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2004 Forester XT 4EAT
1,365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Edit 11/3/2020: It's BACK. The family friend traded me this back after almost 10 years - Mileage is up to 255K. The EJ25D I'd pulled, put in new HG and reinstalled after I gave up on the turbo project went another 30K miles (~210K total) before throwing a rod (IIRC it had gone thru TWO sets of HG, so likely the bearings got toasted during @ least one overheat). We swapped in a '97 EJ22 and it's still running well. Just drove it 300 miles w/out issue.

My goal now is to go cheap.

Jump to new mod list circa 11/2020.

EDIT 01/03/2011: After fighting the tuning issue for 4 months (never could get the Greddy Emanage tuned - Most likely due to cracked ringland in the EJ22T found later or lack of 2 tuners' knowledge), I'm putting it back to 'mostly' stock and selling it to a family friend.

Model: 1998 Forester S, 5-speed, bought 4/2010 w/170K miles and the infamous failed Head Gaskets.

My current DD is a '90 Legacy that I've done an EJ22T and turbo 4EAT swap (among other things) w/a TD04, running 16.5 psi w/the aid of a Revtronix chip. Since Subaru didn't make a USDM Legacy turbo 'til the '91 SS and the Touring Wagon (turbo) wasn't avl. 'til '92, I have a rare car. The Forester would be in the same league.

The Forester should be a nice upgrade for my budget.

I intend to AutoX the car, but it's also going to be my daily driver, so needs to be reliable.

List of modifications planned:

List includes replacements/upgrades due to the car's mileage and upgraded HP.​

  • '93 EJ22T block - Purchased used 3/10
  • EJ25 DOHC heads - Prepped 4/10 - Installed on EJ22T block 5/25/10.
  • JDM EJ20K turbo cams - Purchased used 3/10- Installed in heads 4/10.
  • TD0516G (or VF22) turbo (15-20 psi)
  • EJ22e Phase 1 ('97-98) head gasket to maintain CR @
    about 8.0:1. -Purchased new 5/4/10
    EDIT: Decided to go w/the EJ22T HG - Installed 5/25/10
    - The Phase 1 are NOT thinner; the multi-layer Phase 2 are and may work better - see below.
  • STi 550 injectors -Purchased used - Installed 8/10/10
  • Intercooler - haven't decided as I want to keep the sleeper/stealth look, and avoid chopping the hood.

  • AWIC (I have a kit) -Purchased used 4/23/10 - Installed 8/15/10
  • TMIC (will have an FXT setup and have an '02 WRX setup)
  • Considering a meth/water kit, too
  • Greddy Emanage Ultimate - Purchased used 4/23/10- Installed 8/12/10
  • Fuel Pump: Walbro GSs342 -Purchased 4/18/10 - Installed 5/16/10 (see notes below)
  • Helix catch can -Purchased used 4/23/10 - Installed 6/22/2010
  • ebay 3" down pipe -Purchased new 4/23/10. Installed 6/13/2010
  • STi axleback exhaust -Purchased used 4/23/10 - Installed 6/13/10
  • Clutch: ACT pressure plate/disk; '07 WRX Flywheel -Purchased 4/23/10 - Flywheel resurfaced (properly) 5/17/10 - Installed 6/26/10.
  • Tranquil Sleeve Kit TSk3 -Purchased 5/17/10. Installed 6/21/10.
Brakes, Steering, Suspension & Tires/Wheels:
  • '04 Sti Struts - Purchased (25K) 4/01/10 - Fronts installed 5/15/10; Rears installed 5/22/10
  • WRX Rack - purchased used (72K) 4/30/10 - Installed 5/15/10
  • STi Brake booster (if it'll fit the SF) - Purchased used 5/14/10- Installed 6/17/10
  • Brakes

  • Front: WRX 11.4" vented twincaliper piston. -Purchased 4/23/10 - Installed 5/15/10
  • Back: H6 -Purchased 4/23/10 -Installed 5/21-22/10

  • STi engine mounts (used)- Installed 5/30/10
  • Legacy turbo cross member - Installed 5/15/10
  • Legacy Rear hubs/knuckles (I believe the bearings are shot on my '98) -Purchased used 4/23/10 - Installed 5/21-22/10
  • Rear 4.11 LSD and axles -Purchased used 4/23/10 - Installed 5/21-22/10
  • Wheels/Tires: '02 WRX 16" wheels
    w/Hankook K106 225/50R16 Tires -swap from legacy

  • STi boost gauge - Installed 7/13/2010
  • Legacy GT leather steering wheel-Installed 8/21/10 (Also replaced clockspring)
  • Rear Spoiler - Ordered E7210FS200AG for $65 shipped! - 6/15/10...But I'll have to paint it.

