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Registered
99 Forester S
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey there guys,
Thanks for all your help with the my Head Gasket and Timing Job. Everything worked out just fine with that thanks to your extensive knowledge!
So... Alot of time has passed and I finally became able to finish up the HG job. Assembled the engine started it up and everything is great. There is a slight rocker kind of sound in the pass side head, but I will get in there and re adjust the gap soon when I change the oil.
I topped off all the fluids and since everything appeared fine I tried to drive it. Upon putting it in gear, the engine lowers the idle, like I suppose it should. The engine definitely reacts to having the shifter being put into various gears. But it slips a great deal when and if it will move at all. After searching the forums for trans slip, I found that this was a pretty common issue, so I went out to get replacement ATF. Valvoline Max life Dex Merc atf. The trans was very strong when I purchased this car, it didn't slip or shift hard at all.
So I am thinking that it must have been something that I have done in the process of pulling the engine and putting it back in. I replaced the seal where the engine and trans slip into one another and dinged it up pretty good the first time I tried to put the engine back in. Decided my lift was at the wrong angle and had to pull it again. Upon inspection the seal was pretty beat up and I ran out to get another one. Putting the engine back in I had to lift the trans a seemingly ridiculous amount in order to get the yoke back into the torque converter. After a little bit of adjusting the angles of my hoist chains once again, it seemed to go in very well. The biggest problem being jacking up the trans so as to make the union with the back of the engine and also making sure to have enough clearance over the engine mounts, to slide the mount bolts into the holes on the cross member...
I have dropped the pan this last weekend and emptied out all the ATF. The pan is bent a little, maybe a half inch upward on the engine side of the trans pan. I gently bent it back out a little and checked to make sure that it will not be a hindrance to getting more fluid from the pan and into the trans. I am pretty firm in the belief that there is nothing blocking the screen (which is on the back side of the trans pan). I inspected the screen and took the advice of a few posters on this forum, that said it was not worth the hassle to take it off and even though the front side of the pan is bent slightly, it appears to have the same clearance in the back of the pan, where the screen is. Rtv'ed a trans pan gasket, properly (no leaks not much excess) Let it set up for 48+ hours. I refilled it with the Max life ATF and it still slipped a lot. I cycled it through all the gears and let it run about 30-40mins total. I was able to drive it a little. maybe a mile or two tops. It doesn't want to engage into a gear. It slips from a stop in all gears and if it is in D it begins to slip when it needs to change gears, to the point it wont get into second automatically. I ended up limping home in 1 and 2. Checked the level of ATF and it says it is high. Waited about 30-40 mins for it to drop lower down the filler tube and it didn't so I let it sit for the night. Inspected all the hoses, no leaks or kinks (I replaced all the trans cooler lines with new goodyear trans cooler lines.) Each hose for the trans is connected to the proper line and not kinked at all. I emptied a couple quarts of the ATF and added the Trans X and enough ATF to have the dipstick read Full. I cannot get it to even engage into gear a this point and the only difference is the fact that trans x is there and also the gauge reads that it is not over filled anymore. So.... I researched and tinkered some more and now, every once in a while it will go into gear and this seems to be due to the fact that I am feathering the gas as it the revs drop from 3K down to roughly 2.2krpms.
Checked the fluid and let it sit. I am basically stuck at this point. Short of dropping the tranny and things of that degree, I am pretty much at a loss. It certainly seams to be an issue of fluid pressure, nothing electrical or mechanical that I can tell at least... There are no grinding or harsh sounds from either the trans or the engine and the when shifting it into gears, the engine reacts and slows the idle just enough to be relatively normal. With new fluids and hoses and everything being put on correctly, what do you think the culprit could be?
I looked all around and haven't found much. I saw an endwrench article about 4eat adjustments, but I cannot find anything at all about having a pressure problem inside the trans or the atf system.
I am wondering if I may have broken the first part of the yoke, the smaller outermost part but I also hear absolutely nothing coming from that area. Also, when it is able to drive, it doesn't make any sounds other than just revving.
What do you think I should do?
Anything at all would be a help
Thank you.
 

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Registered
99 Forester S
Joined
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Correction...

Upon further 4eat pics, I am not certain that I actually have a 4 eat, at least a phase ll one. So I will take a pic of the bottom, in a while once I get the pan back off.
 

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Premium Member
2008 Forester X Premium 5MT
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8,070 Posts
Double and triple check for any vacume leaks. Also look at any wiring you may have disturbed during the HG job.
 

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Premium Member
2004 Forester 4EAT
Joined
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5,462 Posts
Agree with plugs and vacuum leaks. Also, did you dump out any of the tranny fluid from the TQ when you pulled the motor? I've never done a Subby, but all other autos I've installed, I have poured a few quarts of tranny fluid directly into the TQ before installing into tranny. Other than that, I would have to agree that it's a pressure problem. Any idea on what the pressure should be? Can you tee in a guage to outgoing cooler line? I hate diagnosing AT's. There is some kind of magic juju that happens in those things.
 

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Registered
99 Forester S
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thank you fellas.
I checked the vacuum and electrical couplings. Everything seems good to go. Thank you Flst.
Jgrote: I did end up spilling some out of the back of the TC when it was dissasembled. I do believe that I neglected to put some atf back in before installing the engine. That hadn't occured to me so thank you for reminding me.
It has been running for over an hour total and driven roughly 2 miles since being reinstalled. I fiured in that time that if there was fluid needed in the TC it would have been pumped into the TC on it way around the lines.
A friend told me I should seal off the trans lines and reroute them back into the trans by closing off the first two metal pipes off of the trans. So. I just took off one rubber hose and put the other in a U shape from inlet to outlet pipe.
This lowered the amount of fluid on the dipstick by quite a lot. I topped off the little fluid that had fallen out of the lines ( not too much at all, but fluid was in both hoses) and checked it again. I was running it for a while and upon checking it, no fluid registered, so I added more and checked it again and the level seemed to lower little by little and over the course of a half hour and over all I ended up putting in another two quarts total. At this point, I was a little low on atf, but not too much. The dropping of the level had stopped.
So, I hopped in and tried to run up to Autozone for another qt. There is a small lip (maybe an inch) where the driveway meets the road and my foz had a pretty hard time about it... I got about half a block up the road and the At oil temp light started flashing. Put her in N and hiked her home.
Took the other car to AZ got two more qts and came back, checked the level and it read no fluid at all. Dumped them both back in and cycled through all the gears a couple times, let it sit and run and also "drove slow in the driveway" for a while.
Overall. Now, I am done for the night and will be at it tomorrow.
The gear that engages the lowest is reverse. Then drive and then 3 2 1.
Rev = 1200-1500.
D= 2200
all others = roughly 2700.
During my block-long drive, it was in D and slipped from 1 going into 2nd.
While I was cycling through in the driveway and testing each gear. In drive it rolls backwards, like being on an incline and slowly letting the clutch out on a MT.
In Reverse it of course rolls forward. This is with my foot off the brake and before I start revving to get the rpms up...
Gonna be a long night over here!
Thank you for your time and energies guys!
 

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2011 Forester touring 4EAT
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39 Posts
After you assembled the torque converter tube onto the torque converter, did you make sure that the tube was firmly seated into the transmission oil pump? If not, that could be your ticking noise (a damaged trans oil pump). You would have very little line pressure if any at all. Just a thought, hope I'm wrong.
 
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