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2000 Forester automatic
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi, New here but not new to Subaru's had a 02 WRX bought bran new and beat it to a tune of 260,000 mile until it spun a crank bearing. Sold it and with the money bought a 00 Outback wagon well had that for four years and a week ago wrecked it dukes of hazard style. A control arm let loose at 55-60mph causing me to hit a 2ft snow bank at the end of someones driveway. The car flew through the air about 15 feet as there was a ditch on the other side of the snow bank.(No tracks in the new snow for 15 or more feet). I am currently rebuilding that. So I have been part of WRX forums and Outback forums.

So now I have found a 2000 Forester, low miles, body and interior mint. Underneath unknown, as we still have 3 feet of snow on the ground. Here is the kicker. A old woman owned this didn't drive it much, and it has sat for the last 5years nobody starting it or anything. When the snow melts away and I can get it home. What will be the best way to get this vehicle running in top shape again. I would like to know from someone has done this before. I know all fluids and filters will have to be changed especially fuel. Probably all belts, including timing belt. Plugs, wires, brakes, tires,and battery etc. My major concern is the inside of the engine, the rust that may have formed on the inside of the cylinder walls. I live in Northern New York, Summers get very humid, Winters very snowy. Plus the salt on the roads well don't have to worry much about that. LOL

So what are the best steps to insure the best results of getting a Subaru engine going again after it has sat for 5years. Thanks
 

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2004 Forester XT Premium 4EAT
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29,432 Posts
A complete re-seal wouldn't be a bad idea - most gaskets and seals rely on lubrication from circulating fluids and can dry out and shrink when an engine sits that long. Hoses get brittle too, so I'd replace those as well.
 

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2000 Forester automatic
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
First thing I would do is pull the plugs and put some top oil in to brake up any rust before turning over the motor. If the rings are stuck you,ll brake one for sure.
Thanks for the replies, what top oil do you recommend? I was thinking of WD-40 I have heard good things about the new line up of specialist products. Should I try the rust penetrating stuff or stick with regular WD-40 or just regular motor oil? How much should be put in each cylinder? What's the best way to get the oil in each cylinder without pulling the engine. I'd assume a long rubber hose.
 

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2000 Forester automatic
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A complete re-seal wouldn't be a bad idea - most gaskets and seals rely on lubrication from circulating fluids and can dry out and shrink when an engine sits that long. Hoses get brittle too, so I'd replace those as well.
Yeah, this falls under the etc, category I pretty much planned on doing all gaskets seals and rubber hoses. Hopefully I don't have to worry about headgasket problems, but not a big deal as I have done them myself on my outback with no issue.
 

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2003 Forester XS auto
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640 Posts
instead of oil, i'd squirt a 50/50 mix of acetone and dexron 3 ATF into the cylinders, let it soak for 24 hrs and then turn over the crank pulley bolt with a long cheater bar repeatedly. DO NOT use the starter motor. If rings are stuck from rust, slowly work backwards and forwards until free. Smash rings and it will drink oil and smoke like a tire fire
 

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2000 Forester automatic
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
instead of oil, i'd squirt a 50/50 mix of acetone and dexron 3 ATF into the cylinders, let it soak for 24 hrs and then turn over the crank pulley bolt with a long cheater bar repeatedly. DO NOT use the starter motor. If rings are stuck from rust, slowly work backwards and forwards until free. Smash rings and it will drink oil and smoke like a tire fire
I think the only issue I will have putting the oil into the engine is trying to get full coverage. Plus the fact its a boxer and not a V engine or inline. Where full coverage happens just by gravity and having the right amount in the cylinder. I was almost thinking it may be best to fill the engine completely full with a solution in through the crank case. Filling it until the oil starts coming up the fill tube.
 
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