Disclaimer: I'm no mechanic and all about Function over Form. If you want BOTH, check out this THREAD.
Table of contents

-Crossmember, WRX Rack and Steering linkage

- Engine

- Turbo and Intercooler

- Brakes and Struts

- Fuel Pump Install

- Rear Knuckles/Hubs and Rear LSD Diff

- Miscellaneous

- Interior

- Clutch, Flywheel, Tranquil (snout) Sleeve Kit TSk3

- Driving Impressions

- Exterior

- Greddy Emanage Ultimate Install

2004 Forester XT 4EAT
1,365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Crossmember, WRX Rack and Steering linkage

The pics are here.....Removed the Crossmember and R&P tonight. I was surprised to see the 'spacers' between the frame and crossmember. I'm unsure whether they should stay or not??? I'd think the front would be lower than the back if I take them out.
EDIT: I think I found my answer on Scoobymods. I left the spacers installed.

Crossmember and rack removed:


A 'gotcha'.

EDIT - 3/1/11 - going back to stock update: The WRX required used a different pinion input shaft (see below). I chose to swap out the WRX one for my old Forester one so it would work w/my existing 'intermediated shaft'....not something I would recommend. After doing this, the turning circle went from not so good to terrible. Due to @ least 2 leaks on the WRX rack I installed I re-installed a stock rack ('98-02 are the same) and the turning circle is much improved. - End Edit.

The WRX rack's pinion input shaft is a different size than the Forester's. If I'd read this POST 1st, I'd have known.

Can I just swap the pinion gear 'box'? My guess is NO since that is probably part of the WRX's quicker ratio.

BTW, an '04 NA Forester (I don't know about the FXT) is the same as my '98. And it appears both ends of the 'intermediate/steering shaft' share the same knurled (?) spacing. The '08 Impreza is the same as the '04 WRX, so I bought the steering shaft piece and will see if I can make one end '98 and the other '[email protected] a machine shop. I will have them modded to have a '98 end on the column end and WRX/Impreza on the rack end:

EDIT: I found out from Angry Toaster that the Pinion Gear CAN be swapped (Forester on left):

So, I didn't get the 'Foreza' steering linkage made, but just swapped the pinion gears. I'd recommend detaching and/or capping the lines that feed into the pinion gear housing so they don't leak PS fluid on the gear while swapping. The Forester gear is slightly smaller than the WRX...not sure yet what that'll do.

The 'new' Legacy turbo crossmember and WRX rack installed and the 2nd 'gotcha'.:

The NA sway bar doesn't make room for the up pipe molded into the turbo crossmember.....I've been there/done that on my ol' Legacy, so shoulda/coulda/woulda known better. :icon_rolleyes:

So, I'm sourcing a WRX or FXT sway bar.

Edit: Bought the FXT/STi bar from a member here, but had to get creative w/the sway bar bushing/bracket combo.

In the 1st picture below is the stock ('98 SF) bracket/bushing, stock bushing and the bushing that came w/the sway bar.

I reused the SF's bracket and bushing mounted up to the Legacy SS crossmember but wondered if I 'should'? Will that bigger bar over-stress the bushing and bracket or will I just be giving up control vs. what the larger bushing/bracket would provide? According to others (LC BBS), I'm OK running it this way.

I bought the correct bracket/clamp for the XT's bushing but there's no way to mount it, as it has bolt holes on both ends. See the 2nd pic, which compares the two - old vs. new (not my pic- just for reference)


2004 Forester XT 4EAT
1,365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Flywheel, Heads, and steering linkage

Dropped the FW, Head, and steering linkage off for 'improvements'.

The RH head will get two holes tapped for the oil/coolant lines.
Edit: See the Turbo section for info/pics of the final product.

See above re: the steering linkage.

2004 Forester XT 4EAT
1,365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)

Began getting the EJ22T ready.

Cleaned the nearly 20 years worth of gunk off the block and then cleaned some more. I don't plan to replace the rear main seal as it appears dry and they are a PITA to get back in, from everything I've read online.

