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Okay I know this is a typical sign that you need new brakes but the dealership told me it's because the brakes get hot? I think they're lying to me lol. But what's the deal? Why would they not want to change them? Or could they really just be "hot"?
 

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2008 XS 4EAT
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Okay I know this is a typical sign that you need new brakes but the dealership told me it's because the brakes get hot? I think they're lying to me lol. But what's the deal? Why would they not want to change them? Or could they really just be "hot"?
Did the dealership do an inspection? How many miles since the last brake service? Also check your tire pressures to make sure they are properly inflated. See if your dealer will do a free brake inspection if that is where you would have it done, most other garages will do that as well. You will probably face a small inspection fee if you are not having it done right away.

I'll go with the brakes need servicing, have the rotors turned and new pads installed, the rears should show less wear, but might be a good time to have all the brakes serviced.

Keep us posted, with what you find and do.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did the dealership do an inspection? How many miles since the last brake service? Also check your tire pressures to make sure they are properly inflated. See if your dealer will do a free brake inspection if that is where you would have it done, most other garages will do that as well. You will probably face a small inspection fee if you are not having it done right away.

I'll go with the brakes need servicing, have the rotors turned and new pads installed, the rears should show less wear, but might be a good time to have all the brakes serviced.

Keep us posted, with what you find and do.
They did a oil change and I told them to check the brakes and they said they were fine. I'll check the tires. Tomorow I'm going to the dealership for an oil change and I'll tell them again otherwise I'll just have my local mechanic do it for me. I'm not sure when they were last serviced as I got the car from mom I've only owned it now for a few months.
Thanks I'll keep you up to date
 

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aka DMax in Alaska
'06 Mini Cooper S JCW 6MT
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The pads may be fine but yy experience has been that a shaking steering wheel when braking is usually a sign of warped rotors. Warped rotors typically happen because of excessive heat sometimes from inferior metal composition.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The pads may be fine but yy experience has been that a shaking steering wheel when braking is usually a sign of warped rotors. Warped rotors typically happen because of excessive heat sometimes from inferior metal composition.
So the guy was kind of right about them getting hot? What I heard is that the dealerships just change the brake pads and then the rotors are still bad and ruin the new pads. Is this true? This is the first time I'm taking a car routinely to a dealership.
 

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aka DMax in Alaska
'06 Mini Cooper S JCW 6MT
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So the guy was kind of right about them getting hot? What I heard is that the dealerships just change the brake pads and then the rotors are still bad and ruin the new pads. Is this true? This is the first time I'm taking a car routinely to a dealership.
Yep...It sounds like they changed the pads and likely did not check the rotor for being within minimums. New pads can be ruined by bad rotors. Wrong pads can ruin rotors.

If the pads installed were of a semi-metallic variety and OEM were something less, the pads could cause the rotors to become heated too fast and cause warping too.

If it hasn't been too long, the rotors could possibly be turned to bring them into spec. Depending on the application, buying new rotors could actually only cost s few dollars more than turning.

Ask the dealer what kind of pads were installed (if you do not already know) and see what OEM is suppose to be. To aggressive of a pad compound can overheat and warp rotors.
 

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2004 Subaru Forester XT 5 speed manual.
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Another thing with rotors is that if the sliders on the calipers aren't serviced right, you'll sometimes get one brake pad applying more foce than the other, which superheats one side of the rotor causing it to warp. I took the time last year to learn how to do my Forester's brakes, now it just seems so damned easy. You really get a great grasp on how it all works and can better troubleshoot going forward.
 

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Usually its not actually warped rotors in 99% of cases. Its from the junk stock pads, when they get hot they leave pad residue on the rotor. If you get them hot and then hold the brakes at a stop (such as at a light or something after driving hard) it will leave residue just in one spot. You can usually even see this on the rotor. Try bedding the pads in, usually when I change just pads I just take some steel wool or sandpaper to the old rotor to get as much pad material off before bedding the new pads in.

Stoptech had a good article about this. It would take a lot to actually warp the rotors, the stock front rotors are pretty decent.
 

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98 GM67 + 03 SG
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Usually its not actually warped rotors in 99% of cases. Its from the junk stock pads, when they get hot they leave pad residue on the rotor. If you get them hot and then hold the brakes at a stop (such as at a light or something after driving hard) it will leave residue just in one spot. You can usually even see this on the rotor. Try bedding the pads in, usually when I change just pads I just take some steel wool or sandpaper to the old rotor to get as much pad material off before bedding the new pads in.

Stoptech had a good article about this. It would take a lot to actually warp the rotors, the stock front rotors are pretty decent.
Finally, a voice of reason. Normal driving will not warp rotors. Dragging the brakes or going easy on them creates pad deposits in the rotors that create an uneven braking surface that causes the shaking feeling.

If you change your pads, turn the rotors and bed the pads in. If you replace the rotors, bed the pads in.

Bedding In Brake Pads:

Find a nice stretch of road some where you can not impede the flow of traffic or break any traffic laws. I am not to be held liable for the practice of this in an unlawful manner.

Accelerate to 60MPH and apply heavy and even pressure to the brake pedal until you slow to 5MPH. Accelerate back to 60MPH and repeat this process 6-7 times.

