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2006 Forester
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662 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
No too long after seeing the Stealth Sub Install thread http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f77/install-8-sub-stock-location-3540/ I did the same thing and in '07 I installed an 8" RF Punch II and Profile AP400 amp set to low-pass. When I made the enclosure I used a 2" PVC pipe and ported the enclosure toward the car front and into the quarter panel space.

For a while now I've been wondering if this was necessary, and if the sub would sound better if the enclosure was sealed. Well, this afternoon I tore it all apart and attempted to seal the port. Frankly, I don't think I got a good seal, but I have an idea of how to seal it better but I'll have to wait till I get the materials.

I just want to know if there is REALLY any difference in sound between a sealed or ported sub enclosure. This is one of those things that can drive a man crazy...
 

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There is an big difference between a sealed and ported enclosure. When looking at a ported box the size of the port the length of the port and the style of the port matter in the sound. For your question on if there is a difference in sound, YES, there definitely is. You will get more output-Louder with a port but will loose some response and clarity of the sub. Now the last sentence all very much depends on many variables, like sub, enclosure style, and position of the sub in the car.

Im sure this is more than you were looking for but it is always fun to help people out.
 

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2007 Forester XT 4EAT-VTD
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In a perfectly quiet setting (like a home theater), I'll take the sealed enclosure for the cleaner, more accurate bass. In a moving car (especially a not-so-quiet Forester), I think the ported option makes more sense as there is usually a lot of low frequency noise that muddies up the bass anyway.
 

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2018 2.0 FXT-Touring CVT
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3,010 Posts
Mine is sealed, it makes for tighter bass. Ported boxes have too much thump for my liking.
 

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27 car gear
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846 Posts
With a ported box, you NEED to be within 10% of the suggested volume, or the ported box will never be built to spec, and have the same freq response as the modeling tools. Because of this, most ported boxes are built wrong, or people buy pre-fab stuff, and use the box manufacturers suggestions. WRONG. And you know what? No one is the wiser, as the owner thinks it slams! :lol:

Sealed on the other hand is much more forgiving, and you can be near 20% off in specs, and it wont be too far off from the modeling tools for freq response.

That said for simplicity sakes, sealed should be your go to box.

However, if there is a specific need for a ported enclosure like higher SPL, low wattage amps, tuning for a specific freq, then only a ported will do.

Try building an isobaric, where you need to be within 5% of the specific air volume... It's east to get it wrong when you are doing bracing for the box.
 

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2007 Mitsubishi Pajero 5spd Automatic
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3,572 Posts
I agree with the one above. Sealed is easier but since you allready have the thing built.
It all comes down to how big the volume is in there. I would check specs for the subwoofer. Ported subwoofers need more volume then sealed ones.
As an example my Pioneer 12" sub recommands 28L for sealed and 45L I think it was for ported :crazy:

Edit: Mine is also stealthy but I no longer have a spare wheel. :lol:
 
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