Edit 6/22/10: When getting the FW/clutch/PP ready, I noticed the Rear Main looked 'suspect', so I changed it.

Removed the oil pump, checked the screws on the back, replaced the O-ring and reinstalled the oil seal around the crank. Used Permatex aneorobic gasket maker (red stuff) as recommended for sealing parts that don't use an actual gasket.

Replaced the water pump and thermostat.

On the back, I replaced the Separator Plate aka "Rear main seal retainer" w/the 3rd (or is that 4th) generation metal retainer and 5+1 bolts/screws. Used the Permatex again:

I wanted to run a thinner headgasket to keep the CR up around 8-8.5:1. Based on a few threads over on NASIOC I read that others had used the '96-98 EJ22e - Phase 1 - (non-turbo) HG. But when I got ready to install it I saw this:

And decided too much of the passages were covered, so I went ahead and just installed the EJ22T HG.

Heads installed w/Cam sprockets:

I decided to use the EJ25's water cross over since the sensors on the intake manifold would match:

I'm not sure if this will be a good idea as it puts the 2 sensors in a very tight area (see below).

I kept the pipe from the EJ22T that runs from the water pump to the Turbo's coolant tank:

IM installed:

I used the EJ22T's IAC since it has the 90 elbow to clear the turbo. It was a direct swap, incl. the connector, for the EJ25's except it only uses 3 bolts to mount, IIRC.

STi engine mounts and exhaust manifold installed:

Unexciting as it is, I got the PCV/breather hoses where I think they'll work- I'll clean it up after installed in the car:

I ran the hose off the PCV out thru the pass. side of the IM....wait and see if that'll work w/the PS lines, et al:

Installed my 1st DOHC Timing belt. Used clamps to hold the belt in place on the pass. side and to hold the sprockets on the driver's side. Wasn't as big a deal as I thought it'd be. Used the marks on the timing covers and then counted the teeth - 3x - to verify. I had another 'gotcha' as the EJ22T's Tbelt tensioner pulley's bolt stripped out. Thankfully I had another EJ22e. Since the bracket that the pulleys/tensioner attach to is replaceable, I just swapped in the other one. I could have also used the newer style tensioner and pulled the bracket from the EJ25:

To get the other heat/coolant line I modded the EJ22T's line. I cut and bent the tab, drilled the hole bigger and got lucky to reuse the oil galley bolt. Hopefully, it'll be close enough when installed:

Cut/Bent tab:

Spark Plugs I installed are NGK PFR6B. These are the same plugs used on the JDM EJ20 w/these heads and turbo camshafts. I set the gap to .035 based on my experience and what I've read online. The stock EJ22T gap is .044, but I'll be running twice the boost which necessitates a tighter gap.

Engine installed pics below. The main issue was getting the engine/trans to mate up...I've only done one other 5-speed install (but 4 w/4EATs) and it went together easier, but eventually I got it lined up.

I followed the same install for the turbo's intake and coolant tank as my Legacy, so it was pretty easy.

Another issue is mounting the coolant tank-for now it's zipped tied to the AC hose. I removed the EGR valve's bracket and it's just held in place by the 4 vac lines attached to it. I'll probably move the tank to the front right like the WRX/FXT location.

Edit 8/19/10:
Moved the tank to the front pass. side. Built a bracket that mounts to the P/S's bracket. I was able to run the hose from the bottom of the tank under the IM to the same hard pipe w/a length of heater hose and the 'stock' U-shaped hose I had (good thing I never throw stuff away!). I was able to use the EJ22T's turbo return line also :). I bought some new lines for the 2 small lines that run to the radiator and overflow tank, and ran them along the radiator.

The '98 radiator overflow bottle is different than the '99 I found out (I got a '99 to replace the '98's oil coated insides - due to HG). So it's attached, but not correctly.

Since I used the stock SF's radiator (I've had NO issues running the stock NA radiator on my Legacy), I did the same mod as on my Legacy - removed the rubber seal on the radiator cap that's on the radiator (the one @ the end of the spring end; not the one that seals the lip). The coolant tank's overflow tube goes to the overflow tank; the radiator's overflow tube goes to the coolant tank's other small connector; the bigger top connector goes to the turbo, and the bottom connector goes to the hard line that runs from the water pump. I just used hoses I had availble from the other swaps I've done.

