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Snoshado's FXT Journal

124566 Views 766 Replies 97 Participants Last post by  Snoshado, 
Snoshado
Snoshado's "Because Racecar" Build Thread


Random Mods

Engine
  • 2006 STI Longblock
  • Top Feed Injector Conversion
  • Fuel Injector Clinic 1100cc Injectors
  • Blouch TD06 20G-XT Turbo
  • Manley CR Pistons
  • ACL Race Bearings
  • CX Racing FMIC
  • Random Technologies Catted Hi-Flo Downpipe
  • Tomei Equal Length Headers
  • Tomei Up Pipe
  • Prodrive Boost Solenoid
  • OEM STI Spark Plugs
  • Koyo Aluminum Radiator
  • COBB Turbo Heat Shield
  • Injen Short Ram Air Intake
  • 3" COBB Catless Exhaust
  • Perrin Turbo Inlet Hose
  • Perrin Master Cylinder Brace
  • Kartboy Short Shifter
  • Mishimoto Oil Catch Can
  • Group N Motor Mounts

Drivetrain
  • 2005 STI Transmission
  • 2005 STI Rear Differential
  • 2005 STI Front/Rear Hubs (5x114.3)
  • 2005 STI Driveshaft & Axles
  • 2005 STI Front/Rear Brembo Brakes
  • ACT Heavy Duty Clutch Kit
  • Competition Clutch Lightweight Flywheel

Wheels / Suspension
  • Enkei Rajin Wheels 18x8"
  • Kumho Ecsta PX91 XL 245/35/18
  • MSW Type 85 Wheels 17x8" +48 Offset
  • 2005 STI JDM Struts
  • STI Aluminium Lateral Links
  • STI Rear Strut Tower Brace
  • Perrin Polyurethane Front End Links
  • Rear Subframe Lockdown Bolts / Bushings

Interior
  • 2008 FXT Gauge Cluster Surround
  • 2011 OEM STI Shift Knob
  • 2006 STI Shifter Surround
  • 2008 JDM STI Hazard Button
  • AEM Wideband Gauge
  • Prosport Boost Gauge (52mm)
  • Prosport Oil Pressure Gauge (52mm)
  • STI Floor Mats
  • WRX Limited Front Seats
  • Polk Front/Rear Speakers (DB651)

Exterior
  • Front STI CS2 Style Lip
  • 2008 Sport Front End (headlights, grille, hood, fenders, bumper)
  • 2013 STI HID Projectors + OEM Harness (retrofitted by me!)
  • Rear Spoiler
  • Subtle Solutions Skidplate
  • 2008 Sport Tail Lights
  • 2008 Forester Sports Sideskirts
  • 2006 OEM STI Front / Rear Emblems

Wish List

Photos
This was my first real dirt drive out by Pyramid Lake, NV! Good times :icon_wink:



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Snoshado
Because I fixed everything! Turned out the washers on the top oil feed line for the turbo were shot... which was the first thing I replaced and I still had the problem -_- Then a friend came over and told me to get OEM ones and problem solved!

The poor idling was due to a disconnected spark plug wire which had a broken clip o_O Found that out the hard way on my way to work yesterday when I got a misfire :lol:

On a side note, I have new spark plugs on the way as well as new front endlinks from Perrin! Plus.... I've updated the first post with lots of info so hopefully it helps those who may be curious about my Foz :biggrin:
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scubadoober
Snoshado said:
Because I fixed everything! Turned out the washers on the top oil feed line for the turbo were shot... which was the first thing I replaced and I still had the problem -_- Then a friend came over and told me to get OEM ones and problem solved!
Click to expand...
Nailed it! I'm glad you got it fixed. Can't say I've ever heard of the spark plug issue. Interesting.
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Snoshado
scubadoober said:
Nailed it! I'm glad you got it fixed. Can't say I've ever heard of the spark plug issue. Interesting.
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Seriously! All that work for literally nothing but I'm glad it was a simple fix! I think I broke the clip when I changed plugs previously but still... Very strange!

Anyway, yesterday I made my car / stereo iDevice and Android friendly with cables that tuck away in the dash! Super excited :biggrin:
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Duderotomy
Sweet, I've got a setup similar to that in the Skyline...

My storage cubby under the Alpine deck hides the iPod cable which is hardwired into the deck.
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Real Lyte
Snoshado said:
Because I fixed everything! Turned out the washers on the top oil feed line for the turbo were shot... which was the first thing I replaced and I still had the problem -_- Then a friend came over and told me to get OEM ones and problem solved!

