[stan_t]

Nice car, congratulations.

I'm sure you know to be careful. It isn't realistic at your age (or my age, or probably any age for some people) to NOT "get on it" driving a car like that.

I can make the car a little safer for you and protect your transmission too -- wanna swap turbos? :icon_biggrin:

Stan

 

[stan_t]

1) Fix the coolant leak. Don't listen to shops that told you not to, they are wrong.
2) Find out as much as you can about what was done with the car. Find out who tuned it, for what boost target. Get a dyno sheet if you can, post it here so we can take a look. Log the car, post a log. If you have AP v1 which won't log, you'll need a tatrix cable and a laptop.
3) Drive it as smooth as possible. Don't dump the clutch or stand on the gas hard, the tranny and/or diffs will blow up. Don't push it above 5K. If there are issues, it'd cause damage.
4) Don't drive on the valet mode map if you have the AP. It is unsafe and is meant for driving in parking lots only.
5) If you can make it to the Bay Area, bring it to LIC to have them take a look. EQ Tuning is in Fairfield which is closer, you can bring it there too. While you are here, you can meet up with some local peeps.

Stan

 

[stan_t]

You can shift above 3K, I shift at 4K pretty often. Depends on road conditions. Key to making this car last and you getting very good at driving it is being as smooth as possible and not pushing it.

Find a good Chevron station and fill up there. 91 only, obviously. You should be getting at least 220 miles on a full tank before the "low fuel" light comes on.

Stan

 

[stan_t]

^^ Maybe. That's all I can think it is......being that we had a bacon thread a couple months ago with people posting up their support for bacon.

It's Passover. Bacon is not kosher.

20G is a serious turbo. Your car should be a riot, take it easy for now. There is a track day at Thunderhill on 1st of June, that would be a good opportunity to open it up a little. If you are interested, you need good tires, fresh'ish oil and all the leaks fixed.

Stan

 

[stan_t]

Well I think a 6spd tranny and racing clutch are on call because I'm sure that would help relieve stress on the car.

You don't need a "racing clutch". Only reason (sane) people go to a heavier clutch is if their existing one isn't holding the power of the car -- clutch slips from too much torque. I bet stock STi clutch can hold 350wtq. Heavier clutches will put more strain on the transmission and other drivetrain components, "softer" stockish plate will provide cushioning and actually save your transmission.

Not to mention, heavy duty clutches tend to weigh more and are a pain to drive on the street -- most have really heavy pedal feel and are on/off.

Stan

 

[stan_t]

Stupid question but is the fxt a hydrolic clutch? Typically hydrolic clutches don't don't get heavy with "heavier" pp's.

Miatas have hydraulic clutches and their heavy duty pressure plates make the pedal feel alot heavier :shrug:

Stan

 

[stan_t]

Being fast in a manual car takes skill, 4EAT has the advantage of you not having to shift so you don't get off-boost.

I wouldn't worry too much about practicing 3 second 0-60 pulls. Just keep practicing getting smoother. Use gas mileage as an indicator of your good driving, the smoother you are the better the mileage will be.

Your car should be fast. Faster than most cars on this board. Keep it in one piece and stay safe, it's a big responsibility driving a car that fast on the street.

Stan

 

[stan_t]

You'll be fine, don't change the car. Just keep driving it sanely and be extra cautious when conditions change. First rain after a long dry run -- go slower and allow more room. First snow -- go even slower. You'll be fine.

Stan