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04 FXT 4eat
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
on an 04 xt, that is a daily , no power goals just safe

-vf39 with new boost tubes

-08 STI TMIC with BPV , gasket, bolts, STI recirc hose, hard y pipe with red coupler

-Turbo inlet hose (using stock airbox with snorkel delete)

-STI cat back ,using stock midpipe, BillyBoat dp with 3in to 2.5 adapter , extended hangers for muffler, turbo heat shield

-innovate wide band with a v3 Cobb AP

- union screw with filter (turbo location), remove filters in head both sides

-trans cooler (already installed)

-fuel pump (although I don't think completely necessary with only 39)

-gaskets : uppipe to turbo , dp to turbo, all exhaust

-Gates timing belts (blue because I have them from a previous project) , fix belt tensioner whine, water pump previously changed 5k back

-(possibly if feeling froggy) borla headers since they are in the garage on the floor

misc while I've got it apart: swift springs with 08 struts, top hats, blocks



This is what I have gathered from reading ALL the stickys and threads.

IS THERE ANYTHING THAT I AM FORGETTING? OR SHOULD BE AWARE OF ?

Thx Rz:Banane35:
 

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2004 Forester XTi 4EAT
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1,430 Posts
Seems like you have it all covered apart from the intercooler hose kit. You should also remove ALL filters from including the one in the turbo oil feed line. I would suggest a catless uppipe while you're at it.

Good luck with the build.
 

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04 FXT 4eat
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah I forgot to mention that I already have a catless uppipe installed.

Which hoses for the IC are you referring to? I have the hard y pipe with 2 other couplers that the seller included for me that mate up to the turbo

-"filters from the turbo oil feed line" - Roger that. Thanks
 

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2017 VW Golf SportWagen 5MT
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10,784 Posts
You may need some coolant to top off, some will leak out.

Stan
 

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2017 VW Golf SportWagen 5MT
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10,784 Posts
No need, just floor the accelerator and it won't start. Try it now.

Stan
 

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04 FXT 4eat
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Also , I will have to replace the turbo drain hose that is below the turbo , because the one that is on there now is leaking. I could get an oem replacement but I would like to get one that is longer to make it easier to install. What size or diameter is that hose, anyone know?
 

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2018 X3 M40i / 2016 X3 xDrive35i
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1,625 Posts
I think the 08+ TMIC is going to rub on the wastegate actuator. Be prepared to put spacers under the passenger side IC bracket to clear.
 

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2017 VW Golf SportWagen 5MT
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10,784 Posts
Not messing, pressing accelerator all the way in while cranking will cut fuel on drive by wire turbocharged Subarus, search for it. Worked on '07 for sure. If it doesn't work, pull the fuse but test it out before priming to make sure you got the right fuse, you don't want the car to actually start.

Stan
 

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Super Moderator
2018 X3 M40i / 2016 X3 xDrive35i
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1,625 Posts
Or you can just take a medicine syringe and inject some oil into the oil passage when installing before putting on the oil line. The whole pulling fuses thing to cold crank the car seems unnecessary when you should be priming on install.
 

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2017 VW Golf SportWagen 5MT
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10,784 Posts
Once the car does start, make sure there are no oil leaks ASAP. Then, when idling keep an eye on temperature needle. Usually, some air will get into the system and may have to burp it.

Stan
 

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04 Forester XT AT
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90 Posts
Also , I will have to replace the turbo drain hose that is below the turbo , because the one that is on there now is leaking. I could get an oem replacement but I would like to get one that is longer to make it easier to install. What size or diameter is that hose, anyone know?
Just stick with the OEM oil return hose and get a new one. Just buy a worm hose clamps and tighten it on the turbo first. Then all you have to do is drop it onto the bottom oil return line. I used the OEM spring clamp too that you put on the end of the return hose as you drop it into place and then use a very long long nose pliers to move it onto the hard pipe.

As for the intake hose to the turbo, you can get this long awl tool that comes with a dull angled tip. I got mine at Checker's, which is now known as O'Reilly auto parts. It'll make getting the intake rubber end off or on the turbo inlets lot easier....
 

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'21 ISM Crosstrek Limited
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1,177 Posts
Maybe I missed it, but who is doing the tuning?? Their opinion is important.

Personally, and I mean personally, I wouldn't tune this setup without an EBCS. It can be done with the OEM BCS if you're only looking for no more than 18psi... but then, what's the point of all the work and expense of this swap if not to make more power. :) The OEM BCS becomes a motor reliability issue over 18 psi where it loses firm command of boost, especially in cooler temps and max power at higher gears/speeds. Here again, the tuner's input is very important. If taking it to a tuner, that's one thing. If getting e-tuned that's another. Best, of course, is it being tuned by a competent YOU.

Also... if you intend to get all you can out of this VF39 swap's potential, you will run out of injector around the 300 whp mark, especially important in cold weather. You can stick with stock injectors, but they'll be maxed with no safety margin at this setup's maximum output.

While I stayed with the OEM injectors and pump on my STi, which had the comparable VF48, the pump had enough being the STi pump, but the OEM STi injectors often ran over 100% IDCs once the temps got into the 30F range.
 

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04 FXT 4eat
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just stick with the OEM oil return hose and get a new one. Just buy a worm hose clamps and tighten it on the turbo first. Then all you have to do is drop it onto the bottom oil return line. I used the OEM spring clamp too that you put on the end of the return hose as you drop it into place and then use a very long long nose pliers to move it onto the hard pipe.

As for the intake hose to the turbo, you can get this long awl tool that comes with a dull angled tip. I got mine at Checker's, which is now known as O'Reilly auto parts. It'll make getting the intake rubber end off or on the turbo inlets lot easier....
got an ORI just down the road: oem tube, worm clamp on turbo first, spring clamp on bottom ,:discomonkey:

Maybe I missed it, but who is doing the tuning?? Their opinion is important.

Personally, and I mean personally, I wouldn't tune this setup without an EBCS. It can be done with the OEM BCS if you're only looking for no more than 18psi... but then, what's the point of all the work and expense of this swap if not to make more power. :) The OEM BCS becomes a motor reliability issue over 18 psi where it loses firm command of boost, especially in cooler temps and max power at higher gears/speeds. Here again, the tuner's input is very important. If taking it to a tuner, that's one thing. If getting e-tuned that's another. Best, of course, is it being tuned by a competent YOU.

Also... if you intend to get all you can out of this VF39 swap's potential, you will run out of injector around the 300 whp mark, especially important in cold weather. You can stick with stock injectors, but they'll be maxed with no safety margin at this setup's maximum output.

While I stayed with the OEM injectors and pump on my STi, which had the comparable VF48, the pump had enough being the STi pump, but the OEM STi injectors often ran over 100% IDCs once the temps got into the 30F range.
Yeah, don't care about MAX anything. I don't plan on running more than 16.5-18 out of it anyway. Its the fam wagon and and if I can get 265-300 out of it SAFELY , then it is what it is. I have had an 02 bugeye that I got the MOST out of, I really don't have the time or the funds to keep up a high maintenance princess car. Tuning will be done through etune till I can get down to Georgia for a custom tune. 3portEBCs is a bit overkill for my goals. Its high mileage and an autotragic. Once I get this swap done, I will be saving for a short block and pistons, LOL , hell I might even throw in the ej22t block I have sitting in the garage in it , ooooorrrrr not , it holds up the work table pretty well.
 

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04 FXT 4eat
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Or you can just take a medicine syringe and inject some oil into the oil passage when installing before putting on the oil line. The whole pulling fuses thing to cold crank the car seems unnecessary when you should be priming on install.
:icon_cool: makes sense.
 
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