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Discussion Starter #41
Painting Wheels...

Finally tackled this mod as I hate hate hated the stockers. I really like them now. Wife and I were SUPER pleased to see how well this turned out. Was WELL worth the time and painstaking effort for proper prep work.

Start by removing wheels.

Clean the snot out of them. I cleaned with dish soap and a brush first. Then a Scotch-brite pad, then SOS, then soap and water again. REALLY get in there to get all the brake dust/rust out.

Now sand with 320 grit paper.

I decided to paint the center caps and the inside of the wheels black, while painting the outside graphite. I used Duplicolor primer (3 coats), then Duplicolor wheel paint (graphite) 3 coats, then Duplicolor wheel clear coat (3 coats). Came out perfect.

Remember to mask area off.

Painting back black.




Painting center caps. Helps to balance them on a beer bottle to allow all angle access.



Inside


Prep inside to paint outside (only if different colors)


Prep outside to paint outside... (I fixed the messed up playing card before painting.)


Done.


With caps...




On the car (crappy night pics, will get better later.)





All in all these two wheels took me about 10 hours. This was with VERY careful prep and taking time between LIGHT coats. I also wrote a paper and did some work between, so it's not all work.

SO worth it. Will do other side on Tuesday.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Can't decide what to do with lugnuts... either get black, gray, paint these (not likely to work out well), or to leave them.

At night, they don't bother me, but I will be able to tell better tomorrow...

Also, might get some high heat paint to paint those terrible stupid rear drums...
 

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2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
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The wheels look great! :cool: As to the chrome lug nuts. I think some contrast is good. See if they grow on you. :smile:

I use RustOleum high temp Bar-B-Q Black paint on my brakes parts. You can view pictures here. :wink:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Thanks! That's what I am thinking. I like the idea of contrast. The only thing I hate is that it's the only bit of chrome left aside from the badges (soon to not be chrome either as they will be the same color as the rims.).

I just hate chrome. But I'll give it some time...
 

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2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
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I like a bit of chrome, but If you're blacking out your badges, I can see why you'd want to get rid of the chrome lug nuts. :smile:

I doubt if any paint will adhere well to the chrome lug nuts. The lug nuts are M12X1.25 & I've seen tuner lug nuts on eBay in pretty much any color you could want. :wink:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
 

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My brother in law and I will both be doing all the fluids and such before our trip to outer banks, NC in June. I will be sure to use this as a template. Nice work

I'll even see if he will do the raamat with me too :) getting both done before vacay would make a sweet drive :woohoo:
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Home made Bike Rack

I always get great pleasure out of building things myself that most people would purchase retail. My most recent fabrication was a roof rack for two bikes that will fit both of our Subarus' factory racks.

Here's the drawing I made, and some basic instruction, along with pricing, etc... It's dark now, so I will take photos tomorrow of both the rack itself, as well as with bikes on it.

Materials Needed for two bikes with Lowes prices that can easily be beaten by shopping around:

2- Yakima Blockheads (I already had these from when I had my truck. However, they retail for around $20 a piece)- For me $0.00

1- sheet of 6"x18"x1/16" aluminum. (Cut to two 6"x9" pieces. These are the front mounting plates.)- $6.23

3- 1/8"x1.25"x3' pieces of aluminum (cut into 9" segments. Two reinforce each front mounting place, and two secure each front mounting plate to the rails. Then one reinforces each rear wheel holder, and one secures each wheel holder to the rails. )- $8.56 ea Total- $25.68

1- 12"x18"x1/16" sheet of aluminum (cut into 12"x9" halves. Bend into a U shape that's 12 " long and 3"x3"x3")- $7.98

3- 4"x5" gripper pads (come in pack of 3)- $3.98

Now time for the hardware (I had all of this except for the wing nuts which cost $6.57 for 25).

To secure the Yakima Blockheads to the Mounting plates
4- 3/16"-20-1" Hex bolts
8- 3/16" washers
4- 3/16"-20 Locking nuts

To mount front plates to the factory rack
8- 5/16"-16-2" Hex bolts
24- 5/16" washers
8- 5/16"-16 locking nuts
8- 5/16"-16 Wing nuts

To secure rear wheel trays to rails
4- 5/16"-16-2" Hex bolts
12- 5/16" washers
4- 5/16" locking nuts
4- 5/16"-16 Wing nuts


Here's my crappy drawing with brief instructions...


