Subaru Forester Owners Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
2011 turbotek tuned fxt 4eat paddle shift
Joined
·
3,539 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A question for anyone that knows. I installed my turbo and found it has a torn oil return line. I removed it while the turbo is still on and went to napa and got a longer piece of oil line. When i try to put the new oil line on it creases and folds too much as it is not as hard as the oem piece that conforms to the bend with out folding. Is there any other trick to use this hose or am i stuck buying a $12 hose from a dealer thats 45 min away? Also would it not fold as much if i removed the turbo and installed it that way? I just can not have a restriction on my return so need some advice.
 

·
Premium Member
2011 XT Touring 4EAT
Joined
·
12,185 Posts
Could it maybe be just barely to long...can it be shortened a tad to "straighten the curve" if u will if its connected nice and solid down below and then tightened up to the turbo?

May not be the correct answer...but slightly trimming/shortening tubes like that have helped me before when they crease rather then have a smooth bend as I'm picturing from what ur saying.
 

·
Registered
2012 XT Touring AT
Joined
·
1,841 Posts
i pulled my turbo today to fix the oil return bolt leaking problem, and also replaced my hose and the hose clamps. the butterfly clamps don't even hold at all. so i used the normal screwing kind.

put the clamp and hose on the turbo first so you can tighten it easily. then as you drop turbo in line up the bottom part of the hose to the lower oil return spot.

since i used screwing clamps instead of the the pinching, it was MUCH easier to clamp the lower one with a long flathead screwdriver, rather than trying to stick long needle nose to pinch. it took mere mere moments to tighten the lower one with a long flathead.

the hose i got from orchard supply was $1.59 for a foot. 5/8" inner diameter, and the hose looked the exact same as the OEM one. black heater hose




i cut the hose about an inch longer than the OEM one, that way when i positioned the turbo, i could push the hose down further on that lower return part so i didn't have to put the clamp higher up. since the clamp spot was now lower, it was easy to use the flathead on it

A replacement for hose on most cars and light trucks. Designed for normal duty service. Withstands the abuse of corrosive solutions and additives. Resists weathering to provide a long, trouble-free service life. EPDM tube construction. Black, with spiralpolyester reinforcement construction. Resists temperatures from -40 to 212 degrees Fahrenheit.
 

·
Registered
2002 ES300
Joined
·
4,412 Posts
Not all rubber hoses are created equal. Some are specifically made for certain oils, fuel, or other fluids. If you don't use the right one or buy 'any ol hose', it could break down prematurely. Nate, with your build, I'm surprised you wouldn't spring for an oem line.
 

·
Registered
2011 turbotek tuned fxt 4eat paddle shift
Joined
·
3,539 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The one i got from napa was for oil and was $10 a foot so quality was not a issue. I then went to the dealer today and the oem hose was the same as the one from napa and just as foldable. They said that the reason my original was so ridged was that it was just heated so many times it hardend in that position. He then told me the napa hose would work but i need to pull the turbo to get it to line up with out folding. My solution was a old samco hose i had laying around that had a nice curve to it and was twice as ridged. I cut it to length and used some worm clamps and it worked like a dream with no removal of the turbo.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top