Subaru Forester Owners Forum banner

281 - 292 of 292 Posts

·
Registered
11 Foz X Premium 5MT
Joined
·
74 Posts
scott - first of all thanks for your amazing thread! i have a '11 foz x limited 5mt coming in to the dealer this week, and am ready to get started on a few mods. :Banane08: although my tastes are more along the intake/exhaust/suspension route as opposed to the audio stuff, your thread and it's exhaustive detail will be quite helpful for all kinds of details... :biggrin:

question: do you have/can you take a photo or two of the underside of your foz showing the magnaflow exhaust and where it connects to the stock portion of the exhaust? i'd really like to see where the shop welded in the exhaust...this will probably be one of my first mods, and i'd love to have some point of visual reference. you described it pretty well in words, but some pics would be great. if not, no big deal - but i thought i'd ask! your setup looks perfect (thanks also for all the magnaflow part #s).

- jeremy
 

·
Registered
2010 Forester Auto
Joined
·
368 Posts
i love your vehicle and where/how did you get the pieces from china how hard was it to work with them and i cant seem to find the dash pieces on ebay id love to get em and your fozzie is just awesome!!!!
 

·
Registered
2009 Forester
Joined
·
206 Posts
Discussion Starter #285
Thanks for the compliments. The Forester is fun to drive and tweak. Enjoy!

Rllyrckt, Ordering from China is easy but shipping takes about three weeks on bigger items. Fair prices. I would do it again, and frequently do. :banana:
 

·
Registered
2009 Forester XT Limited Automatic
Joined
·
38 Posts
I have an idea for your next project!

I will come out to Tucson or you come out to Las Vegas and we pimp my new Forester!! I have been looking into a lot of audio upgrades and interior things and would love your help and expertise =P

Have you been to Vegas before?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
How did you route the wiring harness for the hitch? The etrailer install video says to leave it inside the car, and route it outside through the liftgate, only when it's actually needed.
 

·
Registered
2009 Forester 2.5x 5MT
Joined
·
31 Posts
Great thread here. It is nice to read about someone who is also N/A! I have a question about the CAI, does it flip a code when you run it? I tried to make a DIY pod filter set up, but reverted back to stock when I got a rich/lean engine code
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I recently purchased the Audio Control Switch for the steering wheel. This was a much easier install than I imagined. It took about an hour to do and was much easier to install than the subwoofer or Ipod kit.

There is a great installation guide located here:
Added Steering Wheel Controls & Tweeters to base model 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX - MP3Car.com

One of the concerns I had is that this guy reports that even if you keep the original radio you have to get a SW control adapter kit. I bought one on ebay but it has not arived yet. The good news is that th econtrols work perfectly without any type of adapter kit. The adapter is really only needed when installing an aftermarket head unit.


I am quoting FordNoMore for the install instructions:
"In the base model, the wiring for the steering wheel audio controls is all there. The switches are a drop-in replacement, and in the stereo wiring harness you'll find a Brown wire and Yellow wire that carry the signal. Of course, you'll need something to interpret the signal -- in my case, I programmed a PIC microcontroller, but you could also use something off the shelf like the PAC SWI-X Steering Wheel Audio Interface. (Cheaper at other websites.)

For reference, here are the resistances you will measure between the Brown and Yellow wires:

Mute - 22 ohm
Vol up - 90 ohm
Vol dn - 200 ohm
Mode - 360 ohm
Seek up - 690 ohm
Seek dn - 1.15 ohm
Nothing pressed - 4.7k ohm

You do have to remove the steering wheel to replace the switches. The service manual does not call for replacement of the steering wheel nut, but for safety I did so anyway. (My old Ford Explorer did require replacement, which is why it occurred to me.) It's only a buck, so I splurged.

If you don't have a service manual (which, by the way, you can access online through Subaru for not too much money) here's the procedure:

1. Make sure the steering wheel is oriented straight so you can get it back on correctly when you're done.
2. Disconnect the car battery and wait at least 20 seconds.
3. Remove the airbag via the T30 Torx bolts on the sides.
4. Disconnect the airbag from the wire connectors at the rear of the airbag itself. There are little yellow clips you pop up with a tiny screwdriver, and then the connectors will come off easily.
5. Mark the steering wheel orientation, and then use a steering wheel puller to remove it. (I didn't have the right kind, and on a brand new car I was able to get it off by just pulling really really hard... but I nearly damaged the airbag wiring, so I don't recommend it.)
6. Pretty self-explanatory from here... Disconnect the cruise control switch, unscrew the cruise control and trim panel from the rear of the wheel, screw in your new cruise control and audio button panels, and put everything back together.
7. Important: Tighten the steering wheel nut to 39Nm or 28.8 ft-lb of torque. Make sure the steering wheel is fully seated. Mine took some wiggling.
8. Probably less important: airbag screws should be tightened to 10Nm or 7.2ft-lb
9. Sweet!! Steering wheel audio controls!"

These instructions are excellent. I have added a few more photos to compliment the instructions:

This is the OEM part number. Cost is about $100 and totally worth every cent!!!


I did not relize it when buying, but the switches come together. Cruise and Audio. They are wired together as a unit. You simply unplug the cruise control and install the new switches with the same plug end fitting the car.



Original 2.5x Steering Wheel


Upgraded Steering Wheel with Audio Control Switches


STEP 3. Remove the airbag via the T30 Torx bolts on the sides.
STEP 4. Disconnect the airbag from the wire connectors at the rear of the airbag itself. There are little yellow clips you pop up with a tiny screwdriver, and then the connectors will come off easily.



5. Mark the steering wheel orientation, and then use a steering wheel puller to remove it. (I didn't have the right kind, and on a brand new car I was able to get it off by just pulling really really hard... but I nearly damaged the airbag wiring, so I don't recommend it.)
I did this step without the steering wheel puller. I had the same issue. When the wheel gives, it really gives, and I was thrust backwards in the seat. The wires got yanked and one of the little yellow plugs flew off. No biggie, but I do recommend taping that wire to the black device that sits behind the wheel. This should prevent someone else from ripping there wires up.



6. Pretty self-explanatory from here... Disconnect the cruise control switch, unscrew the cruise control and trim panel from the rear of the wheel, screw in your new cruise control and audio button panels, and put everything back together.

Remove the two screws holding the plastic housing


Next, flip wheel over and remove single screw holding dummy plate and cruise controls


Install new controls, screw them down, then flip back over and viola! You are done. Ready to reinstall housing and remount the steering wheel.


7. Important: Tighten the steering wheel nut to 39Nm or 28.8 ft-lb of torque. Make sure the steering wheel is fully seated. Mine took some wiggling.
8. Probably less important: airbag screws should be tightened to 10Nm or 7.2ft-lb
9. Sweet!! Steering wheel audio controls!"

That is all. If you are using a stock radio, then you do not need to add any type of adapter for these controls to operate.
How was the control for audio? Does it works? Cause I'm planning to install mine as well. Cheers!
 
281 - 292 of 292 Posts
Top