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I like how you think!! Nice to see that somebody else on here will be heading off the pavement with their Subaru.

I'm pretty sure we had a thread running on this subject on the old forum but nobody had actually made any parts. Anyway, I recently did some testing to determine if there would be much benefit to having quick discos.

There is a test that was devised by a 4x4 magazine some time ago called Ramp Travel Index. This test was devised as a standard/repeatable method to test the articulation of different rigs, and normalize them to negate wheelbase advantages. You can find a good explanation and a diagram here: http://www.okoffroad.com/okrovers/events-rti-02.htm

My 2002 Forester got the following scores on a homemade ramp, with the tires at 36psi:
Stock = 397
Disco'd = 458

A decent score for a modern stock 4x4 is 400-500, so these numbers are pretty good! It does show that disconnecting the anti sway bar can be effective. If you have stiffer aftermarket bars, then the benefit will be even greater.

I'm working on making some quick disconnects, but it isn't as easy to do as it is on many 4x4's because there is less room to work with, and the end link configuration is different.
 

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2011 Toyota Tacoma DCSB Auto
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If yall do make a disconnect id secure the sway bar nothing bending a swaybar that just floping around
 

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BenMara said:
If yall do make a disconnect id secure the sway bar nothing bending a swaybar that just floping around
Yep, that is part of the deal with quick discos (or slow discos for that matter).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
disconnect one end?

you might only have to disconnect one end.
just have to check it out carefully.

I had a Jeep Comanche with moderate lift because it was a unibody construction. With endlink disconnects, I got far better articulation.
I rigged up a way to keep the sway bar out of the way when disconnected.

Reconnecting the endlinks is a chore though.
 

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trailnimal said:
you might only have to disconnect one end.
just have to check it out carefully.
That is exactly my plan!
 

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2001 Outback
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A bit of a follow up to MountainBikers post, copied from my post on www.offroadsubarus.com Thanks for the inspiration Curt!!!;)

I'm going to let This web page do most of the explaining, and if you scroll down, it shows lots of stock vehicle scores.

First you build yourself a 20deg. incline ramp.

Yes my ramp length is WAY optomistic, but I didn't want to cut down the lumber that I 'borrowed' (without his knowledge :twisted:) from my pop.

Then you drive up the ramp until a wheel almost comes off the ground. I cheated a little on this run, my rear wheel is off the ground a little bit.


This is my first run up with my anti-sway bars still connected, I made it 35.75" up the ramp for an RTI score of 359.66. Note; I kept my tire pressure at 35psi which is where I normally run them, in competitions, folks lower pressures to get a better score.

Second run up, I disconnected one rear end link, 41" up the ramp for an RTI score of 412.47

Note the distance between anti-sway bar and mount.

Third run up, both anti-sway bars disconnected, 47.75" up the ramp, RTI score 480.38 this is as good or better than alot of stock "4X4's". I think I would have even gone further but my unhooked end link crashed with the mount.


I know that MountainBiker has also done some testing on his SF model, so I'll let him chime in with his scores. I also have to add that I do have a 20mm anti-sway bar installed, so I would have done better on my first run if I had the stock bar.

Lastly, I must include my 'RTS', 'Ramp Transport System'...

The wheelbarrow was purchased over 50yrs ago when my Grandfather built his house, still has the OEM tire. :lol:
 

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Mr. April 2008, Image Master
2005 X
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That ramp looks like it could have a further existance as some north shore kinda trail addition... :twisted:
 

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2001 Outback
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The Wraith said:
That ramp looks like it could have a further existance as some north shore kinda trail addition... :twisted:
Back in the day I would have jumped my bike off that ramp, if I did it now I would end up broken. It's 41" tall at 10'. It was North Shore trail inspiration to install the expanded metal.:cool:
 

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Right now, I'm experimenting with the sway bars disconnected completely. I ran with just the front disconnected and there wasn't much difference; disconnected the rear yesterday - BIG difference; feels strange but I'm going to leave it a little while and see how it goes.
 

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carljwnc said:
Back in the day I would have jumped my bike off that ramp, if I did it now I would end up broken.
Yeah, me too! It would've been on my candy apple red Schwinn Stingray, with the ape hanger handlebars, sissy bar and the drag slick rear tire. I'm sure there would've been blood! :help1:
 

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Questions Kevin...When you disconnected the front bar, did you disconnect one or both sides??? Were you aware of the disconneted bar 'crashing' into anything??? I think that the big problem with front anti-sway bar disconnecting is that there is too much to worry about as far as contact with other parts of the car, could be better or could be worse depending on if you have one or both sides disconnected, I think this is the big question. Having the bar disconnected certainly provides an advantage as far as articulation goes.

