[gregor 42]

I just noticed surface rust at the bottom of the rear hatch on my 2009 Forester. (after doing a thorough cleaning following the winter). I had a rear step pad installed at the dealer (plastic, not aluminum) and wonder if it tends to hold water and salt against the bottom of the hatch as it's very close to it.
I've seen some posts that suggest the paint on these vehicles is not the greatest.
I know it's under warranty but am disappointed it would rust so soon. Will be taking it to the dealer tomorrow.
Just wondering if anyone else is having this problem.

 

[bellatech]

Negative. No rust issues on the ol 09. Can you take a pic so we can see?

Harsh winter have something to do with it?

 

[ddavidv]

One of two things is likely happening. First is the step pad is too close to the liftgate lip and is rubbing the paint off of it. Second is the bottom lip of the gate is actually rusting from the inside. Subaru won't cover it under warranty until there is perforation, which means it's too late by then.

 

[bellatech]

Do the step cover and gate actually touch?

 

[ObsidianBlack09]

I have surface rust on the lower back edges of my doors on my '09 because the vinyl protection patches don't go to the bottom of the doors. The rocks sandblast that area when I drive rural roads. I don't know why they stop before the bottom of the doors - that's the area most directly exposed to debris and rocks!

 

[gregor 42]

Pictures

Closer inspection shows the step pad contacting the lift gate in the areas of rust. Where it is not contacting, there doesn't appear to be any surface rust. As a result, it must be chafing and wearing the paint as ddavidv suggests. ( in the third pic you can see the area on the step pad where the rust has left a stain from where the gate touches it) However, I also see a few small pits of rust further up on the tailgate. I'll address these with the dealer on Monday. I don't know if I can remove the part of the pad that's contacting the bottom of the gate or not . Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

[gregor 42]

Rust fix

Took the forester to the dealer today. They are going to fix the rust ie paint and also will adjust the hatch upward slightly so it doesn't touch the bumper pad . Should be ok after that (I hope).

 

[rusty jake 11]

I have the rear bumper pad too. I'll keep checking mine to see if it does the same-thanks for the heads up. Here's hoping it works out well for you.

 

[bellatech]

Yeah, that is so not right, shouldn't be. Thanks for the pics. Sometimes, it's hard for me to believe these problems are out there. Glad to see they're fixing you up!

 

[Corson27]

funny I actually just noticed the same thing on my '10 tonight, did a search and found your thread, the rust is not as bad, just a few small nicks that I can touch up but I was pretty disappointing considering the car is only 6 months old. I will check to see if it rubs the plastic bumper guard tomorrow.
Let me know if by adjusting the gate it fixes the issue, I wouldn't think there would be that much play for them to adjust the gate.

 

[gregor 42]

It's going in on Monday and I pick it up on Tuesday. I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

[gregor 42]

Surface rust resolved

funny I actually just noticed the same thing on my '10 tonight, did a search and found your thread, the rust is not as bad, just a few small nicks that I can touch up but I was pretty disappointing considering the car is only 6 months old. I will check to see if it rubs the plastic bumper guard tomorrow.
Let me know if by adjusting the gate it fixes the issue, I wouldn't think there would be that much play for them to adjust the gate.

Picked the Forester up yesterday( I've been away). The dealer painted the rust area and adjusted the rear hatch up, so there is now about 1/4 inch clearance above the bumper pad. Looks great and the best part is they covered it under warranty. My advice is to be sure the bottom of the hatch is well clear of the pad on the bumper to prevent this from happening in the first place.

Thanks for everyone's response to my post. Cheers!

 

[audiolab1]

Picked the Forester up yesterday( I've been away). The dealer painted the rust area and adjusted the rear hatch up, so there is now about 1/4 inch clearance above the bumper pad. Looks great and the best part is they covered it under warranty. My advice is to be sure the bottom of the hatch is well clear of the pad on the bumper to prevent this from happening in the first place.

Thanks for everyone's response to my post. Cheers!

Just checking in to see if the repair has help up? I have run into the same issue on my 2010, but I do not have a bumper pad installed. This looks like a design flaw as the bumper top lip is flat and not sloping to take water away. I am going to bet that water/snow/ice pools in this area causing premature corrosion. I will be taking it to the dealer this week and I'll raise hell if Subaru Canada won't address it. This is unfortunately the latest in a series of issues with this damn car (scratched side and rear windows, front wheel bearing went at 38,000km, premature brake and rotor wear, squeaking front dash, poor rear tailgate closure, cracked weatherstripping around rear windows, steering wheel vibration above 110km/h, etc). If I could cut my losses and run I would as there is no way I'm going to ever hope of getting 6-10 years out of this thing. These cars are simply not built up the the standard that the Subaru name represented in the past.