The PCV and Breather hose install went OK, other than the Helix Catch Can needs a better home (above CC actuator for now).

I left the coil pack disconnected, filled the oil and coolant, and turned it over for about 5 seconds- 3 times - to hopefully pressurize the systems. Connected the coil pack and it started after about 5 seconds of cranking!!

So far the only engine-related issues I've had are an oil leak on the pass. side head (fixed - I hope) and a small leak from the turbo's coolant supply...that one will have to wait for when I upgrade the turbo as it's underneath the turbo and between the up pipe and head. :

AC and harness tucked under the Pitch Stop for the IC install:

"Phase 1" install pics (stock injectors/VF11 Turbo/no IC):

STi 550cc yellow side-feed Injectors going in (actually flow tested by Witchhunter @ ~525 @ 43.5 PSI). They look identical to the stock Forester EJ25 injectors and fit the stock fuel rails:


2004 Forester XT 4EAT
1,365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Brakes and Struts

Got the front STi struts and WRX brakes installed w/out too much drama. I'm not sure how to secure the brake line to the strut, but I wedged it into the existing slot and zip-tied it for now (other pics got corrupted so this is all I have):

I didn't regrease the struts, as mentioned on here and elsewhere, since I don't have spring compressors and they only have 25K on them (supposedly). If they clunk I'll try the 'spray and go' band-aid I've read about 1st.

Installed the Rear struts and H6 brakes today (5/22/10). Nothing too exciting to see but the parking brake was a learning experience. 1st one took 'awhile' but the other side was much easier:

Although they appear identical, I upgraded to the STi MC/BB as it had only 40K vs. the 170K on the '98. The part number on the STi BB is: 864-06319 3X24 MW. I believe this is unique to the USDM '04 STi, as the '05 and newer are a completely different part numbering scheme (@ least on Ebay):

Decided to change out the struts as the STI's were just too stiff, causing the 'bobble-head' effect. They didn't clunk but read on here that greasing them may be have helped too.

I found a set of '04 WRX Wagon Stuts and Top Hats and on Ebay, and the Seller happen to have a set of STI springs to put on 'em...exactly what I'd decided to try.

I also installed a set of camber bolts on the rear struts.

Here are the '04 STi take-offs vs. WRX Wagon w/STi springs:


And comparo pics of the STI's installed vs. the WRX Wagon - tires are 225/50R-16:


Upgraded the rear sway bar (RSB) to an STi 20mm. The thing is HUGE compared to the stock one. I read that this was bolt-on, but didn't read enough as it may be, but it doesn't fit well. I put it on the OUTSIDE of the endlinks vs. the stock inside mounting. It pulls the endlinks inward and will rub, which I (later) read is common. I could have put them on the INSIDE and pushed the links OUTWARD, but just went w/them on the outside. I found out I shoulda/coulda/woulda used the '02 (&'03?) Sedan RSB for a better fit. In the 2nd pic below the different width is visible. The Seller included the rubber bushings. I cut the 'ears' off of them and they fit in the stock clamps. Pics of the stock vs. STi RSB:

Went w/a 17mm RSB from a WRX sedan. Was 'sposed to be a 20mm from an '02, but the seller was wrong, but the 17 is a good compromise anyway...and it fits perfectly.

The width difference is obvious in the pic - this is the STi 20mm above the 17mm WRX:


2004 Forester XT 4EAT
1,365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Fuel Pump Install for 1998

Thought I'd chronicle this install as I didn't see anything for the SF's. It was a bigger PITA than I thought it'd be, but got it installed nonetheless. I don't think the GS342 is the correct pump - seems too tight, but it works.

I'd already removed the fuel pressure when I removed the fuel lines while pulling the engine, but one suggestion is to disconnect the fuel pump plug (see below), run the car 'til it dies, and the pressure will be released. More info HERE.

I ended up removing the rear seat but for ultimate accessibility removing the seat backs (@ least the passenger side) would make it even easier.

