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2001 Forester S
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2001 S. There's a leak at the receiver drier intake pipe. The entire receiver drier is corroded and in really bad shape so I got a new receiver drier and new o-rings. Once I discharge the freon from the system and remove the old receiver drier, do I need to fill the new one with liquid? Or simply swap it out and then recharge the system?

Thanks

Mike

 

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04 Forester X, MT
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1,051 Posts
that corrosion looks pretty bizarre.

you're supposed to get the refrigerant sucked out and collected at a shop.

you need to pull a vacuum on the system with a pump and have a manifold gauge set to recharge properly.
 

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2004 Forester 4EAT
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5,458 Posts
If there is still any freon left, have a shop suck it out. After that, you can do all of your parts replacing yourself. Then, have a shop vacuum it down, check for leaks, and refill. No matter how good a mechanic you are, A/C requires special tools.
 

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2001 Forester S
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I do have the a manifold gauge set and have recharged before. I believe there is some freon left. If I drive it to a shop and have them vacuum and collect the remaining freon, am I able to drive the car home and continue the repair - being that there is no pressure in the system?
 

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04 Forester X, MT
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1,051 Posts
It should have a low pressure cut-out but I would unplug the connector on the A/C coil for the clutch (on top of compressor) just to be safe.
 

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I believe the green color is dye from the lubricant. A green dye is added to allow leak site ID.

You have lost some lubricant due to the leak. How much is hard to say. Most add 2-3 oz when a leak occurs. You need to ID the lubricant; PAG, PEG, etc.

I had to rebuild my AC when compressor rotor failed (split!). I used double-end capped PAG from ackits.com, a new receiver-drier, and used compressor. I air pressure-blasted the condensor, drained the compressor, and added entire 8 oz of PAG to system. I vacuumed for 1 hr, but most shops only do 15 mins. No problems so far. I added the PAG in the receiver-drier and compressor. You could also pour some into the condensor.

good luck

PS: The leak site may be the electrical pressure switch fitting. Another oring seal.
 

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2003 Forester XS
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804 Posts
Question I'm doing this on my Legacy (1995) same stuff.. but I have a question when they say leaks happen it's most likey the o-rings but all the o-rings or the orings at the compressor outputs?

Nevertheless to be safe I'm going to replace my o-rings and my leaky condenser and expansion valve.
 

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1998 Forester
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213 Posts
Question I'm doing this on my Legacy (1995) same stuff.. but I have a question when they say leaks happen it's most likey the o-rings but all the o-rings or the orings at the compressor outputs?

Nevertheless to be safe I'm going to replace my o-rings and my leaky condenser and expansion valve.
On a 1995 model it would not hurt to change all of the o rings. I would only use factory o rings.
 

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2003 Forester XS
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804 Posts
one other question I have a brand new receiver/dryer and it has ports labelled in/out In would be from the compressor and out would be to the condenser?
 

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2003 Forester XS
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804 Posts
Trying to remove the evaporator but here is where I'm stuck.. I got the low side piping off which was the largest nut but I can't seem to get the smaller one off is it counterclockwise to loosen it because it feels like it's not moving at all.
 

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Trying to remove the evaporator but here is where I'm stuck.. I got the low side piping off which was the largest nut but I can't seem to get the smaller one off is it counterclockwise to loosen it because it feels like it's not moving at all.
You need to use 2 wrenches, one to hold the evaporator side male end and one to turn the female nut on the tube from engine side. If you released the large hose nut w/o restraining the male evaporator side, you may have damaged the evaporator tube (twisted and cracked possibily).

Get a shop manual!

good luck
 

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2003 Forester XS
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804 Posts
You need to use 2 wrenches, one to hold the evaporator side male end and one to turn the female nut on the tube from engine side. If you released the large hose nut w/o restraining the male evaporator side, you may have damaged the evaporator tube (twisted and cracked possibily).

Get a shop manual!

good luck
I already have a service manual for my year and I did the same two wrenches like they show in the manual.. It's crazy how tight it's on! and I used PB blaster on it.


tread tape should help if I can get it undone and not mangled right? All this just to change the last few O-rings in the system....
 

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Thread tape won't help seal oring seals and might cause problems. Use Nylog oring lubricant to get a good oring seal. Use antisieze sparingly on the male threads to ease future disconnects.

good luck
 
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