[Mr Blotto]

OK - had some odd sounds for a while in the rear, and spent some time this weekend trying to nail it down. After about 15 minutes of highway driving, I start to get a noise in the rear (I think from the right side) that sound much like the noise that a key making machine makes (kind of a high-pitched scrape/squeel). The noise becomes most pronouned when going into a left-hand curve, and almost goes away when on a right-hand curve.

The sound will also go away when you touch the brakes.

One time, the "key machine" sound was replaced by a sound that resembled a very light rumble strip (kind of a pulsating groaning sound).

Because of the noise be most pronounced on a left-hand cruve, I deducted that it was the right wheel bearing. Am I correct?

Thanks

 

[SubieHo]

Sounds like your brakes. It's the wear indicator tabs scraping against the rotor that causes this noise.

 

[AlleyCat]

Agree to checks binders right on. Any lateral loading will have the brake disc/rotor make noise on that wheel due to 'cocking', esp on older vehicle where the brake rotors or shoes may have rust or weardown. A really bad beaing will make rumbling & howling ("snow tyre noise") noise moving straight on. But I would say right turn would load the LEFT rear bearing which is the outside wheel in the turn. Jack it up and start wiggling the wheels and phone in.

 

[Mr Blotto]

Hi All - Just wanted to put this one to bed. Turns out it WAS the right rear wheel bearing. It must have been in the early stages of going out. After one highway romp, I put my hand on the left rear hub, and then the right rear hub, and noticed that the right one was way hotter than the other.

$400 later, new bearing, no more noise!

Thanks for all your help/suggestions.

 

[AlleyCat]

400 for a wheel bearing? i goto go and work as a mech again! Good you checked temp - forgot that trick.

 

[AJ711]

400 for a wheel bearing? i goto go and work as a mech again! Good you checked temp - forgot that trick.

1) Jack car up
2) remove wheel on hub in question
3) remove hub nut, the large nut that sits on the end of the shaft, kinda a PITA, you'll need a cheater bar
4) remove hub, again a PITA as the bushings may have welded themselves to the hub or bolts due to corrosion
5) with hub off vehicle, press out bad bearing
6) press in new bearing, seals and grease
7) reverse process above to put everything back together

Bearings and seals will run $80-100, and the rest will be labor. It isn't a fun job. Showing up with the hubs already off will save you probably $150-200 or so, but don't quote me on that.

Depending on the condition of the hub, mileage and how long the bearing has been "bad", it may be beneficial to replace the entire assembly. Case and point, my '98 RS. I replaced the rear bearings not too long ago and the hubs are so old and worn out from other bad bearings that they're just eating them like snacks. I'll end up replacing all 4 hubs to make it an economical fix and drive the car (hopefully) another 80k miles before they go bad again. We'll see.

 

[mrr1]

my wifes forester needs a new rear bearing. The garage wasn't able to get the hub off - seized bolts. Can anyone offer advice or is it simply lots of penetrating oil and big whacks with as big hammer??

:icon_sad::icon_sad::icon_sad::icon_sad:

 

[flstffxe]

my wifes forester needs a new rear bearing. The garage wasn't able to get the hub off - seized bolts. Can anyone offer advice or is it simply lots of penetrating oil and big whacks with as big hammer??

:icon_sad::icon_sad::icon_sad::icon_sad:

You just answered your own question:icon_biggrin: Many times the lower bolt needs to be cut off then the pieces pounded out once the hub is of the car.