbermade container: [ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000R8JOUC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame] so it was easy to see how much was removed and needed to be readded. I also installed a fumoto drain valve for easy (and cleaner) drains going forward. Same valve as the oil pan! Lastly, because I have an STI intercooler, I HAD to remove it in order to access the dipstick pipe, but this thing comes off in about 3 minutes when I take my time, so it wasn't a big deal. I also added a 3/8ths in Magnefine filter to the return line from my B&M cooler. The stock filter is probably more than sufficient, but because of the old fluid and my aggressive driving habits, I wanted to add some extra filtration.

Now, to me, ATF even brand new, smells horrid. The stuff coming out of the transmission smelt much stronger, but i'm not sure if it was burnt or not. The fluid was brown in color and not translucent at all. I took the car for a drive and it did shift a fair amount firmer. I drove for about 30 minutes, varying gears and load and then came home to let the car cool. I then performed a second drain from just the drain pan and was able to collect a little over 4 qts. I warmed the car back up and took her back out and again the shifts are firmer and the car seems to hold gears much longer/stronger than before. Its also less temperamental at sudden throttle change, just immediately downshifting as opposed to acting like an idiot like it used to.

So, based on my calculations, these 2 drain and fill cycles removed about 76% of the fluid from the transmission. I plan to leave it this way for the next week or so and to put some more miles on it, then I will do 1-2 more drain and fills to get my comfortably up into the 90% range of new fluid. My thought here is if the first drain was so dirty, I likely have some varnish and other deposits that will be loosened and released thanks to all the new fresh ATF. I am hoping I can get some of this extra crap out of the system via these extra fills/drain cycles and then just get the car back on a regular 20k cycle.

Besides just cleaning stuff up, my near future list includes the following:

-Rear Spoiler install
-IPT Valve Body Upgrade
-(maybe) IPT Torque Converter upgrade
-MPT to VTD conversion
-Exterior detail

My hope is through a valve body and/or torque converter upgrade, I can get my 0-60 down a bit more and hopefully also get my car in a position where I don't need to worry about the transmission. MPT to VTD conversion will also likely help in getting the power down to the ground in a more sporty fashion. I also really hate the way the MPT handles slipping both in the dry, but also in the rain/snow and the upgrade should correct that issue as well.
 
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