The poor idling was due to a disconnected spark plug wire which had a broken clip o_O Found that out the hard way on my way to work yesterday when I got a misfire :lol:

On a side note, I have new spark plugs on the way as well as new front endlinks from Perrin! Plus.... I've updated the first post with lots of info so hopefully it helps those who may be curious about my Foz :biggrin:
Click to expand...
Someones a nub:)
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MikeDrives1
so it does or doesnt need a new bottome end?
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Snoshado
MikeDrives1 said:
so it does or doesnt need a new bottome end?
Click to expand...
Does not... Although after I do an STI drivetrain swap and get new suspension and wheels, a replacement motor may be in store!

Anyway, Friday night was a good night for the Fozzie. I replaced the turbo feed line washers with new OEM ones and everything's working fine. I also installed new Perrin Polyurethane front end links as well as Gorilla Mud Flaps. Pics? :biggrin:




I also shaved my front calipers in order to fit 15" rims on my Fozzie!


Lastly, I'm working on making some rear wing risers because I saw some that Perrin made for STIs and thought they looked cool and would maybe help keep the dust off my rear window a little better:

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Real Lyte
Purpose of the 15" rims?
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Blue Fox
ConnorLug said:
Isn't the spec like 140-160 psi or something like that :\
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good dog said:
Exactly, I think the lower acceptable rate is around 140+.

Start saving for a leak down test (over a compression test) that will tell you where you are losing compression. It could be rings, intake valves, exhaust valves or even head gasket. Rings usually mean overbore with new pistons and rings, ca-ching, and while doing that, better re-seat the valves as you reseal it with a new gasket kit.

And do you really want to be known for trading in a dead horse, so-to-speak.:shrug::shake:
Click to expand...
Depending on how the test was done (if it was up to proper engine temp first), the "quality" of the compression testing equipment, etc. all come into play when checking the compression. Even on a new Subaru engine, my compression test tool only gets it up to around 110 max......and it's also a cheap one. Main thing you're looking for is consistency. If you already have a compression leak, at that point you just want to know from where. It doesn't matter at that point of "how much and how fast" it's leaking......which is what the leakdown test does. Even if the cylinder numbers are low, but they're consistent throughout, odds are everything is sealing just fine, but you can always check with the method listed below before going all out on a full-on leak-down.

Easier, faster and cheaper way.......just take the Schrader valve out of the compression test hose, hook up shop air when you are testing the cylinder with the piston at the top of the compression stroke. Wherever you hear hissing, that's your leak. Hissing from the dip stick/oil pan, rings. Hissing from either intake or exhaust.......either one of those valves.
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Blue Fox
Real Lyte said:
Purpose of the 15" rims?
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15" Rally wheels with Gravel Tires. :bacon:
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Snoshado
Blue Fox said:
15" Rally wheels with Gravel Tires. :bacon:
Click to expand...
Precisely :lol:


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide
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J
Did you notice a big difference with the perrin endlinks? I'm tempted to install mine in the front, did you install them in the front?
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Snoshado
JFXT said:
Did you notice a big difference with the perrin endlinks? I'm tempted to install mine in the front, did you install them in the front?
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Enormous difference. The turn-in is so tight and precise now! I'm not sure if the endlinks are front / rear specific so I would definitely check and see before you install them!


In other news.... I went Autocrossing this weekend and ended up with a punctured tire on Saturday which I repaired and then another puncture on Sunday!! Crazyyyy :lol:

Anyway, here's a photo from the end of the day today.. I have video and more photos to come:
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good dog
At least you weren't rally crossing this
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Wessneroo
Did someone put tacks out on the course like the Olympic road cycling last week?
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Snoshado
Wessneroo said:
Did someone put tacks out on the course like the Olympic road cycling last week?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't doubt it!! I was filling up my tires after each run :lol: it was awesome haha


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Snoshado
I need help. Please.

Lines ~50 through ~190 on the log.. My engine tries to kill itself when I come to a stop, shudders, and catches itself before returning to acceptable idle RPMs.

FXT Data Log on Google Docs

I'm about to spend $600+ on new sensors, exhaust gaskets, and an out-of-town tune because nobody can give me a straight answer (my "tuner" and the Subaru shop I go to).

If more data is needed on the log, I can get it. I'll even try to sort out a graph of some kind.

Any help is more than appreciated.
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scubadoober
Vacuum at idle should be a larger negative number and your fuel correction is all over the map. Could be the front O2 on its way out and may be why it only does it at idle and not under higher throttle. The front controls light load corrections and could be a good start.
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Snoshado
scubadoober said:
Vacuum at idle should be a larger negative number and your fuel correction is all over the map. Could be the front O2 on its way out and may be why it only does it at idle and not under higher throttle. The front controls light load corrections and could be a good start.
Click to expand...
Is there a way to test this? I'm not a fan of throwing money at possible fixes unless I absolutely have to.

Thanks for the quick and knowledgeable response. :)
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scubadoober
The vacuum/leak can be tested but the o2 can't to my knowledge.
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