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And of course to add to my blood pressure lmao, the Check Engine light came on last night(imagine you see what looks like engine oil on top of your block after just having rebuilt your engine and you get a cell) lol, which turned out to be P0440 (Evaporative Emission System).. not that big a deal apparently.
I've had to deal with a similar error code, but mine was a vacuum leak/O2 sensor related error code, went away after fixing cracked hoses around fuel tank purge valve, the charcoal canister, and the O2 sensor.
Now I'm getting the P0420, (catalyst efficiency below threshold), not worried about it though, I have no emission testing where I live.

Found something related to your issue vv
porcupine73 said:
https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/8113-check-engine-p0440-error-evap-emissions-malfunction.html#post83201
"P0440 basically means your fuel tank or related hoses and piping have a leak somewhere. Do you smell gasoline outside the vehicle at all? Probably won't if it's a small leak.

Check fuel filler pipe. On some Suby's (especially here in NY with all the salt!) the fuel filler pipe corrodes. See if there is a plastic 'cover' over your filler pipe in the wheel well. If so, remove the plastic cover and see if there's any serious corrosion of the filler pipe.

Those are the easiest things to check first. Other than that, there's a drain valve on the pack that could be having an issue. Purge control solenoid could be having issues. evap lines could be cracked. canister could be cracked or leaking. fuel tank could have a leak.

If the shop has a smoke machine that can detect small evap leaks that might be worth a shot. I've heard the smoke machines are very effective at finding leaks."
 

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Discussion Starter #323 (Edited)
Stock radio was broken so it was time for a new one.. and of course added a back up camera which helps a lot. I had gotten so used to reversing with back up cameras I found it uncomfortable at times without it.
 

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Discussion Starter #324
500+ miles and running strong. Except for the leaked Freon false alarm and the Fuel system cell light, everything is working great.

Very happy with the new radio too. Being able to use the phone with it is a big plus!

Researching into the EVAP system, I found a great YouTube video with very good info. on how it all works, pretty cool.

https://youtu.be/EA3fm_UackQ
 

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Discussion Starter #325
Every time I fill up, it takes forever for the needle to indicate the tank is full(like 2-3 mins sometimes). Is this normal? Does this happen on your cars?
 

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Discussion Starter #327 (Edited)
I wonder if it's got something to do with the floater in the tank..

I mean the pump stops when the tank is full, meaning the fuel system knows when it is, but after turning on the car, the needle on the dash just takes a long time to go up to full.. weird. Doesn't really bother me as long as it indicates an accurate reading eventually, just saying..

update: Did a quick search and seems to be a normal thing on these cars, many owners reporting the same issue.
 

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I wonder if it's got something to do with the floater in the tank..

I mean the pump stops when the tank is full, meaning the fuel system knows when it is, but after turning on the car, the needle on the dash just takes a long time to go up to full.. weird. Doesn't really bother me as long as it indicates an accurate reading eventually, just saying..

update: Did a quick search and seems to be a normal thing on these cars, many owners reporting the same issue.
That’s normal for me. 05 XT. It bothers the crap out of me and I too think it’s the floater. But I’ve just dealt with it for 3 years since I’ve owned the car lol. Glad I’m not alone

Not sure if the floater is part of the pump? I may switch it and the filter out due to age at some point.
 

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There is an electrical delay built into the fuel level sensor circuit to slow the movement of the needle. People would freak out if their fuel level changed going up a steep incline or around a long corner, so the movement of the needle is severely slowed to avoid showing fuel slosh.
 

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Discussion Starter #330 (Edited)
^^ Ha ha.. Jeez man, you a Subaru engineer or something? I timed the fuel level the other day at the pump and it's actually a little longer than a min.. but good to know it's nothing major..

The motor finally reached the first 1,000+ miles driven.. and so far so good!

Very happy with the car.. the suspension could use an upgrade/overhaul, maybe change the shocks? Still got the low grinding/humming noise in the rear from most likely the rear wheel bearing.. looking to work on that soon.