 

[mx_599]

Audio lab, I have some of the problems you mentioned and have started a thread in the past. I have scratches on my back window too...kind of looks like when they installed the rear spoiler or something. Of course I got those cracks around rear side windows too.

I have some unacceptable deterioration of my clear coat in areas as well. I need to see if I can carefully spot repair a few areas very carefully. I have been researching it and have some good ideas for the meticulous hand, lol

I like the car, but it is not without a few disappointments

To OP, this sucks. I will look on mine and see if it is touching

 

[audiolab1]

Just checking in to see if the repair has help up? I have run into the same issue on my 2010, but I do not have a bumper pad installed. This looks like a design flaw as the bumper top lip is flat and not sloping to take water away. I am going to bet that water/snow/ice pools in this area causing premature corrosion. I will be taking it to the dealer this week and I'll raise hell if Subaru Canada won't address it. This is unfortunately the latest in a series of issues with this damn car (scratched side and rear windows, front wheel bearing went at 38,000km, premature brake and rotor wear, squeaking front dash, poor rear tailgate closure, cracked weatherstripping around rear windows, steering wheel vibration above 110km/h, etc). If I could cut my losses and run I would as there is no way I'm going to ever hope of getting 6-10 years out of this thing. These cars are simply not built up the the standard that the Subaru name represented in the past.

Just bumping this thread so that others who might be considering a Subaru see this post...and an update:

Rust on the bottom lip of our rear tailgate was determined by Subaru Canada to be caused by the tailgate scraping against ice (!), was "normal" (!!), and they would fix it as a "goodwill" gesture, i.e. not accept any responsibility or address what I feel are body prep issues in manufacturing. 6 months later, after a winter where my wife and I did NOT open the tailgate if there was any snow or ice collected near the bottom lip, and we cleared out any snow so that water would not pool in the area, and it is rusted again in the same areas! I also now have the same type of edge rust along the bottom of the rear doors. This is absolutely pathetic on a car that is 3 and a half years old and is kept meticulously clean (washed regularly, waxed twice a year). Of all I the cars I have owned over the years, both new AND used, I have never seen this kind of rust at anywhere near this age. Disappointed...

 

[Wookai]

I know it's a long stretch, but I recently bought a 2010 Forester, and I have the same problem! The bottom lip of the rear hatch is starting to rust, and I'd like to fix it if possible.

I cannot really go back to the previous owner, so do you think I could ask a Subaru dealership in the area to have a look and possibly fix it?

 

[bingow]

I know it's a long stretch, but I recently bought a 2010 Forester, and I have the same problem! The bottom lip of the rear hatch is starting to rust, and I'd like to fix it if possible.

I cannot really go back to the previous owner, so do you think I could ask a Subaru dealership in the area to have a look and possibly fix it?

Photos would be a big help, but this may be an easy DIY (1st choice), or body shop (2nd), or dealer...? A very distant third.

 

[Wookai]

I don't have pics at the moment, but it looks exactly like what @gregor 42 posted above on post #6.

How would I DIY this (without making things worse)? I don't have any body painting experience...

 

[bingow]

@Wookai, assuming no warranty for your '10, this looks to be very DIY-able. Start by googling something like "DIY repair auto rust", you'll surely get mega-hits, with youtube a good bet.

It will probably involve (1) carefully sanding with 400x or finer, (2) masking off the area, which in gregor 42's case looks easy and low risk, vs, say, a ding in the middle of the hood, (3) priming with a spray can (lots of masking for overspray), (4) another round of fine sanding, and (5) color spray, followed by a light shot of clear coat spray.

You may be able to find your color spray at a good auto parts store, but I doubt it. There are several online suppliers, my favorite is Automotive Touchup. If you start with them, you'll get lots of guidance, better than I've given above.

 

[Wookai]

Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation, and the pointer to Automotive Touch. As it's at the base of the rear hatch, it's not such a sensitive place, so I should be OK DIYing this.

However, I've always wondered how the edges come up when doing this? Do you leave a margin of when you mask, so that the transition from sanded/newly painted area to old paint is not too hard?