[rally58man]

Ok just serviced the beast (2000 turbo) air filter was ok but changed it, fuel filter looked ok till I tipped old fuel out and it was old fuel out and it was very dirty, changed oil filter and oil, the oil smells a bit fuely don’t like that. Now next to my coil that is bolted to my inlet manifold to the left I have two connections into the manifold one has a rubber pipe pushed on to it but the other has nothing on it and when I cover the pipe the engine revs drop I presume this is not right but cannot see any pipe to connect to it….help.

 

[stevem]

got a pic ?

The manifold shouldn't be open to the air...

 

[don1952]

The one nearest the coil pack goes to the Bypass valve, the other should be capped, IIRC. (not totally clear in this pic) Useful for boost gauge connecting.

 

[rally58man]

AAAARRRR As you see from dons pic just behind the red alternator connector there are two small rubber pipes the one on the left I have but the one on right that go’s under the coil I don’t and where dose it go and what dose it do …. Thanks don for the pic:Banane35:

 

[stevem]

It goes under the coil to the dumpvalve signal port (the small pipe) if I remember correctly.

 

[road_rager]

It goes under the coil to the dumpvalve signal port (the small pipe) if I remember correctly.

that's correct, I was connecting it to my new dump valve last week

 

[don1952]

It goes under the coil to the dumpvalve signal port (the small pipe) if I remember correctly.

As Steve says......

The following post may help.................

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/775918-post8.html

The small bore pipe is the "link" between 22314 and 22310 on the diagram.

However this only came into use for MT from serial number 464725 onwards so you may not have it.

Prior to that EGR system as below..............

 

[stevem]

circled for clarity

 

[don1952]

Was thinking he was referring to this smaller bore pipe.........

Which also tees into the Bypass valve pipework

 

[rally58man]

no sorry don the one to the right lower arrow so now i now where it should go and its not been connected i will reconnect it but what will it or what should it have done and will it make a diffrence

 

[don1952]

no sorry don the one to the right lower arrow so now i now where it should go and its not been connected i will reconnect it but what will it or what should it have done and will it make a diffrence

Possibilities.......

Pipe missing off manifold - rough/poor idle, possible whistling sound.

Bypass Valve vacuum line disconnected - valve won't open on throttle closure - compressor surge at minimum, possible higher than normal boost pressure in inlet pipework.

 

[rally58man]

forgive me don just got home opend bonnet and it is the upper green arrowd one the small bore pipe its not there

 

[don1952]

forgive me don just got home opend bonnet and it is the upper green arrowd one the small bore pipe its not there

Refer back to second part of post #7

However I'm thinking a photo of your actual setup would reveal all :icon_biggrin:

 

[rally58man]

don not as clean as yours also trying to put some pics on :icon_confused:

how do i get pics on :chair:

 

[rally58man]

don and any one have a look at pics

i have no pipes free to attach to manifold

don as you see (second pic) the pipe from the blue tee from the left go's straght past to tee into another pipe and it loos like all this has been there for sometime but i think it should tee into manifold as it passes but as i say it all looks genuine.

 

[don1952]

Looks fine.

As in my original post you have a missing blanking piece on that stub.
Very convenient for a boost gauge connection.:biggrin:

And you have both Tees at the Bypass valve connections.
You can carry out the Bypass valve mod as well if you want. details on the pic below and technical reasoning from Simon :biggrin:.

The lower valve chamber acts to soften the valves action, its fed with manifold pressure that (due to the bleed back to the (pre turbo) intake) is closer to atmospheric than the pressure (vacuum or boost) in the top chamber.

On old valves with the spring going soft that extra boost fed to the 'wrong side' of the diaphragm opens the valve and boost is leaked away back to the intake, the turbo cannot overcome the leakage and give full boost, remove the pressure feed to the lower chamber so it only sees atmoshperic (as it does on the Impreza valve) and it shuts and hold boost.

Glad thats sorted :biggrin::biggrin:

 

[rally58man]

holy moly don what you done to my car :icon_razz::icon_razz::icon_razz: it go's like the wind :icon_razz: just one problem is tick over hunnting between 500 and 800rpm sounds like a works subaru is it just ajustment ....O and the fuel light has come on but that from the gunning she just had down the lane....its mad taken me back 30years you can kill yourself in one of these :crazy:

 

[don1952]

holy moly don what you done to my car :icon_razz::icon_razz::icon_razz: it go's like the wind :icon_razz: just one problem is tick over hunnting between 500 and 800rpm sounds like a works subaru is it just ajustment ....O and the fuel light has come on but that from the gunning she just had down the lane....its mad taken me back 30years you can kill yourself in one of these :crazy:

Now you have that hole in the manifold plugged you probably need to reset the ECU :biggrin:

From Scoobypedia.............

Classic (JECS) ECU Reset

1. Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature, turn engine off
2. Locate the two ECU connectors, located under the steering column and consist of a black plastic male and female connector, and a green male female connector
3. With the ignition OFF connect black to black and green to green.
4. Turn on ignition, do not start the engine, depress the accelerator pedal to full throttle, then return it to the half-throttle position and hold for a few seconds, and then release
5. Engine Check lamp turns on
6. Start engine and then drive for at least one minute, keeping road speed above 11 Km/h.
7. ECU is now re-set.
8. At this point the check engine light should start to flash the all clear signal (steady 1/2 second interval flashes). If the check engine light does not flash, or indicates some other sequence, there is a fault present in the system, and should be professionally checked for necessary repairs.
9. Stop the car and turn off the engine.
10. Disconnect the black and green connectors.
11. Job complete

Hopefully that should do it.

 

[rally58man]

Thanks don for all the info we are out this weekend in the escort see how she go's i am only on the spanners at weston park staffordshire.i will reset ecu this weekend.......now wheres that neckbrace i used to have:woohoo:

 

[The Rookie]

Prior to that EGR system as below..............

EGR? Shum mishtake shurely......we have no EGR!

As for the BOV mod, I found it easier to strip the whole lot off, connect one pipe from maniofld direct to 'top' (furthest from IC) port and remove the T-piece where the pipework went back into the trbo inlet pipe.

Simon