Been commuting with it everyday and engine's been working perfectly thank God. However, a couple of CHECK ENGINE lights turned up, nothing major though, not related to the internal components or the function of the engine itself..

A friend at work lent me a great scanner, these are the codes that showed up:

P0440: Evaporative Emission System (I erased it and it eventually came back)

P0420: Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold

Burbling coolant sound went away completely after burping the system..

Only “weird” noise I hear when driving at low speeds(when accelerating the car) is a subtle ratchet like noise which increments in speed as I accelerate and eventually it can no longer be heard. Best way I could describe it is one of those plastic party ratchets that kids use, but the rear wheel bearing noise doesn't allow me to listen to it properly and/or pinpoint exactly where's it's coming from.. it seems to be from the front of the engine..

And finally, if I had do say something negative about this car is the seats. At least the driver seat is very uncomfortable, makes it worse when driving longer distances, very little lumbar support.. I really hope this was addressed in the later models, going to have to buy one of those support sponges for the back.

..Forgot to say, the motor oil dipstick doesn’t come out wet when measuring the oil..and I’ve tried it several times.. I think someone mentioned this before.. and obviously I have no leaks.. weird

And finally, I’m not getting very good mileage either, around 18.4mpg to be exact, will look into changing the charcoal canister as a member here suggested, I have stepped on it sometimes though.. so that measurement might be a little off..
 

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Not for Subaru, but I am a Vehicle Design Engineer by training.

Sounds like you've got things well in hand. Do lots of research and as questions before you dive into the next repair. Now that you've cut your teeth on the head gaskets, every repair from here on out should feel like a breeze! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #332
You know, I have to ask.. are these engines known for burning oil?
Not sure if it’s that or the oil deep stick is not measuring what it should, but it’s wetting less than 1/2 between low and full.
Engine doesn’t leak and I put exactly the amount it needed back when I first started the motor a little over 1K miles ago..
So what the hell?? Weird..
 

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Hmm ... .. . Mine doesn't, but I have a JDM 2.0L. What weight of oil are you using? I use 5w30 or 5w40 full synthetic depending on availability.


Sent from my SM-J700F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #334
I used regular Castrol 10W-30, not synthetic, going to add some till I get around to do the oil change.

For next oil change, I’ll be using Mobil One 10W-30 full synthetic.

Looked under the engine today and everything seems dry on the bottom and rear of the engine.. unfortunately I did notice a very small leak on front left timing cover, probably from left camshaft seal 😞
Leak it’s very small(haven’t seen any oil dripping on my driveway yet), but it’s there..

I also noted the left tie rod boot is kind of torn.. another thing to work on eventually.

And the oil level gauge guide(not the stick) seemed to have a very small amount of oil dampness around it..
 

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Did you change out your PCV valve with an OEM Subaru valve? Replaced the hoses between the block and the valve?

On our Forester these parts were almost filled with oil coke and had a direct impact on oil consumption.

Ours doesn't burn enough oil to see out the tailpipe, but I'm sure we burn a little at 225k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #336 (Edited)
Did you change out your PCV valve with an OEM Subaru valve? Replaced the hoses between the block and the valve?

On our Forester these parts were almost filled with oil coke and had a direct impact on oil consumption.

Ours doesn't burn enough oil to see out the tailpipe, but I'm sure we burn a little at 225k miles.
I don’t think I saw a PCV valve on mine. The hoses there were full of dried up oil and almost clogged up though.. but I cleaned the heck out of them and left them operational again.

Here’s the leak I have under left timing cover. Based on the location of the leak, I’m guessing it’s the camshaft front seal. I remember I was extra careful when installing them. I installed them flush with the front of the head.. not pushed in. Anyways.. it’s really not much at all, it barely drips and I guess it’s better than having a rear main seal leak where one has to remove the engine to replace it.
Please see attached photos
 

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Discussion Starter #337 (Edited)
Do you guys know if it’s possible to do a rear brake disc/pads upgrade/conversion vs shoes with a newer model Forester that would have a bolt on hub assembly in order to avoid the whole press in bearing work? Was thinking of doing the brake pads conversion in the rear. If a newer model which has the bolt hub assy fits, I’d kill two birds with one stone.. just saying

Update: Ok, well it seems it isn’t worth spending the money, time sorting the parts and the work for this conversion.. I looked up a few threads and there isn’t much of a benefit/stopping power in the brake pads vs shoes.. specially when an entire rear brake job from Amazon runs for around only $70(new shoes, hardware & drums)..
 

