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The BattleWagon -- Mud's Outback

154455 Views 761 Replies 62 Participants Last post by  abacall
12
On the road again... lifted, loud, and angrier than ever.

Car: MY'00 Outback (Base) 4EAT w/premium sound + Rear limited-slip differential (oddball option on the car)
Purchase Date: 8/14/2000
Purchase Location: Bremerton, WA
Mileage: 176,000, and counting (updated 1/5/12)

Mods: Updated 1/5/12

**Engine and Trans**
-Full 3" intake setup w/torque box mod, snorkel coming soon
-Borla replica UEL header, ported/polished
-Gutted stock catpipe
-Custom stainless 2.25" catback tucked into trans tunnel, glasspack muffler
-Painted stock intake mani wrinkle black
-Valve covers and injector guards shot in gloss black
-Ported/Gasket matched intake manifold
-Gasket matched and shaved heads (higher C/R)
-Gates Racing Timing Belt
-FelPro PermaTorque MLS head gaskets
-NGK Iridium Plugs
-Injectors cleaned, tested to new condition
-STI GroupN engine mounts
-Fully rebuilt 4EAT w/mods
-Centre diff lock switch
-Radiator fan shutoff switch (coming w/snorkel)
-Prosport Oil Pressure Gauge
-Prosport Oil Temperature Gauge
-Prosport Water Temperature Gauge
-Scangauge II displaying TPS, Water Temp, IAT, and Bat. Voltage
-Air conditioning delete (including condenser, etc)
-Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 engine oil
-Wix 51365 Oil Filter
-Subaru ATF-HP auto trans fluid
-Subaru OEM 4EAT filter

**Suspension and Rolling Stock**
-KYB GR-2 Struts
-Subaru OEM Subaru Baja front springs and Subtle Solutions spacers (+2" lift)
-RalliTEK Heavy Duty Rear Springs (+2" lift)
-Custom Alignment
-Axxis Ultimate Ceramic brake pads
-225-60-16 General Alitmax HP's on stock 10-spoke alloys
-Full size spare, roof mounted

**Interior/Exterior and lighting**
-MY'04 FXT 4EAT leather shift knob
-Pioneer DEH-P6000UB Head Unit
-Custom single DIN toggle switch panel
-RoadBlockR sound deadening in the hatch
-All weather front floor mats
-Subaru A/W rear floor mats
-Custom aluminum front skid plate
-Thule crossbars
-cheap Swagman bike rack
-DRL delete + GE Tungsram Selective Yellow H1 lowbeams
-Trailer hitch + various balls/hooks for towing/offroading
-Front tow hook cover removed, hook painted red


TABLE OF CONTENTS:


-The story, and the first detail job (You are HERE *big red dot*)

-Hawkeye WRX rim's (just a photoshop...)

-'04 FXT 4EAT Leather Shift Knob

-Comparison with '09 Outback, and Foglight rockguards removed

-Mystery box arrives, and what's inside

-HomeDepot hybrid CAI (for MAP Subbies)

-First pic with the new suspension setup, I say good-bye to the car for a few months

-Adding some more parts to the MOD box!

-I'm not a parts-whore... I swear...

-It's BACK!

-Permatex Headlight Restoration

-Custom Lightbar installed

-'07 FSXT 6CD Changer

-Borla Replica header installed

-Link to my Hella wiring mess, and Bbottomley's helpful expertise

-Just some more pics!

-Magnaflow muffler painted, ready for catback install!

-Soundclip of new stainless catback

-Got some SNOW!

-RoadBlockR Sound Deadening

- Protection for the dangly bits...

-Bad news :(

-Axxis Ultimate Ceramic brake pads

-eBay Swagman Bike Rack installed

-Trip to Paris Landing State Park, BattleWagon turns 150k miles young

-Spring Cleaning, and undercoating! :smile:

-Finished up the Pioneer install, painted my shifter surround

-Got tint!

-Subtle Solutions front lift installed

-Couple pics from the alignment shop

-Ordered the new engine

-Scangauge II installed

-Starting the engine replacement!

-Finished pics!

-Murphy's law... I get torque bind and a failed transmission clutch pack, as well as a new throttle position sensor.

-The TuRD... my transportation while the Scooby is in the shop!

-All fixed up, showing off the new shoes!

-A loose wire leads to another trip to a different dealer, and a tow truck along the way.

-GE Tungsram Gold (Selective-Yellow) Low Beam Bulbs

- DIY Intake V2... 3 inch, modded airbox!

- Painted my 'new' spare set of wheels.








[story snipped to save space... shoot me PM for details... lol)



First mod... resonator deletes! Eventually I will get a different tube to replace the piece between the scoop and the airbox, but for now, it adds a little more growl. I neatly sealed off the holes with electrical tape. Ghetto-tastic.

