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Once the engine is ice cold, look at the fluid level in the overflow tank. As the coolant cools, it will draw in fluid from this reservoir, so make sure to always keep it topped up, especially while you still hear the "babbling brook" behind the dash.

If you want to burp the system again, try doing it with the front end as high in the air on jack stands as safely possible, heater set to hot. Go around and massage both heater hoses and radiator hoses while you wait for the radiator fans to kick on and continue massaging until you don't see any more bubbles.
 

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Discussion Starter #302
Oh I see.. I thought the car had to be leveled so I did it that way. I did turn On the heater but on its lowest setting.
I did noticed that once the engine was running at operating temperature is when most of the air bubbles came out.
I'll repeat the process as recommended. As always, thanks for the tips!

I almost forgot to mention.. The A/C is down due to a leak, but I found it and I'm hoping to fix it real soon.

Btw.. I didn't think I'd like this car so much, it's so practical.. even for a 2001, it drives very nice.. it's like a nimble, agile little tank. My old man loves it too and when he drove it he said: Oh man! This doesn't feel like a Toyota at all.. lol I had to laugh. I said: Sure Dad, it's the AWD system every Subaru owner likes so much.
..and my wife.. well, she just looks at me funny, like really?? I just tell her.. you don't understand..

"Don't get between a man and his truck.. it's a beautiful thing" :grin2:
 

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I did turn On the heater but on its lowest setting.
Fan speed doesn't matter, but you want the HVAC controls set to hot. That knob is attached to a valve that allows hot engine coolant into the heater core. If the valve is closed and there is air in the heater core, you'll have to wait a VERY long time for the babbling brook to quiet down (as the air is slowly purged each time you drive with the heater set to hot).
 

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Discussion Starter #306
Fan speed doesn't matter, but you want the HVAC controls set to hot. That knob is attached to a valve that allows hot engine coolant into the heater core. If the valve is closed and there is air in the heater core, you'll have to wait a VERY long time for the babbling brook to quiet down (as the air is slowly purged each time you drive with the heater set to hot).[/QUOTE]

Man you know these cars like the back of your hand. I actually didn’t hear the “babbling brook” today, probably a really good sign. Either way, I’ll try it again with the heater On the whole time.
 

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Discussion Starter #307
A/C leak fixed!

It seems this is a very common issue with these cars. The O-rings at both A/C (low pressure & high pressure lines) connecting points to the compressor tend to go bad, that's were the leak was. Simple replacement and refilled the system with R134a, got cold air again!

Can't be without A/C in South FL, way too hot down here.
 

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How did you do it? Over here in Oz it can't be purchased unless you are licensed and (supposedly) trained. On top of that you are always told you need a new compressor or need some other expensive parts to bulk up the bill and it ends up being expensive. Just a refill will cost say $90 to $130 US or more. I met a person here who imported some gas from the US and did it himself. Don't you have to measure the mass of the gas before you fill and is there any lubricating oil pre-mixed with the gas. Possibly you could direct me to a gas supplier who might mail to Australia as I would like to learn more.
 

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Discussion Starter #312 (Edited)
There are many videos on YouTube explaining the process, it’s really not that difficult. “EricTheCarGuy” has a really good video about the whole thing. R134a is available here to everyone. One can purchase 11-12Oz cans with no problems at Walmart. Some come with a gauge or you can get it separately(cheaper, which is what I did). In my case, I was lucky the leak was at both connecting points to the compressor, so after replacing both O-rings there was no more leaks. I changed the O-rings as quick as I could to avoid having moisture getting into the system. It is also recommended to change the dryer can, but I didn’t. Then, simply attach the gauge to the low pressure valve and filled up both cans with engine running and A/C on high. Soon as the system starts to feel the gas, the A/C compressor clutch engages. Fill the rest of the gas and voila! Got cold air again!
Make sure to not fill the system with more than indicated on the sticker next to the radiator, I think the max it can take is 24-25 Oz of gas.

https://youtu.be/M6ugXLYzmg0
 

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Discussion Starter #313 (Edited)
PeterfromOz,
The small 11Oz R134a cans here are as cheap as $5 each. Some come with the oil to treat the system and some even include the dye to detect where the leak may be. But even a bigger can with a gauge attached to it doesn’t cost more than $30. If you need a couple of R134a cans and a gauge, I can find out how much it would cost you to fly the package to you in Australia and will gladly do it for you. Let me know.

