[tmpeiren]

I need to get new rotors for my 2004 Sub Forester XS Auto.

I drive a lot on the highway and when not on the highway, the side streets are all hills.

The highway is I 84 from NY to PA, all hills too.

What suggestions do you have for whether to get smooth or slotted rotors?

What type of pads to pair with them?

Thanks for all the help.

Tim

 

[toddlamp]

I need to get new rotors for my 2004 Sub Forester XS Auto.

I drive a lot on the highway and when not on the highway, the side streets are all hills.

The highway is I 84 from NY to PA, all hills too.

What suggestions do you have for whether to get smooth or slotted rotors?

What type of pads to pair with them?

Thanks for all the help.

Tim

I have always used slotted rotors when I needed to replace them. I was always told that the slots allow for gases created while braking to escape. Not sure if that's true or not but it sounded good. At the very least they add some surface area for cooling.

They look cool too.

Any pads should work but it's definitely recommended that you replace the pads at the same time as the rotors regardless of how new the pads are. Get the proper pads for your environment and your driving style. I mention the environment because some really aggressive pads are awful in cold temps. I had a set on my WRX in the winter time and I had to drag them for 1/4mile to get some heat otherwise they would not for for 100ft or so, haha. It was quite scary the first time I had to leave work and stop at the security gate (good thing I had a working e-brake). Also remember that really aggressive pads will wear down rotors much quicker.

 

[The Black Box]

For the street? You only need blanks. If you've experienced fade on the side streets upgrade to a slightly more aggressive pad.

 

[fraktal]

For the street? You only need blanks. If you've experienced fade on the side streets upgrade to a slightly more aggressive pad.

listen to this guy!

 

[funkymonkey1002]

I've been using slotted for thousands of miles due to some good deals from shops closing. However I finally have switched back to blanks.


GET BLANKS. (the centric premiums are quite good and one of the few aftermarket blanks that are fully coated like the high end slotted ones).

slotted makes braking less smooth, less braking performance, uneven pad wear, faster pad wear etc. Theres is -absolutely- NO benefit unless you have a serious track car (well aside from bling I guess?).


/end thread


I like the hawk HPS as a general pad, but have lately been hearing good things about the newer stoptech pads. Sounds like the new stoptechs have very good initial bite and fade resistance.

 

[wagn]

Pad outgas/slotted excuse is so 1970 before the new pad compounds elimanated outgas. Get Brembo blanks and HPS as an upgrade, cheap blanks and pads will do fine for your driving. Sure if I were to drop $3k on a nize BABK it would likely have slotted/drilled scalloped rotors:biggrin:

If possible replace pad/rotor NOT at the same time, rotor first, as green pad/ rotor makes for difficult bedding-in process.

In four years and 140k I've gone thru many sets of pads/rotors. In a two weekend DE effort my Hawk Blues ate thru a new set of rotors up front.

Oh and brake sweep/friction area is reduced on slotted rotors. :icon_wink:

 

[tmpeiren]

Ok - Looks like blanks.

You guys are great. :banana:

I have found these:
CENTRIC PREMIUM BRAKE DISC, FLOATING TYPE, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY -- 5 x 100 mm bolt hole pattern; 293.5 mm outer diameter; 12.9 mm bolt size; 22 mm minimum thickness; Features double disc ground finish that ensures parallelism, eliminates run out, and provides near perfect disc thickness variation; Fully machined surfaces provide smoother, quieter stops, and longer brake pad life; OE specification center-split core castings offer proper heat transfer and thermal efficiency for improved braking power and safety; With superior black E-coating on all non-friction surface to provide long lasting corrosion protection; Meets or exceeds OEM standards; With Centric's limited 90-day or 3,000-mile warranty.

Or these:
EBC ULTIMAX PLAIN ROTOR, VENTED, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY -- 5 studs and 11.56 in. diameter; OEM quality replacement rotor made to the same specifications as original parts using G3000 gray iron; Precision machined, balanced, and 100 percent one by one run out inspected to guarantee zero rotor distortion out of the box; With EBC's 12-month or 10,000-mile warranty excluding wear and tear or race use; Install this brake rotor yourself with the help of EBC's instructional video P/N E35DVD083 which is sold separately.

What have you found?

Please include some suggestions for pads!!!!!!

 

[toddlamp]

Pad outgas/slotted excuse is so 1970 before the new pad compounds elimanated outgas.

Damn salesman! Takin' me for everything i've got. :lol:

 

[funkymonkey1002]

Ok - Looks like blanks.

You guys are great. :banana:

I have found these:
CENTRIC PREMIUM BRAKE DISC, FLOATING TYPE, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY -- 5 x

Or these:
EBC ULTIMAX PLAIN ROTOR, VENTED, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY

What have you found?

Please include some suggestions for pads!!!!!!

I really like the centrics. Picked them up off tirerack. Obviously high quality rotor for cheaper even than the brembo blanks or the same price as most cheapo parts store blanks.

For pads, I had been recommending hawk HPS usually, but it seems like the new stoptechs might be better for some people as they have better cold/initial bite while still great fade resistance (no personal experience, but this seems to be the sentiments of most who have tried them).

 

[tmpeiren]

For pads, I had been recommending hawk HPS usually, but it seems like the new stoptechs might be better for some people as they have better cold/initial bite while still great fade resistance (no personal experience, but this seems to be the sentiments of most who have tried them).

Which StopTechs have you heard about?

StopTech Street Performance

or

PosiQuiet Semi-Metallic

or

PosiQuiet Ceramic

Thanks.