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After loosing 4 cars to the floods I want to set the new car up for success. Does anyone know if they make a snorkel kit for the forester?
 

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No they don't. I got a 2nd hand snorkel and adapted it. I have attached it without going through the guard. I'll get some pics up and post them here soon - you can see it in my avatar (it sits on top of the fender)
 

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SNORKEL install

The decision on which side to mount the snorkel in this manner will depend on the location of your windscreen wiper motor. Mine is on the RHS so the snorkel is mounted on the LHS to get a clear pipe run though the air dam in front of the windscreen. I decided to use the 2nd hand snorkel rather than a piece of pipe up the A pillar so as to maintain the air reserve dam in the snorkel itself (and thinking that it would also retain any moisture until it had evaporated).

Pic 1 - Removed the plastic cowling in front of the windscreen to expose the air dam.
Pic 2 – The 2nd hand snorkel off a Mazda Bravo. I cut & blocked off the snorkel piece that goes through the fender and made a new entry point in the back to suit (do this AFTER the pipes and bends are in position!). I made up a rubber flange from a gutter stop plug (90mm I think) and attached with silicone and self tapping screws to the new snorkel entry hole.
Pic 3 – Cut a hole through the firewall and finished off with rubber trim. I had to relocate the security alarm first.
Pic 4 – Mounted a bracket on the A pillar using 2 self-drilling screws. (I used “make-a-bracket”)
Pic 5 – A bracket for the fender on to an existing bolt plus a self-drilling screw horizontally into the fender edge for stability. Note tape protecting edge of hood during this work.
Pic 6 – The inlet rubber bend to which another 60 degree metal bend is attached. (this will depend on the snorkel you use – you could simply add a bend and run a pipe up the A pillar) I had to cut away a little of the sheet metal above the a/c air intake. I also had to cut a hole in the plastic cowling; finished off with rubber trim. Be careful with positioning so as not to interfere with the windscreen wipers. The paper stuck on the windscreen was used to transcribe the position of the bend.
Pic 7 – The plumbing in the engine bay
Pic 8 – The plumbing inside the air dam.
Pic 9 – Finished

To stablise the pipe that runs across the motor and to protect the distributor, I slipped a piece of radiator hose over the pipe. The only minor problem is that the back edge of the hood hits the rubber bend when open - so I have taped that edge for protection.

 

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A little flexable tube and some creativity you can run it through the firewall and into the cab behind the dash. I would recomend making it switchable though. Wouldn't want you to vacuum pack your Subi.
 

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browbaru said:
A little flexable tube and some creativity you can run it through the firewall and into the cab behind the dash. I would recomend making it switchable though. Wouldn't want you to vacuum pack your Subi.
and make sure you leave a window or vent open or you could suck water into the cabin through the rear flow-through vents (which are behind the sides the the rear bar - mine are sealed up) :)
 

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Hey Kevin, since we're talking about deep water, if we don't get the old forum posts back, perhaps you could re-post about the diff/trans breather extensions?
 
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