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2005 Impreza RS Wagon Auto
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3,683 Posts
If anyone knows of a past thread on the replacement of the filler neck, 2000 Forester I would apreciate it. (yeah, I know, I need a factory service manual).
I had my mech replace it, but I don't think it is hard except for the rollover sensor. It is about an hour's work.
 

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2000 Forester L
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
.7hrs, I can handle that

Ok, but I am not dropping the tank right? So I was planning to just run the Forester 15 miles into my low fuel warning light. Then, from what I can see I will remove the wheel, remove the shield which is covering the neck, unbolt the outside bolts around the cap area, then I planned to just figure it out from there. That neck must enter the tank through a rubber grommet or something. I really need to get the manual. I just don't want to get in there and get to a piont where I can not proceed because I will be at a remote location.

I just did the mechanical fix for the Cat, can't wait to see if it works.
 

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Premium Member
2008 XS 4EAT
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9,877 Posts
Had a friend (subaru tech) replace it on my '99(girlfriends now), I got to watch,:banana: and no you don't need to drop the tank. What looks like the first problem according to him is the bolts/ screws holding it at the filler neck, spray your fave penetrating lube around there for a couple of days. If they are bolts and they break from being seized, no problem and if they are screws and they strip just drill them out. When you remove the plastic cover, expect a lot of crud to fall out, you'll see why the pipe rusts out. You'll have to remove a couple of hose's and the overflow line is attached to the body so once you have the cover off, spray those with penetrating lube before attempting to remove them. When you order the parts you'll need your VIN, it's a good idea to order new hoses and all new related clamps!!! On the tech's recommendation we ordered new return lines as well, they can get kinked while snaking the pipe out. If the parts guy/gal is good they'll know all the parts to order, it's better to have all the bolts/screws as well. Hopefully they'll let you look at the computer to see all the related parts. Worth while power washing the wheel well and underneath prior to working on it, be safe and use jack stands. If I had the space and a heated garage, I think I could have done the job, but we've been locked in to -Celius temps since late December::shake:
 

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2000 Forester L
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks

Thanks for the great words, I appreciate it. I am now better prepared as to what I might find under there. I think that this fix will more than likely correct error code
P0451, (Tank Pressure) and possible P0440, (evap). I saw a great article here about cleaning the vent system which ends up somewhere in the back rail too. I will gunk that out while I'm at it. On a more positive note, I really love the car. It is solid, feels safe, and is comfortable. Plus it has plenty of power when I need it. And so what if it looks like the Popemobile.
 

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2000 Forester L
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Done

DONE! Took an hour. Tons of crud came out and the neck was a mess of rust thru. But now the tank vents properly so it will take gas. It took care of 2 codes: P0451, (Tank Pressure) and possible P0440, (evap).
 

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2005 Impreza RS Wagon Auto
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3,683 Posts
DONE! Took an hour. Tons of crud came out and the neck was a mess of rust thru. But now the tank vents properly so it will take gas. It took care of 2 codes: P0451, (Tank Pressure) and possible P0440, (evap).
Congratz! If I had any clue what was wrong with mine I would have tried the DIY method, but it didn't cost too much I guess.
 

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99 forester
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1 Posts
hello i got a 99 forester with same problem, does anyone know or guess how much this is going to cost,? mines totally rusted , tube , returns lines , everything is very brittle!
 

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2001 Forester
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3 Posts
I have a similar issue.
Do I need to drain fuel or not? Run the car to almost empty?
I found parts on ebay for $169. Sounds good to me.
Why do all Subaru Forester 98-02 rusts at fuel neck/trunk latch/rear wiper?

Thanks,
Homer
 

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2019 canadian convenience
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242 Posts
I'm bumping this too. Can someone tell me what is the small "box on top of the filler, and its purpose?
 

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2001 forester s
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51 Posts
It's the rollover sensor.
I will be doing this job soon also, as everything on mine is rusted.
I'll be replacing everything, sensor,vent lines, etc
 

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2004 Forester XT 4EAT
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429 Posts
We need a walk through on this because I feel like alot of SF's have the same problem. I'm gonna be replacing mine soon. Any steps to what you did feathercrafter?
 

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2005 Impreza RS Wagon Auto
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3,683 Posts
We need a walk through on this because I feel like alot of SF's have the same problem. I'm gonna be replacing mine soon. Any steps to what you did feathercrafter?
I wish I did the job myself and took pics now that this issue is coming out of the woodwork. Mine was replaced a good three years ago too. I would think a DIY with part numbers and pictures would be great if someone would write it up.
 

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2005 Forester XS
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37 Posts
I did mine on my old '99 last year. I replaced the pipe with the rollover sensor, because it comes with it, new from the Subaru dealer parts dept. but I did not replace any of the other lines coming off it. I think that's where I went wrong. Wanted to keep the job simpler. I can fill it with gas now and there is no smell anymore, but I still have the CEL!!
 

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2002 Forester
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293 Posts
I just did this on my 1995 Escort. Procedure is the same, except I completely removed the fuel filler metal tube, removed as much rust as I could (wire brush, then sandpaper drill attachment). Then primed it. Let it set for at least a day. Then painted it. Let it sit for at least a day. Then clearcoated it. Let sit for at least a day. Then reinstalled with new hose and new stainless steel clamps. If I were made dictator, I'd require that these filler tubes be made of stainless steel.
 

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none none
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9,011 Posts
I just did this on my 1995 Escort. Procedure is the same, except I completely removed the fuel filler metal tube, removed as much rust as I could (wire brush, then sandpaper drill attachment). Then primed it. Let it set for at least a day. Then painted it. Let it sit for at least a day. Then clearcoated it. Let sit for at least a day. Then reinstalled with new hose and new stainless steel clamps. If I were made dictator, I'd require that these filler tubes be made of stainless steel.
I still can't believe that they don't at least put a thicker coat of paint on or anything. The filler pipe on my 04 XT is rusting, but I picked up a brand new one as a spare (which I'll be coating with truck bedliner or something similar) so I can replace it when the factory one rusts through (getting close right at the top)
 
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