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2014 2.0XT Premium CVT
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Snitm- Did you also have the dealer check the other 3 clamps mentioned by Danoz (between airflow meter and before turbo), and perform ECU reset?
 

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2014 Forester XT Touring Automatic CVT
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68 Posts
I did ask, but I cannot be certain they did check the 3 other clamps... I should've explicitly asked the tech when he completed the work but forgot to. Looks like I'd have to pull the wheel-well rubber guard to get access to at least 2 of those clamps. Or I suppose I could call the dealer and ask to talk to the tech...

They re-flashed the ECU at the same time. So I'd imagine they did reset it. But to be sure I pulled the negative on my battery and reset the ECU myself.
 

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2013 Forester XT CVT
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237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
XT seems responsive, etc. But I really didn't have "issues" that needed fixing like you guys in Australia, etc. I had Subaru replace the clamps as a preventative measure. One concern I had with doing so is that I'd create an issue (self fulfilling prophecy).

But before the Breeze clamps were installed I tested the FXT on relatively flat road (didn't find a sustained hill near me until later). I was consistently bursting to 16-17 psi, but holding around 15psi.

Now, when testing with the Breeze clamps I rarely get to 17psi. I do however burst to 16psi and hold at 14-15psi when keeping manual 3rd gear up a sustained incline. I know 16psi is considered the ideal sweet-spot but it seems I'm just shy of that.

It may just be that I now know what my FXT can do now after having been pushing the turbo with this testing, but it does feel quicker. And the turbo is more audible than it was without the Breeze clamps (I can hear it spool-up more noticeably).

So all said, please tell me how you think I'm doing. Is there potential that some clamps still aren't tight enough since I'm not quite getting to sustained 16psi?
Mate, the 16psi is Subarus quoted max boost for the car. So that would be ideal, but as was mentioned by Geojosh there are a number of factors that come into play. Its never going to be spot on 16 all the time. But if you are sustaining 15 psi then thats OK I would say. 17 PSI is overshooting max boost. Also take into account after an ECU reset the car is in like a safe learning mode, so it uses a base map of conservative ignition timing, cam advance and wastegate settings until it learns how far it can push things. Just give a few more days or half to a full tank before checking clamp tightness. You CAN overtighten the clamps and cause leaks. Trust me, I have done it.

I reckon, be patient, wait a bit and see how things develop. Let me know OK? I will help wherever I can. Definitely more turbo noise there hey?!?! I like it! :)
 

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2014 2.0XT Premium CVT
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You CAN overtighten the clamps and cause leaks. Trust me, I have done it.
Hi Danoz- say, I'm curious. . is there visual buckling when one overtightens the clamps, or can it be more subtle, requiring you to deduce there is overtightening based on observed PSI behaviour?

Thanks!
 

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2014 2.0XT Touring CVT
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Looks like I'm going to order some boxes of 10, so I want to make sure I get the right ones. Sorry for the massive multiquote, but I think it illustrates my confusion.
The website that danozmax references says the H is used for 1/2" clamps, which I guess should be just under 13mm if they're strict about it...the non-H clamps are 9/16", which would be just over 14mm. I'd hope a mm or so wouldn't be a deal breaker, but I believe I should be ordering the H clamps at 1/2" wide, am I right?
Thanks again to danozmax for bringing this to our attention.
 

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2014 2.0XT Premium CVT
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Danoz is the authority here, but despite my earlier statement of the clamps I ordered NOT being the H model, I went back and looked at my order and noticed buried in the description of the amazon part # in the e-description, it DID show an H. That jives with the description of the dimensions both on the box and in the amazon description which both listed the width as 1/2". The non-H models are listed as 9/16" width, so I believe the H models are the correct ones as being 13mm wide they are dimensionally closer to 1/2" (12.7mm) than 9/16" (14mm) non-H.
 

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I hope danozmax pops back in to confirm, but it sounds like he's saying the slightly narrower band is definitely the way to go. I won't worry too much about H/no H as long as the width of the band is made clear as 1/2". I'm not going in for my oil change/ECU reflash/etc for some time, so no huge hurry on my order (as long as the clamps don't sell out nationwide due to panicky '14 XT owners!!!).
 

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2013 Forester XT CVT
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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Hi Guys, The band width is very important. It needs to be 1/2" or 12mm. anything larger than that the clamp will not fit under the rubber flaps of the insulators or rubber boots. Another thing, remeber to locate the screw mechanism in the same position and direction as the original subaru clamps were. There is a little arrow and some tabs that is rests against. Here is a pic of how it should be before tightening... you will also see the flaps and why the band width is very important.
 