Before:



After:




Next, I removed the silly piece of plastic that Subaru put in front of the intake scoop to deflect air away from it.





Now, for my first appearance mod. This may not seem like a mod, but it certainly made a difference in the way the car looks. The paint's clearcoat was contaminated with all sorts of stuff, from old wax buildup to waterspots to ground in road grime, you name it. It gave the car an odd grey-ish tint. :huh:

Today I was determined to remove the aforementioned 'tint', and make her shine again.

First step was removing the bug deflector, and doing a two-bucket wash. Here's what it looked like after that:


Then, I claybarred the entire car. The clay took out most of the surface stuff that was left behind, but the paint still felt rough to the touch. So I broke out the Griot's/Porter Cable buffer and Meguiar's Swirl X for a test spot. Here's a pic of the spot:


After verifying that the method worked, I started working my way across the hood. Here you can see that the right edge of the hood is whiter than the rest. :icon_razz: I love seeing progress being made.


After that, I added a coat of Meguiars Gold Class wax for protection. I'll follow up with another coat of NXT 2.0 Tech Wax once I get some at the store later. Then I moved on to the interior... sorry, no before pics, just an after:


I <3 big gauges...


After pics of the exterior (total time invested: 12 hours):










More to come, I have some fun stuff in mind. :biggrin:
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Nice. Just be aware that the scangauge do draw power even when it's shut down. So if your not using the car for many days you can end up with a nearly flat battery. :icon_eek:
^thanks for the tip!
Just called CCR... the engine is being put on the pallet right now! Will be here Wednesday, so the teardown will be Sunday. Shop is closed on Monday and Tuesday, so I'll paint whatever parts I need to in the garage at the house. Wednesday, stuff will get transferred to the new engine if it arrives soon enough. Thursday I'll finish that up and get it dropped in. Fingers crossed for a start on Friday.

Who wants to come to LeJeune and help? O.O
Just called CCR... the engine is being put on the pallet right now! Will be here Wednesday, so the teardown will be Sunday. Shop is closed on Monday and Tuesday, so I'll paint whatever parts I need to in the garage at the house. Wednesday, stuff will get transferred to the new engine if it arrives soon enough. Thursday I'll finish that up and get it dropped in. Fingers crossed for a start on Friday.

Who wants to come to LeJeune and help? O.O
I'd love to, but according to Google Maps, that'd be an 8 hour drive. So if that's okay, I'll pass on this one. Plus, I don't think I'd be any help at all.
Nice. Just be aware that the scangauge do draw power even when it's shut down. So if your not using the car for many days you can end up with a nearly flat battery. :icon_eek:
Not really a problem, unless you have a weak battery. The Scangauge II User Manual says in about 12 seconds after turning off the vehicle or pressing a button after the vehicle engine is turned off, the ScanGauge II will automatically power down into a sleep mode.

I asked Scangauge II support, "What amount of power does the Scangauge II use when it's in sleep mode?" Their reply, "The Scangauge II draws 2mA when the vehicle is turned off. The ScanGauge II should not drain your vehicle's battery."

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
I mean MANY days. :lol:
That said I have no personal experience. Only what I read.

Not really a problem, unless you have a weak battery. The Scangauge II User Manual says in about 12 seconds after turning off the vehicle or pressing a button after the vehicle engine is turned off, the ScanGauge II will automatically power down into a sleep mode.

I asked Scangauge II support, "What amount of power does the Scangauge II use when it's in sleep mode?" Their reply, "The Scangauge II draws 2mA when the vehicle is turned off. The ScanGauge II should not drain your vehicle's battery."

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
I'd love to, but according to Google Maps, that'd be an 8 hour drive. So if that's okay, I'll pass on this one. Plus, I don't think I'd be any help at all.
Haha, I thought I'd have dad to help me, but he's leaving for DC on Tuesday morning. Grrrr. So I'll be solo putting it back in unless I can get Julie to help. PATRICK, COME SAVE ME. :lol:
Well, the car goes in for surgery tomorrow. I think I have everything... we shall see! Originally planned to do it Sunday, but lo and behold, they were closed. They are normally open, but apparently they closed for Memorial Day.
Well, the car goes in for surgery tomorrow. I think I have everything... we shall see! Originally planned to do it Sunday, but lo and behold, they were closed. They are normally open, but apparently they closed for Memorial Day.
Good luck!! Wish I could help, text me for moral support!
2
Well, we're getting there. Who has a suggestion on the best way to remove these left lower trans bolts? I spat and cursed at them, and removed the CV shaft (since I'm replacing it anyway) but I couldn't get them out before clean-up time.



The A/C compressor is just sort of laying in its place. Not attached to anything but the hoses. This was right before I left.