Update.. I didn't see the post from Kevin before about compressed gas having to be shipped via maritime vessel. I can still ask around though..
 

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Discussion Starter #314 (Edited)
420 miles later and I got a check engine light..

Not sure if it’s related but after looking under the car, I noticed the bottom of the left timing belt cover was a bit wet with engine oil. Suspecting a left camshaft seal leak, I started looking on the engine bay. Turns out the top of the engine right under the left intake manifold runners and behind the A/C compressor there are oil deposits right on top of the engine.. I noticed a little bit of oil close to the knock sensor also in between the grooves of the engine.. ???

The least I was expecting is the engine to to be leaking from up top. Both heads look perfect, no apparent leaks around the HGs at all..

Going to a friends house to connect the scanner see why I’m getting the check engine light.. hoping it’s just something minor.
 

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Did you spill any oil when filling the engine? I find that it will drip down the filler neck and make a mess of the driver's side head/cam sensor area.

IF it's not from an assembly error, I would expect any new oil leak to be on the bottom of the engine, since there is no oil being transferred outside the block (coolant crossover pipe jumps outside the block). Use some brake clean to hose off the oil and see if it comes back. You could also toss some dye in the crankcase and use a UV lamp to look for leaks.

I thought I had an oil leak as well after my rebuild, but that was back in November and the oil level has been rock solid compared to how much was leaking/coking in the PCV system. We still have the occasional whiff of hot/burning oil after coming to a stop after a long stretch of highway driving, but I can't seem to track down any new leaks. I do suspect the oil filter or oil cooler seal, however.
 

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Did you spill any oil when filling the engine? I find that it will drip down the filler neck and make a mess of the driver's side head/cam sensor area.

IF it's not from an assembly error, I would expect any new oil leak to be on the bottom of the engine, since there is no oil being transferred outside the block (coolant crossover pipe jumps outside the block). Use some brake clean to hose off the oil and see if it comes back. You could also toss some dye in the crankcase and use a UV lamp to look for leaks.

I thought I had an oil leak as well after my rebuild, but that was back in November and the oil level has been rock solid compared to how much was leaking/coking in the PCV system. We still have the occasional whiff of hot/burning oil after coming to a stop after a long stretch of highway driving, but I can't seem to track down any new leaks. I do suspect the oil filter or oil cooler seal, however.
Hoping you spilled oil. The oil filler tube can be sneaky. You no doubt put a funnel of some sort in there. I have over filled mine a couple of times. The oil rises up in the funnel and you THINK it is the funnel that you are getting ahead of. But in my case, its the filler tube and when the funnel fills up, it also fills up the tube and quietly drools over the outside of the filler tube. I always noticed it and then proceeded with the cleanup.

Here's hoping you are a clutz and an inattentive person too, and you just have some filler overflow on the engine.....
:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #318
I was very careful in filling up the engine with oil back when I assembled it. Trying to figure out how the oil could have gotten there, I checked up and down everywhere, but found no leaks whatsoever around the heads, fill stick, filler neck, etc. I came to the conclusion it had to be refrigerant R134a and not engine oil.

What happened is I freaked out at the sight of "oil" on top of the engine block, but after thinking about it, it could have only be that first can of Freon I originally put into the A/C system. I remember the cold air through the vents that day only lasted for a few hours, and since the A/C system is under pressure, it naturally would have pushed it out. I just never thought about it till now. That is actually how I found the A/C leak at first, because I saw bubbling at both the connecting points to the A/C compressor before changing the O-rings with that first can.

So I placed a wooden dowel with its tip wrapped in cotton to clean the oil off the block surface and inspect it(can't fit my hands in there). I couldn't tell at first as I currently have a cold and can't smell the oil that I found there lol. Anyways, it looks very much like engine oil, but with a bit more fluorescent yellow tone to it.

Therefore, based on where the oil fell/was deposited(right on top of the block, under the left intake manifold runners and right behind the A/C compressor, I can only assume it was the refrigerant that leaked all over there and once I drove the car, it moved even further towards the back of the block by the knock sensor.. Most of it it's dried up now, I'll check again tomorrow, but it can only be that.. Phew..

And of course to add to my blood pressure lmao, the Check Engine light came on last night(imagine you see what looks like engine oil on top of your block after just having rebuilt your engine and you get a cell) lol, which turned out to be P0440 (Evaporative Emission System).. not that big a deal apparently.
 
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