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2004 Forester XT 4EAT
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BTW, same engine* in '98 as the '97-'98 Legacy Outback, GT, SUS and '98 Impreza RS, so you can use the info from those models on other forums on what to replace for a maintenance items, too.

- Check your oil pump's REAR screws and you'll need to replace the O-ring if you do this.
- May need to replace the oil sender as they leak.
- Cam and Crank seals may be leaking. Crank is easy - part of the oil pump - Cams...not so much.

This SITE is a good resource for instructions and part numbers, too....beware it's PG-13 due to the site design.

*Technically, the EJ25D was used from '96-'99 in the USA Outback/GT/SUS, but the '96 and '99 are unique.
 

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2004 Forester XT 4EAT
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'bleeding the tensioner' doesn't compute....where are you finding that info?

What people do is 'Compress' the tensioner as described in the FSM/factory service manual (and maybe Haynes). It must be done w/the tensioner in a specific orientation AND @ a speed - not too fast....or you'll break it.

However, I HIGHLY encourage you to replace it w/new - especially if it's the 'new' style as they are more prone to breaking/failing BEFORE THE BELT. Then all you do is install it, triple-check your timing marks, etc. and pull the pin to release.


The '98 was change-over year for some Subaru parts so there may be 2 different tensioners:

Most likely it's the one on the left.
 

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2004 Forester XT 4EAT
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Is it necessary ? I should be taking the belt covers off later in the week and then I'll order the parts. If I need to do the compress thing I will need to by a vise.
Is what necessary?

Compressing SLOWLY yes, but 3x? That's news to me - Only ever done it once on the 10 or so Tbelts I've done..but I'm not a mechanic.

And you can get creative, I've used C-clamps....depending on the style of tensioner.

GL,
Td
 

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2004 Forester XT 4EAT
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No offense, but are you reading a Subaru manual? :)

There is no seal on the HB, but will guess it's the front CRANK seal? It is part of the oil pump. Which you should do anyway.

READ THIS LINK (note that the webpage graphics are PG-13). It's for a 2.2 Legacy / OB but the same as your '98 EJ25D.


I've never gone as deep as the website does on accessing the rotors. If your car has questionable oil changes and/or any sludge in the pump, you'd probably want to clean it out.

But I just pull the pump, REMOVE the crank seal, tighten those Philips head screws, install a new o-ring and reseal it per the diagram - don't over tighten the oil pump 10mm bolts...they'll snap right off. Then install a new Crank seal after the pump if installed.

O-ring for Oil pump: 806919050

Crank seal: 806733030

Good luck.
TD
 

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Those pics are of the crankshaft sprocket (gear) that sits on the crankshaft, which is directly in front of the oil pump and the oil pump is what the crank seal is installed into.

The part numbers are in my previous post.

If you watch this, you'll see the water pump being installed then the oil pump. This is an EJ22T (turbo) but the process is the same for yours. NOTE the video shows the engine w/OUT the cylinder heads (short block) attached, and if you start the video @ the beginning the engine is upside down.

And here's an exploded view of that part of the engine. #5 - bottom left is the crank seal:
 
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