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Registered
2004 Forester XT 4EAT
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177 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a VF39 turbo ready to install once the oil dump stem of the turbo arrives. I have just installed my Helix uppipe and was thinking if it's do-able to uninstall my TD04 and replace it with the VF39 without having to remove the uppipe. There's 5 bolts that hold the turbo to the uppipe. Take these off after taking the downpipe off. Then disconnect the oil and coolant lines. Is that it???

My question is: Is it easy to install a turbo through the top?
 

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BLUE WASABI, (#2 Info Provider)
2008 SG Model D
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9,051 Posts
kickin_81 said:
I have a VF39 turbo ready to install once the oil dump stem of the turbo arrives. I have just installed my Helix uppipe and was thinking if it's do-able to uninstall my TD04 and replace it with the VF39 without having to remove the uppipe. There's 5 bolts that hold the turbo to the uppipe. Take these off after taking the downpipe off. Then disconnect the oil and coolant lines. Is that it???

My question is: Is it easy to install a turbo through the top?
Installing a turbo is not a simple venture but my turbo was installed through the top. Not sure how easy it would be to take the turbo w/ the uppipe still attached to it out at the same time? It isn't that hard to just take the uppipe off since you will be removing it anyways. Good luck.
 

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2006 RX8
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423 Posts
When I de-installed my VF23 and re-installed my stock turbo on my 02 WRX I did it from the top without dropping the up-pipe. Obviously the DP has to be dropped back a bit to clear, and I am sure that there were other items that I cleared out of the way, but as I re-call it was actually a very simple process. Sorry I can't recall more details, but that was in 02 and I have been through seven cars since.

Jeff :)
 

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2004 Forester XT 4EAT
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177 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I figure it wouldn't be very difficult because the uppipe contacts the turbo horizontally and the oil and water lines can be worked with from the top and side. What scares me is the oil inlet line. It's fragile and if it gets bent, it'll take another hour or two to install it correctly or a replacement line will be needed. Anyway, thanks for the reassurance guys. :D
 

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Aspiring Post Ho
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267 Posts
I do not know how you would install the turbo from the bottom of the car. I have swapped my turbo out a couple of times and always gone from the top. Yes, disconnect the dp all together, undo the bolts to the up pipe, disconnect the silicon lines and the bajo bolts on the turbo and vac. lines. Just make sure you plug the coolant lines or crimp them off so that they do not drain every where. Remember the oil line on the bottom. I found that when you reinstall that it is easier to have the connector on the tube already and connected to the turbo. Honestly I think I can now pull the turbo and put a new one in in about 1.5 hours. Guess it just comes with doing it a few times and figuring out the little tricks here and there. It is not that bad but having an extra set of hands is a great idea!
 
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I've done a couple of these now and on average 4 hours and that's being flat out. The longest time is getting ALL the bolts undone and getting access to the engine.

Up-pipe has stayed put both time, however dump has been complete removed.

I suspect time would be quicker if the beasts were on hoists, but as I am a home mech no such things exist.

Having probably 4 hose crimpers would be ideal to stop the coolent etc from going places and saves having to wait for it all to drain.

Best tool I used last time was a ratchet ring spanner, 10mm one works an absolute treat for the heat shield.
 

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2006 RX8
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423 Posts
I second Damwagn's comments on clamping the coolant lines. I used pieces of rubber hose slipped over the jaws of two sets of needle-nose channel locks. No damage to the coolant lines, and if you use strategically placed plastic bags to catch the small amount out of the turbo coolant fitting the mess is nearly eliminated. Once the new turbo is in place, just re-connect and re-clamp, and release the channel locks. You have to make sure to bleed the system afterwards, but it truly is a simple project.

Jeff
 

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2004 Forester XT 4EAT
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177 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Can't we just use plugs to plug them up? Something like cone earplugs (used... new... whatever). They're cheap and non-porous. When my mechanic installed my uppipe and took off the turbo at the same time, several cups of coolant came out. He mentioned that the coolant reservoir was the highest point on the coolant system. Being that the turbo's coolant line is connected right to this, a lot of the coolant just drains out of the hose. :? It took close to a gallon of coolant to recoup what spilled on the floor.

Because this time the turbo will be swapped at home, I don't want to have to lift the car/wagon and mess with the stuff underneath again. A pain in the butt!
 
G

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You can plug the hoses and use the clamps to hold the plugs in place. Another option would be to use rubber chair/table leg ends.

I suspect it would be hard/impossible not to remove the turbo without getting under the car as you have to get access to bolts on the heat shield and the dump to be able to remove it and the only access to some of these is from underneath.
 
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