Removed the rear storage/spare tire cover by removing the 2 plastic screws:

The styrofoam storage bin directly behind the rear seat sits on top of the fuel pump access cover. There are 3 black plastic panel fasteners holding down the bin. I tried to just pull up on them and the styrofoam started to break, so I had to remove the rear seat to get under them. The fasteners are on either side of the rear seat bolt in the pic. I removed the nut...... - (EDIT - This nut is probably not required to remove; just undo the front 2 and lift the front of the seat base up while pushing the back of it down to unhook it):

...and the 2 bolts mounted vertically on the front of the rear seat's base to release the rear seat:

Once I had the rear seat out, I used a pair of needle nose pliers to pry the fasteners up:

The other fastener in the bottom of the bin:

I used a flat head screwdriver to pop it up from the spare tire side:

There are also 2 tabs on each end of the bin that are under the styrofoam that's around the spare. I was able to pull up one side and angle it enough to get the other side out. They are flexible plastic, so didn't have to worry about breaking them:

Once the bin is out of the way the oval cover is visible on the passenger side. (Didn't get a pic of it :icon_rolleyes:.)

There are 4 screws to remove the cover. The two on the front are slightly obstructed by the rear seat back.

Once I got the cover off, I found this.....a nice 12-year accumulation of dirt:

I got the vac out and sucked it up.

There are 3 gas hoses to disconnect and the one electrical plug. One of the gas hoses has a funky plastic clip holding it on. I squeezed the white tabs together, and then slid the black part off leaving the white piece attached to the tube. On the other 2 hoses I used a pair of pliers to twist it back and forth while pushing on the lip of the hose w/a screwdriver....just constant pressure; not too much all @ once.

There a 8, 8mm nuts to remove to get fuel pump out. It doesn't pull straight up to remove; it has to be turned a bit and as stated above removing the rear passenger seat back may have made it easier to get out.

Once out I opened the Walbro kit to compare. I didn't need the extra plug:

Doing a test fit the fuel pump's 'outy' and the bracket's 'inny' shows they are almost touching, which seems not quite right (blurry pic):

There wasn't enough room to connect the hose and get the pump back into its holder w/the bottom rubber piece I bent the bottom bracket back a bit to make room and it went together:

I put it all back together and hope it works when I get ready to use it in a week or two.:woohoo:

2002 S
2,695 Posts
Got the front STi struts and WRX brakes installed w/out too much drama. I'm not sure how to secure the brake line to the strut, but I wedged it into the existing slot and zip-tied it for now
That's exactly how I ran mine for a year or two before I switched to WRX stainless brake lines that had the proper mounting points. I never had an issue when I was doing it.

2004 Forester XT 4EAT
1,365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)

I've never had Vanity plates and still not sure I want to, but thought it'd be fun to make up a few. In ID we have room for 7 characters:
- 4CDSTER (my current fave) (most NA's won't get this one)
- FAS4STR (looking for trouble?)
- 4FUNSTR (lamer than most)
- BOX-STR (Porsche sue me on ® infringement? :) )
- STI4STR (again, looking for trouble?)

2004 Forester XT 4EAT
1,365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Rear Knuckles/Hubs and Rear LSD Diff

Legacy rear knuckles/hubs (w/good bearings) installed yesterday/today. No big issues w/the thru bolt on the control arms or the trailing arm. I'd been treating them to a shot of PB Blaster every couple days for the last 2 weeks, so maybe that helped.

Got the non-LSD rear diff out w/out issue and had to swap the studs from mine to the LSD diff ('05 Legacy GT-Edit...Uh- No.)...Like to thank Jim A. again for the stud removal tool....came in handy!

Also, note the different threads on the diff end of the stud...That was 'news' to me...of course, I've been told I need to get out more!

And the 4.11 LSD (Edit: Uh, still No) installed:

Axles included were from an '03 WRX, which look identical to the Forester's, and everything went back together like it should.

2004 Forester XT 4EAT
1,365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
LGT Transmission upgrade?


I'm struggling with a decision to upgrade the transmission while the car is still 'in transition'.

The 2005 Legacyt GT 5-speed is a relatively easy install and would/should easily handle my 250-300HP/torque goals.

I've found one online for $1K shipped, and can't justify the cost, but i know I'll be afraid of breaking the 170K (165HP) original.

I'd still need to budget:
- STI stub kit
- Slave cylinder (maybe)
- Speedo gear (steal from the Forester?)

I'll have to sleep on it.

EDIT: Decided to run the original '98. Online info states it 'should' be good to 300HP - not sure if that's @ the crank or wheels, but either way should suffice for my initial goals.

2004 Forester XT 4EAT
1,365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Turbo Fun!

Since I have all the parts, I'm going to put the VF11 (stock EJ22T turbo) in initially. I'll run wastegate boost (5-6psi), on the stock ECU, which I've read is OK w/the MAF-based systems.