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2014 Forester XT CVT - EyeSight
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Hey guys, I'm in Canada and I only could really find once place to order and shipping is $25, so total is around $75 and there will be custom charges via UPS shipping. So I estimate it'll cost me $100 for 10 of each of these.

I'm willing to split by selling a set of 2 of each clamps (total of 6) for $20.00, should be nothing to cost to ship these in Canada via bubble wrap, not sure about to US.

Does anyone want to buy some off me? Just PM me
 

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2013 Forester XT CVT
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237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Does anyone know if this got fixed for the 2015s?
No mate, its not fixed. About two weeks ago I visited a Subaru dealer and they are still Tridon brand clamps used. Also it appears the new WRX has the same clamps. The software update issued here in Aus by Subaru merely masks the symptoms of the fault (severe ping on boost, clouds of smoke, severe loss of power) and winds back performance accordingly. NOTHING has been revised or fixed.

I think this is not a problem that will be going away soon. But at least we know what it is and how to fix it, NOT through any help from Subaru honoring their warranty obligations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Thank you pt. :) I just wish for people to enjoy their car. Subaru has been no help at all and I am very angry about that. People do not deserve to be brushed aside by a large car company because they have a complaint about a defective product. I hope I do help some people.
 

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2014 XTP Fancy Rubber Band
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Has anyone looked into using t-bolt clamps like these?

Standard T-Bolt Band Clamps | Clampco Products

Personally, you're still taking one style of worm gear clamp and replacing it with another - the advantage with t-bolt clamps is once you set a clamping force on them, it's set, no worries of any possible loosening later at all. I have not done it yet myself, I only have 1k miles, and all the clamps are very tight. However when it does happen, this will be the route I go.
 

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(Australian spec) 2019 MY19 Outback 3.6R CVT.
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See here & danozmax’s following post.

If the T clamps came in 1/2” widths then you may be able to fit one at the TMIC inlet but I can’t see how you could fit these at the TMIC outlet & at the throttlebody inlet & still retain the rubber sealing insulators.

BTW - In addition to the advantages of the Breeze liner clamps that danozmax has mentioned; if you clamp a Breeze liner clamp & the standard Tridon clamp around the very ends of two identical tubes then look at the end view, you will see that the Breeze liner is superior to the Tridon, especially the part underneath & either side of the worm screw housing.
The design underneath the worm drive housing of the Tridon clamp damages the plastic intercooler to throttlebody pipe. The more it is tightened the more the pipe is damaged, so I would be very wary about tightening the Tridon clamps too firmly.
 

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I apparently skipped that part of the thread sorry.... There are t-bolt style clamps available in .5” just not that particular manufacturer. Was just thinking of that due to my dislike of worm gear clamps, going back to my turbo neon days.

I guess perhaps it will be of moot point if/when someone comes out with alternative (non-plastic) tubing...
 

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(Australian spec) 2019 MY19 Outback 3.6R CVT.
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Worm screw type clamps aren’t my favourite type of clamp either, but compared to the stock Tridon clamps the Breeze Liner clamps are very good clamps. The T-bolt clamps would probably fit quite ok over the rubber hoses between the air filter box & the turbo inlet - the 4 stock Norton clamps fitted in this area are 9/16” wide.

I don’t think the soft plastic hose & sealing insulators fitted between the TMIC & throttlebody is too bad a design, the problem is the original clamps.
From what I have read, the rubber sealing insulator fitted to some LGTs (I think some Gen 5 LGTs) had problems with the sealing insulators. Going by the photos I have seen of the LGT ones, the ones fitted to the Australian FA20DIT Foz XTs are a revised version having quite a number of small ribs running around the inside of the insulator, whereas the ones on the LGTs don’t appear to have these. Time will tell if this is a success.
 

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2015 Forester XT Touring CVT
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See here & danozmax’s following post.

If the T clamps came in 1/2” widths then you may be able to fit one at the TMIC inlet but I can’t see how you could fit these at the TMIC outlet & at the throttlebody inlet & still retain the rubber sealing insulators.

BTW - In addition to the advantages of the Breeze liner clamps that danozmax has mentioned; if you clamp a Breeze liner clamp & the standard Tridon clamp around the very ends of two identical tubes then look at the end view, you will see that the Breeze liner is superior to the Tridon, especially the part underneath & either side of the worm screw housing.
The design underneath the worm drive housing of the Tridon clamp damages the plastic intercooler to throttlebody pipe. The more it is tightened the more the pipe is damaged, so I would be very wary about tightening the Tridon clamps too firmly.

Honestly on my old LGT we would just ditch those rubber sealing insulators and have no detrimental effects. I wish I never sold all my leftover t-bolt clamps so I could have at least given it a shot.
 
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