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98 Forester
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, I will be installing King Springs I bought from Primitive and Paul told me it was going to lift my SF forester about 1.5 inches. I also bought the 1" lift blocks from Jackson Racing that I will also be installing. I've read on these forums that you don't want to lift above 2" because of the CV joints. Well going by these measurements 1.5 + 1 = 2.5 inches. Am I pushing it too far? I really can't bring myself to drop my whole drive train over a half an inch. I wouldn't mind it too much if I get a little less life out of my CV joints than normal. I'm lifting it because I need the clearance with the trails I usually travel over in my forester. So yes it will be worth it :icon_wink:
 

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1998 Forester "S" lifted. Bog-o-matic
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2,006 Posts
It all depends on the axle drop.

Once you lift it see which bottoms out first, the axle or the suspension. If the axle stops the travel you might have some issues.
 

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2001 Forester Slushbox
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1,777 Posts
2.5 inch is really pushing the CV's.
When you unload a wheel over an obstacle that CV may actually bind up.
 

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98 GM67 + 03 SG
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357 Posts
What I've seen so far is that King Springs should, at most, lift you 1.18". I can see vendors listing 1.5" in order to CYA in case bad things happen. Either way, that does bump you over the 2" mark, so some sort of other measure may be necessary.

There have to be others here that are running King Springs and some sort of other lifting method without issue.
 

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The CV angle will determine how much torque it can handle. I'd see how it sits with it all installed first. I'd also at least do a trailing arm bracket drop otherwise your rear wheels will sit pretty far forward in the wheel well.
 

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98 Forester
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the input, I'll see how it sets after the king springs, if I need to I'll just cut my lift blocks down a half inch or down to one quarter of an inch. I want to avoid doing a drive train drop though because I really don't want to do all of that fabricating for brackets.
 

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I reckon you'll be OK

I have 40mm blocks and +30mm springs in the rear = 2.75" with +10mm springs in the front = 2" but then my spring perches have been moved up as well (10 -15 mm I think)
 

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2003 forester XS
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619 Posts
The CV angle will determine how much torque it can handle. I'd see how it sits with it all installed first. I'd also at least do a trailing arm bracket drop otherwise your rear wheels will sit pretty far forward in the wheel well.
how is this done I am looking to do a similar lift as the OP
 

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2006 SG9 X
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157 Posts
I reckon you'll be OK

I have 40mm blocks and +30mm springs in the rear = 2.75" with +10mm springs in the front = 2" but then my spring perches have been moved up as well (10 -15 mm I think)
with the rears you should be able to go more than the 2" as the CV's only move up and down - fronts also turn which is why they can bind with too much angle - well that's what i reckon
 

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2001 Forester Slushbox
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1,777 Posts
with the rears you should be able to go more than the 2" as the CV's only move up and down - fronts also turn which is why they can bind with too much angle - well that's what i reckon
They are also longer than the fronts which gives them a longer range of motion I believe.
 
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