Total price for me was about $50. So far they seem super sturdy and I am confident they will be very safe. Painted them the same color as the wheels...

Actual photos...
Front:






Back: (Got a little fancy with the bending compared to the drawing, but I couldn't strap the tire in since the sides were too tall)






And the Bike on it (Rear tire is not bungeed in yet...
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Thanks!

In other news- I added a table of contents to the front of this thread... figured it would be easier now than it will be after this thing's 10+ pages long
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Also- lucked into an Alpine iDA-x100today from my buddy that got a new truck... will be putting that in on Saturday.

(No weather radio, but being able to use my iPod with full user interface on full color screen sounds awesome!)

Pics of install to come this weekend...
 

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Discussion Starter #56
New Radio!

So today I installed my Alpine IDA-x100 so I can play my iPod with the iPod interface on the head unit!!!

Picked up the wiring harness from Best Buy the other day and went ahead and wired it up…

Now for the dash dismantle!
Start by un-doing the HVAC cables from behind the dash. You will find these in the foot wells in the middle of both the passenger and driver’s side.

Put car in neutral (so the center piece will come out), remove shift knob, cover shift threads with paper towel roll to prevent scratching, and pry the shift surround off starting towards the back of the car…

You’ll have to unplug the wiring harness on the power outlet



At this point I realized that it sucks to live in Florida. IT’S FREAKING MAY 1!!!!!!!! This is a problem.

But every problem has a solution. Here is mine.


Undo the two screws on the bottom of the HVAC panel, and pry from the bottom until only the bottom clips come undone.

Now pry the top off…

Undo the wiring harness on the hazard light and you have this…

…and this.

Remove the 2 screws on top of the radio and the two screws on the bottom… then pull radio and undo antenna and wiring harness.

Undo 2 screws mounting each side of the radio to the bottom and the mount…



Problem 2- Don’t drop the screws between the center console and the seat. (Yes, my e-brake area is dirty)

Put new radio in mount and screw 2 screws in on each side.

I drilled a hole in the back of the cubby so I can have my iPod in the cubby while driving for that clean look…

Duct tape is only trashy when you can see it!

Hook antenna and wiring harness to new unit and put in dash, then screw in the 4 screws.

I should add that now is a good time to insure that the radio works.


Put everything back the way you took it apart.


Not too shabby actually. Took about 20 minutes.

I should also add that the iPod cable charges the iPod as well. Great in that it charges it. Not great in that it will drain your car battery I would imagine. So don’t leave it hooked up!
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Thanks for the radio complement!

For the wheels... I did 3 coats of primer, 4 coats of paint, and 3 coats of clear.

More important than that, is to prep it well. I will add that my rims still look like they did the day I did this. I am convinced it's because of the effort I put into prepping it and also the fact I did a lot of coats.

Good luck. It isn't that bad.

Another tip... do the wheels in a constant area (i.e. shady and similar temperatures) as these variables can alter the shade/gloss of the paint.
 

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2005 Forester X
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Thanks for the radio complement!

For the wheels... I did 3 coats of primer, 4 coats of paint, and 3 coats of clear.

More important than that, is to prep it well. I will add that my rims still look like they did the day I did this. I am convinced it's because of the effort I put into prepping it and also the fact I did a lot of coats.

Good luck. It isn't that bad.

Another tip... do the wheels in a constant area (i.e. shady and similar temperatures) as these variables can alter the shade/gloss of the paint.
Yeah, I have a whole day planned for prepping. Do you remember how many cans of paint you went through? I'm going to grab the paint on my way home from work tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Yeah, I have a whole day planned for prepping. Do you remember how many cans of paint you went through? I'm going to grab the paint on my way home from work tonight.
One can each, believe it or not. I would pick up an extra can of the paint color though just in case. Because when I finished my last coat on my last wheel, it was empty. I did thin coats too to avoid creasing, which might have helped stretch the cans out a bit.
 
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