Drive around somewhere to let the brakes cool a bit. Do not use them. Drive at a constant speed for a few minutes.

Repeat the accelerate then brake procedure one more time. At the end of this cycle drive around for a few more minutes and then park by slowing and using the emergency/parking brake. You want to avoid having the brake pads make contact with the rotors as it will create deposits, which is what we are trying to avoid by doing this process.


You can help to keep things scrubbed clean by occasionally really hitting the brakes. This will help to momentarily heat things up and even out the deposits. Or, buy something other than stock pads.

Things I have done to my brakes
Hot spotted the rears - after a spirited trip up and over and up and over and up and over Rt211 with some other enthusiasts, I stopped and parked for a bit. Soon after, I noticed a weird speed dependent noise from the rear. I found a black spot the same size and shape of the pads on the rear rotors. This was remedied by turning the rotors and removing the bad metal.

Scored the brake rotors - waited too long to order and replace my rears (come to think of it, I never heard the squeelers) and suddenly I was met with a metal grinding noise of pad plate meeting rotor metal. This ended up creating rings in my rotor. Again, not the best thing in the world, and this was remedied by turning the rotors. Come to think of it, I might have discovered both of these issues at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It doesn't matter any more Big Reds got a head gasket leak, looks like his times up and I'll be geting a new Forester :(.
 

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Also might check control arm bushings, if you hit the brakes and the suspension shifts back, you might have some bad suspension bushings.
 

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'09 STI
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Usually its not actually warped rotors in 99% of cases. Its from the junk stock pads, when they get hot they leave pad residue on the rotor. If you get them hot and then hold the brakes at a stop (such as at a light or something after driving hard) it will leave residue just in one spot. You can usually even see this on the rotor. Try bedding the pads in, usually when I change just pads I just take some steel wool or sandpaper to the old rotor to get as much pad material off before bedding the new pads in.

Stoptech had a good article about this. It would take a lot to actually warp the rotors, the stock front rotors are pretty decent.
Finally, a voice of reason. Normal driving will not warp rotors. Dragging the brakes or going easy on them creates pad deposits in the rotors that create an uneven braking surface that causes the shaking feeling.

If you change your pads, turn the rotors and bed the pads in. If you replace the rotors, bed the pads in.
Finally signs of intelligent life. The internet can be a great source of information and parroted misinformation.
 

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happening to my Forester

:crying:
This is happening to my 2000 forester
it has 250K miles and is in good shape.

when I press the brakes the steering wheel goes left and right about an few inches in each direction.

When I got the car, it was doing this... I changes the pads and it still did it... then I put on new rotors on both side and the issues went completely away... it was great.

Now, about 2 months ago I thought I found the problem when I put on new rotors. I also put in new brake fluid in the pump and pushed out the old fluid.

The new brakes have now restarted the issue and it is there on about 50% of braking and only moves the steering wheel about 1/16 of an inch the rest of the time.

So, did the pads and rotors go bad again? Or is something else causing this issue.

Do I or should I replace the pads and rotors again? Or is it something else causing this

Please help.
 

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2017 VW Golf SportWagen 5MT
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A good way to warp the rotors is over-tighten the lugnuts. What are you torquing your wheels to?

In my years of driving I have yet to warp rotors on any cars just by driving the car and using the brakes. Rotors won't just warp.

Stan
 

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Not on their own, during daily driving... but I have seen warped rotors out a freshly sealed boxes too many times to count. Either it's bad manufacturing or bad stock room people.

Otherwise it's not "warping" it just brake build up. "Turning the rotors" can fix this but most people simply replace them at that point because it's only a few dollars more to get all new ones. Either way, you should replace the pads too with either option.
 

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:crying:
This is happening to my 2000 forester
it has 250K miles and is in good shape.

when I press the brakes the steering wheel goes left and right about an few inches in each direction.

When I got the car, it was doing this... I changes the pads and it still did it... then I put on new rotors on both side and the issues went completely away... it was great.

Now, about 2 months ago I thought I found the problem when I put on new rotors. I also put in new brake fluid in the pump and pushed out the old fluid.

The new brakes have now restarted the issue and it is there on about 50% of braking and only moves the steering wheel about 1/16 of an inch the rest of the time.

So, did the pads and rotors go bad again? Or is something else causing this issue.

Do I or should I replace the pads and rotors again? Or is it something else causing this

Please help.
It could be the rotors again, or it could be something else like wheels or suspension. Some rotors can warp because they dont handle heat cycles well, some pads can leave deposits on the rotors (stop tech pads?) and some wheel or suspension issues start showing up while braking before they get bad. Its most often the brake rotors.
 

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it turns out the is was the rotors... they were new and thick enough but were sightly warped after a couple of months being used.. The part store replaced both of them and the issue completely went away and hasn't returned.
 

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When you get brand new brakes, if they are not driven smoothly for the first 100 miles or so, they will be really grabby and heat up fast. When they overheat, they warp the discs and also hotspots, and can burn unevenly on the pads, causing that shimmeying upon stopping. The only way to fix it is to get brand new discs and also new pads. Then the car should be like new!
 
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