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2000 SF5 JDM S/TB 5MT
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270 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
iv stumbled across a tuning and datalogging program called Rom Raider. has anyone heard of it? myself and my uncle are the only people using it in nz as far as im aware, sadly he passed on but iv got a couple of his tuning maps. has anyone else heard of this?
 

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2004 Forester XT
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320 Posts
iv stumbled across a tuning and datalogging program called Rom Raider. has anyone heard of it? myself and my uncle are the only people using it in nz as far as im aware, sadly he passed on but iv got a couple of his tuning maps. has anyone else heard of this?
Romraider is awesome stuff.

Here's a link to the site if you don't already have it.

RomRaider • Index page

Read through the faqs, buy the tuning books they mention, and you'll find you can learn a ton about these cars.

Just take your time with it. And don't touch tables until you fully understand what each one does, you really can ruin your motor with a few careless mouse clicks.

If you need any advice feel free to pm me or post up the question on here. There doesn't seem to be a ton of us that do our own tuning on this board, but the ones who do have offered great advice to me in the past.
 

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05 FXT
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1,540 Posts
Another user and abuser here. As MarkTheShark mentioned, there's not too many foz owners messing with it themselves, but the ones that are have gone pretty far with it and are willing to help out. Feel free to post in here with any questions once you get rolling into it.
 

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Registered
2000 SF5 JDM S/TB 5MT
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270 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
mean. iv got an ecu rom for a 2003 wrx sti jdm spec, running 22.5psi boost, or just on 2 bar.

basis on a jamacan drag car, managed 240kw on pump gas (98) and a hks super silent exhaust.
hoping i can hook the program up to my foz, but i dont think so. the older ecu's im aware have a terrible issue with "bricking"
 

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2004 Subaru FXT MT
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1,841 Posts
mean. iv got an ecu rom for a 2003 wrx sti jdm spec, running 22.5psi boost, or just on 2 bar.

basis on a jamacan drag car, managed 240kw on pump gas (98) and a hks super silent exhaust.
hoping i can hook the program up to my foz, but i dont think so. the older ecu's im aware have a terrible issue with "bricking"
I've tuned 4-5 02/03's, and many more other years. Flashed my own 02 probably 20-30 times. Never bricked.

I use romraider all of the time...Use Ecuflash to flash.
 

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2007 Forester XT Sports 5 speed
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170 Posts
Romraider is good, a little difficault to get setup at first with the xml files. Amazing amount of information for a free program.

Don't panic on your first reflash, it takes 5 or six cranks to get it started. Also it won't be as fast since the IAM is back to a safe setting. a good amount of boost in second gear will help it climb to top setting.

I splurged and went for the ECUedit program, it is so easy to view logs and it can live trace the maps. Also has great features for compring maps and logs.

Don't be overwhelmed by all the tables, start with what you know and go slow with modifying things.
 

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06 FXT-6MT happening
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341 Posts
Romraider is good, a little difficault to get setup at first with the xml files. Amazing amount of information for a free program.

Don't panic on your first reflash, it takes 5 or six cranks to get it started. Also it won't be as fast since the IAM is back to a safe setting. a good amount of boost in second gear will help it climb to top setting.

I splurged and went for the ECUedit program, it is so easy to view logs and it can live trace the maps. Also has great features for compring maps and logs.

Don't be overwhelmed by all the tables, start with what you know and go slow with modifying things.
(The part in red).

The reason it takes a while to start after you reflash is because you are not listening (and waiting) for the audible "click-click" that you hear coming from your glove box area BEFORE you try and crank it.

When you reflash, and then unhook the test mode connectors, most people grab the ignition key and try to start it really quick.
That is the WRONG way to do it.

What you SHOULD be doing is turning the ignition key to the on position and listening for the audible clicks that indicate the ECU has reset itself after being flashed.

That only happens once the ECU gets power (key on).

So, when you go straight to cranking after a reflash, the ECU still has to reset itself during the time you are cranking, which makes it seem like it takes forever to get started, when in reality, you are going about it the wrong way.

There are 2 audible notifications the ecu will give you when you are messing with it.

One click can be heard when you power off the ECU.

TWO clicks can be heard when you turn the power on AFTER a reflash or an ECU reset.

This is how people brick ecu's

BE very careful when flashing or resetting your ecu, it is a delicate flower and needs to be treated as such for long life and hours of enjoyment.

Another good note to be aware of is NOT ALL model years react the same.

As an example,

Pre 05 ecu's need to be reset (manually) even after a reflash to clear learned fuel trims.

06 forward are generally reset when you flash which effectively clears all learned fuel trims, however, I use "learning view" to do an ecu reset after I have flashed a new rom with fuel or air based changes (maf or open loop fuel table modifications).

This way I know I am starting fresh and allowing the ecu to "learn" new A, B, C, D trims.

Now with that being said, "getting into high boost" does nothing for fuel trims immediately after a flash.
In fact, you need to cruise with steady state throttle in each of the ranges to allow the ecu to adjust using the data in each of the A, B, C or D ranges.

You can learn a lot about this stuff by asking questions over on RomRaider.....AFTER you have read the stickies and wiki for days and days and days, so you can ask the right questions without seeming like a complete noob.

Great free tools are available and work wonderfully when you can wrap your head around them a bit.

Then, reach out and ask for help BEOFRE you do anything that may damage your car or brick your ECU.

On another note:
You can force IAM to be at 1.00 AFTER a reset by modifying that table in RomRaider and saving the rom and then reflashing it to your ECU.
When I know I am doing a lot of flashing and modifications to my tune, I set the "advance multiplier (initial)" table to 1.00 so that after a flash, I am already at 1.0 instead of .5 so I dont have to wait for the car to learn everything.

The ecu will still pull timing if it senses knock, however the multiplier will be 1.0 instead of .5 when everything settles back down, you are NOT effectively eliminating the failsafe by setting it to 1.00

That trick is NOT for everyone,
You need to be sure your car is det free and knock free under higher load when using that workaround.

RomRaider to log
RomRaider or EcuFlash to modify roms
EcuFlash to flash roms to the ecu
LearningView to check for FLKC and A-B-C-D fuel trims
 
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