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Discussion Starter #338 (Edited)
Hey all! It's been a while since I've been here, hope you're all doing great. Engine's reached 3K miles already without a hiccup, thankfully. I still have a very minor leak which appears to be from the L head camshaft seal. But the leak is so small, it doesn't even create a drop of oil under the T/B cover.

I finally got around to rebuilding the P/S pump, its whining noise when starting the car was driving me crazy. If you are attempting this yourself, pay close attention to the orientation of how parts are seated inside the oil pump housing(pics at every step of the process really helps). It's really simple, but easy to make a mistake too. The pump was doing a clicking noise when rotating the pulley and I ended up having to take it apart. I had placed the part which seats at the bottom though the shaft rotated 180 degrees. Also, the vines(little blades) have a burnt mark indicating their position facing outward. All good now. Overall, not a difficult job at all, just that one has to pay close attention to how the parts are seated inside the oil pump. Couldn't find a tear down of the P/S pump in the FSM. There's no more whining noise at startup or when locking steering wheel full L or R. Pretty happy with the results, not a bad DIY for only $25.

523337


523339


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I have been wondering about how your car is going and looked a few times.

Since last writing, I had to replace some cheap ebay led front parking light globes that were relatively new. I have found that many of the ebay led globes fail early, some after a few minutes or if they uses an array of leds a few of them fail early.

It's a terrible job removing everything to get to the bulbs and I ended up having to pull the grill as well. There are three sets of different plastic clips holding everything on and I broke one of each. I haven't managed to find replacements on the net as yet.

In regard to your oil seal leak, my seals were flush as well. It's possible the leak is from the camshaft half housing you removed. The contact surfaces are polished. Possibly a smear of sealer was required. Often there is nothing in any car brand manual about this except to say to put a dob of sealer around the tight bends of any gasket. It's also possible that it is the seal itself as I have replaced gearbox driveshaft seals on other brands of car that weren't leaking and they leaked afterwards. This was using special tools that pushed everything in properly.

Did you replace any bearings in the steering pump. Seals only as shown in the photo should not cause noise at start I think.

Also, my wife has started to do short trips and the fuel economy is poor - nearly double that if we were cruising at high speed. Around 13 to 14 km'100km. Our 3 litre Mitsubishi returns better fuel economy around town and highway cruising.
 

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Discussion Starter #340
Hey Peter!
Yeah, the eBay items are a 50/50 sometimes. That's why I went mostly with OEM seals for the engine on mine. I didn't think it was so difficult to get to the headlight bulbs, I actually have to change mine too since they're faded.

In regards to the oil leak, are you referring to the camshaft cap? It might be from there.. the FSM calls for a 3 mm bid of sealant there which I applied carefully. Like I said, it's not really bothering me since it doesn't even form a drop of oil under the T/B plastic cover.. I kinda like the burnt oil smell after I drive it for a while.. Ha! No leaks anywhere else..

I didn't replace the bearing in the P/S pump as it was intact. It made no noises at all when rotating it. I really don't know why it had the whining noise before whenever I started the car or when locking the wheels R or L. I came to think it was the belt also, but after the rebuild all the noise are gone so..

I've measured the mileage on mine after refills several times, I'm getting about 18-19 mpg, a bit lower than what this car is supposed to do (22/27). I drive mostly in the city, but then again it's 18 years old. Someone here mentioned changing out the charcoal canister to improve gas mileage, but I have to concentrate now on the changing brakes, flushing the fluid and that rear wheel bearing/s.
 
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