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No, you can change the behavior of the rear defrost in the settings to not shut off after 15 minutes. Then it stays on all the time as I recall from the winter, across shuts downs. I'll have to test this again though since it's been months since I last used that option.

EDIT: shoot, you were correct, the setting does not persist through a shutdown. I must have just remembered it that way since I drove all winter with it on, but must have been turning it on each time.
 

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@trainedmonkey These were the connectors and corresponding pins I was able to find. I ordered samples of each from TE Connectivity. Got them last week.

1379659-2
1565804-1
1123343-2
1674742-1

The male connector matches what is in the vehicle and is keyed to fit in the female receptacle. The only female connector I found is a generic one that does not have the key slots to match the grey connector. I plan on making slots to allow the grey connector to slide in.

They do sell the matching grey female receptacle but its for board mounting, and I really don't see it necessary to spin a board for something simple like this.
Nicely done. I am going to order that stuff and re-make my harness. I am utilizing the ground from the switch so it will all be plug and play. Piece of cake.

Also fyi to anyone looking at alternate methods. There are 20+ more ways to disable the auto start-stop but I did not see anything permanent that would not throw a code or cause other things to happen (ie trailer connection). This is based on the fsm auto start-stop diagnostic section and wiring diagram. There may be some advance level programming stuff such as tricking the computer into thinking it is past 280k starts. Since it can be disabled with about $20-$30 in supplies plug and play I guess my quest ends here. Thanks to all that have helped make this happen.
 

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Disable on/off fixture (very annoying to me)...

>:) Here is a photo showing where the board goes. I fastened it with some glue between the two rows of switches on the in-dash side of this switch assembly. After popping this switch assembly back into the dashboard, the little circuit board is not visible. The only giveaway would be if someone looked inside the fuse access door below this, they could see the +12 and Ground wires that go up to this tucked-away circuit board. (My +12 lead plugs into the extra fuse receptacle on lower right side of the fuse board, and my Ground lead goes to a screw contact on a metal dashboard frame piece.)

This assembly has a 4 transistor circuit that waits 5 seconds after car power comes on, then produces a pulse for 1 second that closes a relay. After this 1-second pulse, it stays idle and will not do anything until the next time the car is powered on. The contacts of the relay go to the Subaru stop-start disable switch. This simulates you pressing the button momentarily, 5 seconds after the car is started.
 

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I don't have a 2019 but this is beautiful. It's amazing how just needing to scratch an itch motivates people to solve problems.
 

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I don't want to make any vehicle modifications so I put a white sticker on my start switch that reminds me to take the next step of disabling the start/stop action whenever I start my car. It's becoming muscle memory...
 

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Here is the breakout harness. Thanks to schmidtc89 for identifying the parts. Just took a few slices with a Dremel to modify the white plastic part.
Looks good. You beat me to it. Have the parts sitting on my bench. My 2 month old is taking all my free time to put it together.
 

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Here is what I ended up with. I was not sure of the legal implications of electronically simulating a button press so I added and on/off switch. Use is at your own risk.

Thanks to everyone that helped figure this out.

Edit: updated the attachment; dl the new copy and discard the old one if you got this within the first few hours of posting.
 

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Here is what I ended up with. I was not sure of the legal implications of electronically simulating a button press so I added and on/off switch. Use is at your own risk.

Thanks to everyone that helped figure this out.

Edit: updated the attachment; dl the new copy and discard the old one if you got this within the first few hours of posting.
Nice work! Any one plan on making a plug and play harness to sell?
 

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Here is what I ended up with. I was not sure of the legal implications of electronically simulating a button press so I added and on/off switch. Use is at your own risk.

Thanks to everyone that helped figure this out.

Edit: updated the attachment; dl the new copy and discard the old one if you got this within the first few hours of posting.
Finally got mine installed over the weekend. Works great. Thanks for the diagram. (y)
 

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Here is what I ended up with. I was not sure of the legal implications of electronically simulating a button press so I added and on/off switch. Use is at your own risk.

Thanks to everyone that helped figure this out.

Edit: updated the attachment; dl the new copy and discard the old one if you got this within the first few hours of posting.
@trainedmonkey Thanks for the diagram. I just ordered the parts to build my harness. Do you think its possible to power the timer off the green wire from the body integrated unit rather than the fuze box? That's at 12v right?
 

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Hi all. Im keen to try this for my father. Over the weekend we used some jumpers based on a video i saw


this was from aus ( where my father is located ) but we tried it on a 2019 Legacy/Liberty. It works BUT doesnt fully work. Turn the car on, the light goes orange, all is good. However turn the lights on and off and the light reverts back to white. Kinda strange.. something in the lights in impacting this..

So im keen to try this mod, but im wondering if anyone is selling a complete solution, being in Aus its a bit harder to secure the parts, and i was only visiting home ( im in New Zealand ) so dont want my father to have to try and make this..

Attached are the pictures of the plug in our car. These looks slightly different to the units you have maybe?. This seems to have 4 rows of holes rather than two in the replacement plugs?? you can see the jumpers ive inserted based on the video. Does anyone have a close up picture of their plugs, the front side. i believe ive bridged 4 and 8 plus 2 and 5. As i mentioned this works, but not properly and im just going by the video so dont understand whats being bridged and why..

Any help appreciated.
 

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@trainedmonkey Looking for your help. Im a touch confused as to why you are only bridging two wires. The video below shows the guy bridging two sets and bridging them in different ways. Whilst the approach below works, it also doesnt fully work.. keen to understand if you have any thoughts.
Thanks

Hi all. Im keen to try this for my father. Over the weekend we used some jumpers based on a video i saw


this was from aus ( where my father is located ) but we tried it on a 2019 Legacy/Liberty. It works BUT doesnt fully work. Turn the car on, the light goes orange, all is good. However turn the lights on and off and the light reverts back to white. Kinda strange.. something in the lights in impacting this..

So im keen to try this mod, but im wondering if anyone is selling a complete solution, being in Aus its a bit harder to secure the parts, and i was only visiting home ( im in New Zealand ) so dont want my father to have to try and make this..

Attached are the pictures of the plug in our car. These looks slightly different to the units you have maybe?. This seems to have 4 rows of holes rather than two in the replacement plugs?? you can see the jumpers ive inserted based on the video. Does anyone have a close up picture of their plugs, the front side. i believe ive bridged 4 and 8 plus 2 and 5. As i mentioned this works, but not properly and im just going by the video so dont understand whats being bridged and why..

Any help appreciated.
 

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@mrhaboobi
There are 4 wires running to the button. In the US version the green wire is 12vdc for the led light returning on the brown wire. The white wire is 12vdc for the button returning on the black wire. When you press the button you are bridging the white and black wires.
That guy straight up cut all 4 wires so he's just joining them back together in lieu of the button.

All you really need to worry about is the white and black.
 
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