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2001 Forester S auto
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What's the best way to rehab a junkyard muffler? Currently I have a very restrictive puny cylindrical muffler and teeny exhaust tip and I want it gone! I saw this OEM one and it doesn't look badly rusted, just a few spots here and there, and on the pipe, so I couldn't resist for around $35.00. On the other hand, it's been sitting outside for who knows how long. Thoughts?

Edit - The muffler and pipe for the Foz were $9.97 and $10.97.
 

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2005 Forester Automatic
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IMO you overpaid by $70. The first being the $35 effort you went to, to harvest a used muffler. etc....

That being said, the muffler in your pic does look decent. They rust apart from the outside. You could try and sand blast the exterior rust off. Anything short of removing ALL the rust means it will just continue. I think its a short term solution at best, unless you engage in heroics....
 

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2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
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Remove the loose dirt & rust, followed by a coating of Rust-Oleum B-B-Q black high temperature paint & you should be good to go. You'll probably need a new exhaust gasket & mounting hardware.

Another option is a custom muffler shop fabricated Magnaflow axle back free flowing & sounds pretty good. It's also it's stainless steel.

We have one installed on both our Foresters! Here's a link to my Member Journal write up:

Magnaflow muffler & Wicked (brand) 3" stainless steel tip installed!

Bobby...

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 
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Discussion Starter #4
IMO you overpaid by $70. The first being the $35 effort you went to, to harvest a used muffler. etc....
It was already off the car and just lying underneath it. The only effort involved was loading it into the wheelbarrow.
 

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2012 Forester X Auto
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@SueBrew -
Looks like a pretty good deal to me.
The rubber mounts even look to be in good shape.
Sandblasting will remove rust but may result in a muffler with holes. Your example doesn't look like it needs it.
Stop by your local auto parts store and you will find several products that will remove and/or arrest rust by chemically converting it.
A couple of bucks solution for the rust and some high temp paint to protect it and you should be good to go.
 

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2001 Forester S auto
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the help you guys! It doesn't seem like it, and not that most junkyard patrons would do so, but I'm worried about the occasional jerk stuffing a wad of paper or a banana peel in the pipe. I'll put a shop vac snorkel in the tip just to check for unimpeded airflow at the other end...
 

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2005 Forester X and XT Manual and Auto
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on the walker quiet flow replacements i've bought (OEM style), the first one rusted badly around where the pipe meets the muffler on both sides. So the 2nd one i bought (had the car a long time) I used some high temp paint on those areas - so far it seems to have helped curb the rust.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ha! I looked at my receipt wrong in the OP, the radiator fan assembly for my '03 Maxima was $34.97. The muffler and pipe for the Foz were $9.97 and $10.97...
 

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2003 EJ20K Forester
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That thing looks to be in pretty good condition. I would do nothing aside from shake it to encourage any loose bits out one end or the other, and install it with new hardware/gasket. Liberally use anti-seize on the hardware.
 

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That thing looks to be in pretty good condition. I would do nothing aside from shake it to encourage any loose bits out one end or the other, and install it with new hardware/gasket. Liberally use anti-seize on the hardware.
X2, looks pretty good, light surface rust only and OP checked flow with shopvac, maybe wash the dirt off, dry and paint with black BBQ paint, install and drive! :)
 

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1998 Forester S Stock automatic
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35 dollar used muffler

If you go to rockauto .com, you can get a new one for $35.79 + about $10 shipping. I bought one, and works good. I am rebuilding a 98 Forester S. If the used one is no good that is.
 

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I wouldn't even bother with paint. As soon as you get a rock chip in it, it won't be doing anything for you. Mufflers tend to rust from the inside anyway. The OEM one will be made of a better, more corrosion resistant material than the $35 RockAuto replacement.
 

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2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
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Really no need for any major sanding. If it was me, I'd just remove what's loose & spray with Rust-Oleum B-B-Q black high temperature spray paint. Once done, you could add a chrome or stainless steel exhaust tip.

As to chrome paint. You're not going to see much of that muffler under the Forester. I'd go with flat black.

Bobby...

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 
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Discussion Starter #15
OMG!! Look at that weak tip weld from just 3 years ago on this aftermarket junk! My fault that I didn't pay attention to what they did underneath. They cut the exhaust flange and welded it there as well... and just as badly rusted! My car hasn't even seen any snow/road salt here in this oven known as central Texas. Is there a difference in the quality of an exhaust weld joint, or types of materials used?
 

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OMG!! Look at that weak tip weld from just 3 years ago on this aftermarket junk! My fault that I didn't pay attention to what they did underneath. They cut the exhaust flange and welded it there as well... and just as badly rusted! My car hasn't even seen any snow/road salt here in this oven known as central Texas. Is there a difference in the quality of an exhaust weld joint, or types of materials used?
If you don't want to worry about rusting, stainless steel is the way to go. The downside, it's expensive! :icon_eek:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 

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Like someone mentioned above, exhaust systems rust from the inside out. Water vapor accumulates inside and sits, causing slow rust. The Subaru OEM exhaust parts tend to last longer than aftermarket. Snow and salt are the enemy from the outside. Best to wash the car often in rust prone areas of the country. Hi temp paint is a temporary solution at best. Sorry 2.5x. And yes, SS is the way to go.
 

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2001 Forester S auto
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Discussion Starter #18
UPDATE:

Sanded it down some more with a brass drill bit scrubber. I just wanted to get the creases and the crimps on the ends of the muffler. Then I emptied a whole can of BBQ grill flat black enamel on only the muffler, leaving the tip or the pipe alone.
I had it installed yesterday at a Mom & Pop tire/muffler shop. They of course welded it for ease of install. I got a P0136 right after on the drive home.... Not sure if the oxygen sensor wiring harness got jiggled during the install, but this morning my mechanic said to reset the CEL and see if it returns. I did that, and have been tooling around town running errands most of the day (about 30-40 miles). Would the light have come back by now if it was a real problem?
 

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<snipped> mechanic said to reset the CEL and see if it returns. I did that, and have been tooling around town running errands most of the day (about 30-40 miles). Would the light have come back by now if it was a real problem?
@SueBrew I'd think it would have come back quickly if the fault was still there.

P0136 - Rear oxygen sensor circuit malfunction

The rear O2 sensor is near the engine. Did they work on your entire exhaust system? :confused:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
From what they told me and what I saw Bobby, it looks like they just cut off the flange and welded it at the point where the pipe ends meet. I haven't driven it today, but I'm about to run some errands. I think it was just a fluke occurence. Maybe the sensor sent a weird signal to the ECU because exhaust back pressure had been reduced from learned settings with the restrictive puny muffler I had? If it comes back on again, I'll be looking at the sensor.

 

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