[Duderotomy]

Now if you made those with one of the gasket ends clocked to match the N/A exhaust orientation, then you'd have something you could market!
It'd give a less complicated solution to the N/A flange orientation and allow all those guys to use WRX cat-backs without relying on a muffler shop to hack the hangers up and extend any pipes.

 

[Tuned200]

Could be made easy enough. If I find a local who wants to help me figure this out I will make it for those who need it.

 

[2.5x_sleeper]

WOW. nice work! Your pictures make me dizzy. :icon_eek:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]

 

[Tuned200]

Sorry. I will work on that and get back with you.

Check back later for more updates and more mods. All of the overtime I have been working = more mod money.

 

[2.5x_sleeper]

I'm just giving you a bad time! Looking forward to more MODs. :wink:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]

 

[Tuned200]

Sunroof tint.

With the aid of those who have done this I have decided since our 2010 is done its time to have the 2007 done as well. I freaking love it so far.

Standard pre tint view.

At the tint shop. They are a small business, but for $40 cash, they are good.

Same view at home for comparison

 

[Tuned200]

Picked up a set of Kartboy rear subframe bolts. Waiting to install these until next weekend.

 

[Team Scream]

The tint looks great Tuned!!!!

Man, seeing your fantastic ride makes me really want to get a set of Sports tail lights.

That is really the only thing missing to complete the look of my ride.

Your car looks great bro,

 

[SubieOutlaw]

DO you have a grounding kit on either Foz?

 

[Tuned200]

Team. Thanks for the kind words. It means a lot.

Steve. No grounding kit for either. Do you have one.

 

[Team Scream]

I put a grounding kit on my WRX and honestly, I did not notice or experience anything positive from the exercise.
I'm not convinced it is a necessary or even worthwhile mod?

 

[scubadoober]

I put a grounding kit on my WRX and honestly, I did not notice or experience anything positive from the exercise.
I'm not convinced it is a necessary or even worthwhile mod?

There is really only one way to know, break out the multimeter and check for voltage difference between various points and the positive terminal. If you show a difference above noise then an extra ground will help, otherwise I agree they are pointless. I ran an extra ground to one of the MAF screws (that was the only place that showed any difference).

 

[Tuned200]

Good advice guys. I tend to stay away from electrical work but I have made a few exceptions.

 

[Tuned200]

Rear sway bar and endlinks fail.

I picked up the FXT last Friday from the dealer after discovering it needed a new Rear Diff. So that’s fixed and on my 3 mile drive home I notice something doesn’t feel right. The car stays parked and we take the 2010 up to Mid Ohio on Saturday. Sunday while driving the FXT and making an off camber turn into a driveway I hear a loud bang. I hop out and don’t see anything so we go on our way to visit family for Fathers day.

When we are leaving I notice the drivers side is sitting on the wheelwell, and pass side is jacked up. A craw under the car shows that ½ the STI RSB flipped and wrapped the OEM endlinks around the LCA. Great. LOL

After removing the STI RSB I realize that the bar is bent. Great. So a call to Tony B at TiC sourced a used whiteline 24mm rsb and the KB16 kit to prevent the tabs from breaking off. I wont say what the cost was but lets say it was cheaper than Kartboy Endlinks alone for both parts. Ringer gave me a set of whiteline endlinks so now begins the task of installing these. While im under there I plan to add KartBoy subframe locking bolts. I realize that this is a huge RSB and with the stock FSB in place it will cause handing concerns. I plan to upgrade it as well and go to Kartboy endlinks on all 4 corners.

 

[Tuned200]

Reserved for whiteline installed photos

 

[Tuned200]

Wiring the CDM HID leveler switches.

I sat out a few weeks ago to wire up my CDM level switches. A trip to Home Depot for wires and loom/ heat shrink and I set out to build my own harness.

Here are a few photos along the way. My goal is a clean look that looks OEM but for a fraction of the costs. Total spent so far is under $50. I think I broke my level switch and If I did the cost will increase by $70 more but it happens.

I want to thank Bobby(2.5x_sleeper) for his help with routing the wiring.

Onto the photos.

Wiring near the leveler plug

Tucked up under the radiator support.

Extra wiring looped for the drivers side leveler.

Ran along the frame rail towards the fire wall.

Ran thru the opening that Bobby suggested.

Pulled thru the firewall.

And ran to the switch location.

My next issue is finding super small connectors to connect to the levelers on the headlamps.

 

[Tuned200]

Mid Ohio photos here

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbull...l-tire-grand-am-race-photos-76715/#post851227

 

[2.5x_sleeper]

Wow! You really twisted those rear linkends! I'm running a COBB 25mm RSB with the stock linkends & so far they're working perfectly.

Good to see you've had time for MODding! I was starting to think you were spending all your time working! :wink:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]

 

[Tuned200]

Wow! You really twisted those rear linkends! I'm running a COBB 25mm RSB with the stock linkends & so far they're working perfectly.

Good to see you've had time for MODding! I was starting to think you were spending all your time working! :wink:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]

Twisted is an understatement. The drivers side was wrapped around the control arm....

Working is what I do, been doing 60 hours a week for the last month+. No end in sight either. But I do still have time for mods. I just finished installing the whiteline 24mm rsb and endlinks/lca tab braces. Im waiting to put the exhaust back on until I get the subframe locking bolts installed. I need to get a tap to clean the rust from the threads.

 

[Canonshooter]

Use anti-seieze compound on the locking bolts, and don't force them. Use PB Blaster with the tap and get the threads cleaned up as much as possible.

If you had a rear alignmnet done in the past, I would have it checked again as the toe may be uneven with the sub frame now properly centered and secured.