I'll keep the stock EJ25's fuel injectors (280cc's?) too (although I'm considering the 370's from the EJ22T). The STI 550's will wait for EM.

I want to ensure the engine is running OK on the stock ECU before installing the Emanage (plus, I'm still working up to THAT install!).

Also, I want to run it 'stock' to shake out any other issues that may pop-up - leaks/noises/etc.

Here's the VF11 temporarily installed:

And what it looks like w/the TD05-16G (90° elbow) sitting in there:

The wiring is a PITA as they all are in that same area. I removed the tape from the wiring looms to get a bit more movement and moved them off the bracket. Used a zip tie to center them more under the TB:

Here's the plumbing for the turbo. I bought all the piping from NASIOC members' listings. Oil drain/return, oil inlet, and coolant pipes. Since my NA heads don't have the oil return or coolant pipes threaded (just the bosses (?) for the cooland and return) I had a local Subie shop drill and tap those for me. I just removed the bolt from the head for the oil inlet. The oil return is a TD04 coolant line bent and cut, w/the OEM rubber return hose connected:

Macgyver'd oil return line:

I used the WRX's turbo mounting brackets, as the EJ22T's didn't fit due to the DOHC oil inlet's location (it's on the end of the SOHC EJ22T's head). It wouldn't take much to modify it, but since I knew ahead of time (research!), I bought the plug-n-play option:


WRX 2-piece version:

With engine installed, I did some test fitments of my avl. intercoolers.

FXT won't work w/out a different BPV, as the stocker hits the TB's cables.

An '02-05 (?) WRX IC won't work as it's too deep:

And of course w/any Top Mount I'd have to chop the hood, something I'd like to avoid.

So, I'm hoping I can get this ugly beast to work - an AWIC. This was part of a 'lot' of parts I bought from a guy in CO. He didn't have any wiring info as his buddy hooked it up, but it looks like it'll fit....just gotta figure out the wiring. It includes a heat exchanger and some piping/hoses, but I'll have to come up w/something from the turbo to the AWIC's inlet, as I'm pretty sure he was running it on a clocked (or maybe rotated) turbo setup:

TD05-16G from an early JDM WRX/STi. It has the same 90° elbow as the VF11, which makes fitment a bit cleaner and I can reuse what I was using for the VF11. I'm going to have to get creative (again) and work out the wiring, connection to the intercooler, and reroute the coolant pipes:

I was able to get the wiring moved under the TB and out of the way of the turbo's outlet. The TPS and IAC are both close, but was able to get a 90 elbow on it.

Here is the AWIC installed:

I ended up w/a 90 from the turbo, to a hard line that has a nipple for the BPV (came w/the AWIC), into a 90, a short piece of exhaust pipe to connect to the final 90 that goes into the AWIC. The AWIC's heat exchanger just fits between the radiator and the bumper. Amazingly there were 2 holes - 1 on each side - for the hoses from the AWIC to the exchanger to go thru. I enlarged the pass. side w/a Dremel (damn handy tool!).

Electrically, I tapped into the pump's 12v line, w/an inline fuse, bypassing the relay. I found a 'key On' power source and it runs continually....for now. There is a sensor in the AWIC that goes to to the relay, so if I can figure out how to use it......

Filled the AWIC w/regular 50/50 coolant. I have to come up w/some plugs for the AWIC's coolant pipes, since the hoses have to come off whenever I'm working on it.

2004 Forester XT 4EAT
1,365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)

Installed the STi mid-pipe and axle-back. The hanger in front of the muffler is way off, but the muffler hangers were close - bent them a bit to keep from rubbing the bottom of the bumper.

I have an el-cheapo 3" bellmouth downpipe that I added a bung to in the same spot as the Legacy SS for the front 02 sensor. The DP already had a bung in back....just not sure how I'm going to run the LC1 Wideband AND the rear 02 sensor when I start tuning the Emanage. The DP's rear flange appears to mate up well w/the stocker's. The included 3" gasket seems to work fine in place of the OEM 'donut' gasket. EDIT: No, it doesn't...I have a leak wthere the DP and mid-pipe connect, so I'll take it to the shop to fix.

Also, have a rattle in the back, which is likely the muffler moving around too much. I'll have that adjusted too.

1 - 20 of 84 Posts