Disconnecting the rear bar seems to be OK as long as you unhook the left side where there isn't much for the free side of the bar to crash into.

Think I'm going to have to bust out the ramp again for more testing, AND some big bike jumps.:lol::eek:mgwtfbbq
 

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I disconnected both ends (one front control arm bracket was already broken you may recall). I strapped both sway bars out of the way with cable ties.
 

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Kevin said:
(one front control arm bracket was already broken you may recall).
I forgot about that.

What I also forgot to do was pay attention to what the anti-sway bar was doing on the side of the car that wasn't on the ramp. This weekend I'm going to get the ramp out again and do some more research on what happens with the bar disconnected on one and both sides (and this time I'll completly remove my end link(s) ), and with the one side removed I'll move the ramp to the other side of the car. So we should be able to tell if anything bad is going to happen.
 

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2001 Outback
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carljwnc said:
This weekend I'm going to get the ramp out again and do some more research on what happens
Hasn't happened yet, but it will... Whole family had the flu last weekend and my in-laws were in town for the little girls b-day, this weekend it's been snowing:? and cold, such is life........
 

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2001 Outback
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Well, I finally got out my ramp again and compleatly removed one endlink from each end of the car. This time I moved the ramp from one side to the other and checked what the disconnected side was doing. I'm happy to report that the disconnected side did not make contact with anything, you do have to remove the endlink or else the disconnected link will crash with the control arm in front and the lateral link in the rear regardless whether you disconnect it on top or bottom.

Then, just for fun, I drove to work the next day sans anti-sway bars. Cushy ride, but holy body-roll batman, I certainly wouldn't want them disconnected all the time.

I do have pics of the car on the ramp if anyone is interested, but I didn't see any real need to post them.
 

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I have all the hardware for the quick disconnect endlinks. Just need to do some cutting and drilling, and then they'll be ready for final assembly and fitting.

I just need to find some time for the install and testing. Hopefully I'll have a test report (yes, including pictures) by mid-August.
 

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MountainBiker said:
I have all the hardware for the quick disconnect endlinks. Just need to do some cutting and drilling, and then they'll be ready for final assembly and fitting.

I just need to find some time for the install and testing. Hopefully I'll have a test report (yes, including pictures) by mid-August.
WHOOHOO!!!:woohoo:Can't wait to see the results.:icon_cool: Did you end up with those discos from McMaster??? If you think they look good, I may go on and order some.:icon_biggrin:
 

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I can't recommend those quick disco rod ends just yet. They are quite awkward to use, and difficult since there isn't a flange to grab onto. However, since I have them, I do plan to install them and test them out.

Here is what we are talking about, a store bought quick disconnect rod end:
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/framework.asp?reqTyp=cad&PN=6058K34&view=2D&size=2

If these don't prove to be acceptable, then I will employ hitch pin clips, similar to the system shown here:
http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/suspension/swaydiscon.html
 

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Front QD setup, same on both sides:

Two hitch pin clips are removed from each side for offroad. It works decent. But the hitch pin clips are tough to get lined up when reconnecting. The long bolt (and small springs) are what keep the disconnected anti-swaybar from swinging so far that it hits stuff during articulation.

This system was fine on-road for several months, but it broke when left connected offroad! I may do a re-design.



Rear QD Setup on one side with McMaster QD rod-ends (the other side uses standard rod ends like many aftermarket endlinks and stays connected):

The endlink on the QD side is removed completely for offroad. I made these quite a bit longer than the stock links to enable the bar to swing around on the QD side without hitting anything.

These work okay, except for 3 things:
1) The angle is pretty extreme for the rod ends. I may need to bend the anti-sway bar to get a straighter shot for the rod ends.
2) The McMaster QD rod ends have a little bit of play, that becomes larger during use (as expected). The knocking noise is quite loud and annoying.
3) The McMaster QD is a bit difficult to operate, even when on level ground. Small amounts of road grit make them difficult to slide, expecially since the sliding sleeve doesn't have a flange to grab on to.
 
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