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Looks like a lot of work! :icon_eek: Thanks for the update. :cool:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
Things that I need to buy now...

New lower radiator hose (hose clamps were seized, cut the hose in half to remove rad), new hose clamps (a ton of them), new A/C belt tensioner (plastic broke), new left lower balljoint.

:eek:
^^ Sounds like Murphy's law - "Anything that can go wrong will go wrong." :icon_eek:

I'm sure it's on your list, but when you the intake manifold off, it might be a good time to check all those fuel line clamps under there... the ones that tend to leak when it way cold. :wink:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
3
Let's add a left tie-rod end to that. :lol: Car is back on the ground now, and the engine is completely stripped and unbolted... just stuck to the trans dowels. Didn't feel like wrestling them apart after working all afternoon. I don't have a current pic of it, but here are a couple from today.

The new engine.... I got some of the sensors/senders moved over already. Brought the intake manifold and fuel rail guards home so that I can paint them in the morning before the shop opens.



The old one...



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WOW! That new engine looks "sweet"! :cool:

Curious... why the rusty bolts on the timing belt cover?

I know I've said it before, but that intake manifold looks very good. If it were me, I'd give is a good cleaning (degreaser) & call it good. :wink:

One more thought, while it's so easy to do. Are you going to pull the spark plugs to verify you got what you ordered, check the gap & to see if there's antiseize on the threads? :confused:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
WOW! That new engine looks "sweet"! :cool:

Curious... why the rusty bolts on the timing belt cover?

I know I've said it before, but that intake manifold looks very good. If it were me, I'd give is a good cleaning (degreaser) & call it good. :wink:

One more thought, while it's so easy to do. Are you going to pull the spark plugs to verify you got what you ordered, check the gap & to see if there's antiseize on the threads? :confused:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
I can only assume that the rusty bolts are there because it is a re-manufactured engine (essentially new, but with a reused/rebuilt block and heads with OEM parts). The company is big into recycling, so they re-use those fasteners if they aren't too rusty. I can't complain. :smile: It even came with an OEM oil filter, as you can see in the pic. I still need to take it off and pre-fill it.

I did in fact check the plugs! They had antiseize, and the gap was correct. Not sure if they were iridium, but I'll pull them at 30k anyway to check.

Out with the old, in with the new. The process of yanking the old one took about 3 minutes from the time I started separating the engine from the trans with a chisel, to the time it was hanging overhead on the big overhead hoist (freaking awesome, btw... it slides on a track frame above the work area, similar to what ship yards have). The new one took about 5 minutes to put in. It now has the intake manifold, fuel rails and injectors, coolant hard lines, thermostat housing, and all of the other IM stuff hooked up. The black manifold looks awesome! Unfortunately, I have to be a tease and just give you the pic of the longblock installed since I was tired and forgot to snap a pic of the bay when I wrapped things up for the day.



We may have startup tomorrow night. Not going to rush for sure, but it's a possibility! It won't have A/C running until I can get that tensioner in. Still need to go to the stealer and order it.

Really hilarious to see the other guys in the shop walk by the car with the engine sitting out on the pallet (both the new one when it arrived, and the old one now). Most of them have never seen a boxer engine before. One Marine walked up while I was under the car, and said,

"So that's the boxer?"

"Yessir."

"Damn. That's ****ing awesome."

Another one:

"Hey, so that's what that thing looks like!"

"Yep!"

"That's the ****, man."

"Haha, thanks."

"I might have to get one of those."

I'm the first person to do a Subaru engine pull in the shop, so everyone has been watching somewhat curiously.
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Things are so much easier when you have a shop to work in, aren't they?
So why did you go with a reman motor for your car after rebuilding your mom's motor?
Michael - lol... One of the guys that helped me get it off the truck said that "It was a 'beautiful piece of mechanical art". I can't say I disagree. :biggrin:

jgrote - Rebuilding mom's Suburban engine was something I was confident about. It's a Chevy small block, so it's fairly simple, and there were DIY/How To/Mods books out the wazoo for it. Plus, it's all cast iron, so much harder to screw up threads, etc. Replacement stuff if I broke something was also ridiculously cheap. I just wasn't comfortable enough to tear apart the Subbie engine right before college (which is a 1400 mile round trip from home in TN a couple times a year + 1600 roundtrips from home to here in NC once or twice a year). There's a time constraint as well; I have to get this thing broken in before the trip home on the second weekend in July. I took a month and a half to rebuild the Suburban, making sure the machine work was perfect, every part I installed was put in properly, etc, etc. It was a very, very OCD build. I don't know enough about Subaru internals yet (besides the basics of the block... I know nothing about the SOHC heads) to be comfortable digging into my car's heart without a backup.

If that makes any sense. :lol: I was able to order it modified the way I wanted though. :smile:
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