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2006 Forester
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55 Posts
2006 normally aspirated Forester with 175K mi -

Finished 4 doors and hatch. Down 4-5 db at idle and 6-7 db at 65 mph on smooth highway. I did not test before or after on a rough road.

Used Raamat as instructed. Only used Ensolite in 8" circles behind the speakers, but over the Raamat.

My Pioneer AVH-x3600BHS with Polk door speakers is more listenable cranked to "15" now then it was at "20" at 65 MPH.

Used some hobbyist pillow foam in the cavities around the hatch as well as Raamat.
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In August when I replace the carpets I will do the kick panels and the rear by the wheel wells.


This project was well worth the time and effort but I did hurt my back working on each door! So I took 2 weeks to do the five doors. I am retired, and could afford the time. YMMV.
Since the previous post, my cat finally had to be replaced and I went with 2.25" I.D. cat, pipes, resonator, and muffler.

That added a low frequency boominess on acceleration but did not cause an overall increase in noise that interfered with either conversation or the audio settings.

Then two weeks ago I paid an audio shop to pull the seats and the carpeting and with my assistance we used my remaining materials and foam to stuff the kick panels, insulate the firewall, cover the floor, and cover and stuff the rear wheel well voids .

Boom is gentler, AC can be run at lower fan speed, and the audio setting is comfortable at 65 MPH 3 notches lower, at "12". I had not expected the bonus from having more heat insulation. High AC fan speed is more obtrusive than I had thought.
 

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2015 Forester CVT
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682 Posts
Generational and intergenerational differences

There seems to be differences between the Forester generations in the OEM application of sound deadening techniques. There also seems to be differences between the '16 and '17 in gen. 4. I did a lot of research and found that dampers barriers and absorbers each have specific purposes. I would be nice to know where and what sound treatments are most effective in which generation and mid generations of Forester. As some here have experienced taking a shotgun approach is often not efficient.

GD
 

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2013 Forester, Auto
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22 Posts
New to the forum, so hi guys. my question is are people leaving the vapor barrier on or are they throwing it in the garbage after installing the dynamat?
 

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2004 Forester XS 5MT
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1,012 Posts
I kept mine but just got replacement front panels and will be sourcing some deadener mat to finish them. But to answer your question yes, after first putting down matting because I dont cover all the openings with the matting.
 

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2013 Forester, Auto
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22 Posts
I kept mine but just got replacement front panels and will be sourcing some deadener mat to finish them. But to answer your question yes, after first putting down matting because I dont cover all the openings with the matting.
cool, thanks! I suppose ill just have to be careful when installing the mat because the sealer is some sticky poop that doesn't come off your hands.. But if I cover everything with the mat I suppose I don't need the sealer?
 

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2013 Forester, Auto
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22 Posts
I'm in Ottawa, Canada. So there is a lot of moisture here due to snow. Honestly im lazy so I may not put the barrier back on lol
 

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09 Forester
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53 Posts
New to the forum, so hi guys. my question is are people leaving the vapor barrier on or are they throwing it in the garbage after installing the dynamat?
I threw mine in the trash probably three years ago. Haven't had any problems, but i also live in a pretty dry area.
 

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'08 Forester 2.5X Sports 5MT
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138 Posts
Vapor barrier update - Not sure if there was some freak way water got in from the car wash - but there was a good knuckle deep worth of water in that little cubby that I had to soak up and get out of there, NOT good!
 

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2013 Forester, Auto
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22 Posts
Vapor barrier update - Not sure if there was some freak way water got in from the car wash - but there was a good knuckle deep worth of water in that little cubby that I had to soak up and get out of there, NOT good!
I found that water goes in from the window sill corners, but at the bottom of your door there should be a hole or two for the water to drain out from *if I recall. My cars at the shop rn, but I can double-check the holes once I get it back.

That was my reasoning for not putting the vapor barrier back on, I also covered all the holes with Noico 80mil.

Question for other people, have they put the mat in the armrest area? if so, is there a DIY on how to remove that console? id like to see what that area looks like before I tackle it...
 

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'08 Forester 2.5X Sports 5MT
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138 Posts
I found that water goes in from the window sill corners, but at the bottom of your door there should be a hole or two for the water to drain out from *if I recall. My cars at the shop rn, but I can double-check the holes once I get it back.

That was my reasoning for not putting the vapor barrier back on, I also covered all the holes with Noico 80mil.

Question for other people, have they put the mat in the armrest area? if so, is there a DIY on how to remove that console? id like to see what that area looks like before I tackle it...
Whoops. I misread the topic of discussion...my water woes are in the rear cargo area of a 08, so not related. No issues with water in the doors after sound deadening was installed 2+ years ago.
 

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6 Posts
Would these mats help at all with a drone-y exhaust?

And by that I mean, would it help reduce drone. Or just the overall exhaust volume?
 

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2006 Forester
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55 Posts
@Jgz1994 Please see my post #422 above. Nothing reduces overall volume like matting the doors and hatch, but once you have done them, if you still have exhaust boom, I recommend from my experience stuffing the rear wheel well voids [pulling the cargo bins, using polyfill, etc]. But if you have not matted the doors and hatch first, nothing good happens.
 

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2016 Forester Limited CVT
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67 Posts
I did the front and passenger doors a while back with Damplifier deadner. Now all the noise is clearly coming from the back and even more annoying. So I just ordered more and was planning to do the interior rear wheel wells and the hatch with deadener, plus Polyfill in the wheel wells. Are you suggesting that deadner in the rear wheel wells isn't necessary?
 

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20 Posts
Since the previous post, my cat finally had to be replaced and I went with 2.25" I.D. cat, pipes, resonator, and muffler.

That added a low frequency boominess on acceleration but did not cause an overall increase in noise that interfered with either conversation or the audio settings.

Then two weeks ago I paid an audio shop to pull the seats and the carpeting and with my assistance we used my remaining materials and foam to stuff the kick panels, insulate the firewall, cover the floor, and cover and stuff the rear wheel well voids .

Boom is gentler, AC can be run at lower fan speed, and the audio setting is comfortable at 65 MPH 3 notches lower, at "12". I had not expected the bonus from having more heat insulation. High AC fan speed is more obtrusive than I had thought.
What materials and locations did you do underneath the carpet? I'm hoping to insulate that area but wanted to make sure it didn't interfere with the carpet fit. I've read some guides that recommend removing all factory insulation under the carpet and replacing it but wasn't sure if that about of work was worth it.
 

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Registered
2013 Forester, Auto
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22 Posts
I did the front and passenger doors a while back with Damplifier deadner. Now all the noise is clearly coming from the back and even more annoying. So I just ordered more and was planning to do the interior rear wheel wells and the hatch with deadener, plus Polyfill in the wheel wells. Are you suggesting that deadner in the rear wheel wells isn't necessary?
Hey can you upload some pics of how you do the rear wheel wells? I've done the trunk door and the trunk area under the spare wheel but never did the wheel wells. TIA
 
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