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2004 Forester XT
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937 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been searching the site for a while and just can't find it anywhere if there is one. Maybe I just don't want to find it. :)

Also, I have the exhaust collectors and crossover pulled down to address another issue. Is the removal of these parts part of the procedure? I'd rather get the headers back on before attempting the timing belt. I don't want the car too far apart.

Thanks!
 

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2001 Forester 4EAT
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842 Posts
I watched this guys tutorial a couple times and it was a snap. (Granted I think he did it on a WRX which doesn't have ACVS but that doesn't change affect too much)
 

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05 Forester XT 06 STI V9 Spec-C Six Speed
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815 Posts
^ plus 1, did the same and also read a few things too, he has a write up also. changed mine with not too many issues...mainly my fault.
 

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2004 Forester XT 2.5 Auto
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76 Posts
Anyone know if GATES timing belts are any good? i also am doing a timing belt change.
 

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2010 Forester 2.5 XPremium 4EAT
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863 Posts
This video also has some good instructional content on timing belt replacement.


 

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2005 600whp forester group N Sti 6 speed
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434 Posts
Anyone know if GATES timing belts are any good? i also am doing a timing belt change.
yes they are. both the black regular version and the blue kevlar racing version. make sure when doing a timing belt that you have everything lined up properly before pulling the tensioner pin. I also STRONGLY recommend a company 23 cam lock tool so that the drivers side cams dont move due to valve pressure.

lastly, make sure that the timing belt guide above the crank sprocket (If you have manual tranny car only) has proper gap. usually .7 to 1mm clearance is what you want. gates includes a plastic spacing tool to check for this, but I'd also check it with a feeler gauge just to be safe. also, make sure that you only turn the crank CLOCKWISE as going counter clockwise can cause it to skip teeth on the timing belt and put everything in a crap position.

If you are replacing the water pump or oil pump when you're in there, make sure that you have a torque wrench that is in IN/LBS as the mounting bolts for both are extremely light torque (oil pump is only 4.7 ft/lbs, and the water pump is 8.7 ft/lbs.) both very light and you'll can accidentally snap them very easy if you get in a hurry. you'll then have to use pliers to get the broken bits back out of the block and start over with new bolts (ask me how I know:chair:)

I prefer meaty's timing belt replacement guide over on nasioc. good stuff in there as well as the last youtube video of subaru mechanic mike putting heads on a block. he explains a lot while setting the timing especially about putting the pulley's on in a certain order......same thing in meaty's guide.

meaty's guide, videos also in link:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1794043
 

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2004 Forester XT Auto
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3 Posts
I did one on a customers car a few weeks ago (was an 04 XT) took about 2 hours. This is what I did, going by memory here so I may be off on a few things but it's pretty obvious when you get in there.

Basically:
1- Remove rad fan assembly (2 connectors and if I remember correctly 2 cooling hoses are clipped into it at the bottom, just move them aside.
2- Move Coolant overflow tank to the side (just pull out the hose)
3 - Remove accessory belts (power steering and AC)
4 - Remove Crank pulley, you're going to need a pulley holder to hold the crank pulley while you break the nut
5- Remove crank pulley
6 - Remove 3 plastic covers (timing covers)
7 - Rotate crankshaft until timing marks line up with where you want them. (Let me know if you need a diagram)
8 - Remove belt guide or tensioner and take the belt off.
9 - Installation is reverse of removal.

A few notes to make it easier:
- I put an allen key in a socket to hold the 2-4 intake pulley in place, it's going to want to spin on you because it is under tension from the valves.
- Start at the 2-4 intake pulley, then 2-4 exhaust, then 1-3 intake, then 1-3 exhaust (if I remember correctly, may be wrong )
-Install tensioner and pull pin when you're absolutely sure everything is lined up.
-I used a Dayco kit, timing belt had marks on it to count the teeth between the pulleys, this made everything a lot easier.
- Also the component kit I had had a mistake? in it, one of the guide pulleys was sized slightly different so the ended up being too long (bearing was offset on the new one by about .25")


Hope this helps,
Eric
 
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