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1989 Turbo II 5spd TII
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62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive been searching around for a solid answer on rear diff whine/moan/noise..most which say to change rear diff fluid but I just did and nothing has changed. Ive also checked tire pressure and they are at 35 psi all around.

The problem is a whine/moan when I start to drive coming from the rear. Slow speed seems to be a little bit quieter than at 55-60ish mph. I had my wife drive the car while I had the seats folded down and listening for the sound in the back of the car. Seems to come from in between both strut tower area.

So my questions are:

Whats broken? and if the diff is going out, what other diffs will fit like a glove on my car.

1999 Subaru Forester S
4 Speed Auto
160k miles on odometer (engine rebuild at 146k miles :D)
Everything absolutely factory. Nothing performance
 

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Premium Member
2019 Crosstrek 2018 XT
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14,710 Posts
Probably wheel bearings. Subaru is known for this. Usually one will go by 100K miles
 

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Registered
1989 Turbo II 5spd TII
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62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ill check bearings tonight then.
But how do i know its a wheel bearing? The only wheel bearing experiece ive had were front bearing but that sound was a very grindy sound. Like the sound of ice in a blender you know...very grindy. The sound that comes from rear sounds like the way manual transmission sound when in reverse. Like a whine

When the front wheel bearing went out, it was louder when making right turns and got quieter while making left turns. This sound starts quietly and gets louder with speed. Like driving in reverse...starts off quiet then if you speed up in reverse it gets a louder whine. Also the wheels bearing was on a bugeye not on the Forester.
 

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2004 Forester Automatic
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85 Posts
I believe the rear bearings on the bugeye are the same. You may not be able to feel or hear the bearing on jack stands. I could not but when they came out it was apparent.

One option if you are very careful is to buy a stethoscope with a probe on the end. Put the car up on jack stands (all wheels) and then remove the wheels. Put the car in drive and put the scope on the rear hubs and listen for the noise.

Btw, I have an 87 N/A FC, balanced motor with 89 rotors grooved for 3mm seals. Street port with road race headers, dual pipes back to a single muffler. Makes ~170-180whp.
 

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2004 Forester Automatic
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85 Posts
I know of plenty of subsides that had to replace the rear wheel bearings. I have heard of none replacing the rear diff bearings.
 

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Registered
1989 Turbo II 5spd TII
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62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
True but He may be up to something. When I bought the car it was riding just fine but after the rebuild other things started happening.

I also have a bad shake on the car a few miles into the break in that I havent figure out what it is...at first I figured it was the tires but we got to the point where bought brand new tires and still shakes. Im thinking the drive shaft but I dont know...anyone??
This is the main reason why I havent set the car on jack stands and putting it in drive. The last thing I want if for this thing to shake itself off the stands.

Now I have more questions.

1. Can a bad drive shaft mess up a diff like that? With it vibrating all the time?

2. How can I tell if its bad. I can push it by hand in the center of it and i can move it. Its not a "play" in it...its not hard to push but it isnt easy either not like slop or anything like that.

Another thing, the center nut on the cross member isnt touching the cross member. Its threaded all the way up but theres a gap. I tried putting a washer inbetween thinking that I was missing something but that didnt help. It just sits there and rattles on decel.


Sorry about all the questions. It may not even be related to why the diff sounds the way it does but i figured id throw more info.
 
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