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2005 Forester EJ251
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96 Posts
The lights I changed are the very outer small ones which sit inside the mudguards even though they are part of the whole headlight housing. They can't be reached from the engine bay like the headlight bulb can. We call them parking lights because you can leave them on at night if parked in a position where another driver might not see the car.

The L-shape headlight surround has to be twisted and pulled outward to clear the grill and headlight edge then pushed hard sideways. This normally breaks one of the clips. You always get a feeling that you are going to break the L cover as well.

Yes, it's the camshaft cap I was referring to.

The whining noise is often belt slip. I replaced the alternator belt and one idler pulley and I noticed it is losing a lot of rubber particles. I've looked at it a few times and it appears the v grooves on the belt are wider than the v grooves in the pulleys. I am assuming it will wear in although it has been driven for more than 10,000m (6,000 miles).

Converting Litres/100km to US gallons, my fuel usage is about the same as yours.
 

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2000 SF5 Automatic
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450 Posts
Yay! Good to see the foz is alive and well. I get at least 8km per litre = 12.5L / 100km city driving.

Sent from my SM-J700F using Tapatalk
 

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2005 Forester EJ251
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96 Posts
Country driving my car returns about 7.5 to 9 l/100km which is a big difference than city driving.

Does anyone know if the manual gearbox produces better economy. The Mitsubishi I mentioned above is a manual.
 

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Registered
2001 Forester 4EAT
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347 Posts
Discussion Starter #345 (Edited)
Finally got around to servicing the brakes(my first ever brake service on a car by myself lol) I replaced the front pads, serviced the caliper pins/boots which were super dry and attempted to replace the drum brakes/shoes. I say attempted because even though I was able to disassemble and put together the rear left drum & shoes, the shoes I purchased from eBay weren't the same as the ones that were on the car. The stud mounted on the trailing shoe which holds the parking brake lever was shorter and would not allow the retainer to be mounted and hold the lever. I thought I'd get lucky with brakes, but lesson learned. Don't go cheap on brakes either, at least for the shoes, it's better to buy them directly from Subaru parts online. Also bled the brakes, fluid was old/dirty. The emergency brake cable is a #%$%(%@*& to get on. I would like to service the wheel cylinders too, good thing Subaru parts has the kit online.
Bought a little 12 ton press form HF too, could't pass up the great deal.

5,300 miles and counting, engine still strong!

In regards to the rear wheel bearing noise, the issue seems to be on the rear left.
I honestly was beat the day I service the brakes and needed the car the next day for work. I should be able to tackle that next time once I overhaul the slave cylinders and get new oem shoes.

Using the manual of course :)
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This break lubricant from Advanced Auto Parts is highly recommended for break jobs, won't damage boots and can be applied on all contact points

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Greasing those pressure points! Barely anyone does this on the videos I've seen.

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Caliper pins/boots hadn't seen grease in a while

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Unfortunately had to keep the old shoes till I buy the news ones from Subaru. Surprisingly, there's really not much wear on them.
Plan on overhauling wheel cylinders as well..

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Ugh.. the break fluid was dirty

526953


Harbor Freight has some good tools at a great price!

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Picked up some scrapped landing gear bushings for pushing/pulling bearings

526952
 

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2001 Forester 4EAT
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347 Posts
Discussion Starter #346
Glad to hear it’s going well!

I may have missed some of the info but noisy ps pumps are often caused by seals that let air bleed into the system. Not sure if the seals you replaced could have caused that but if so, it makes sense why it’s quieted down.
I'm replying so late to your post, my apologies. The PS pump has been fine after the rebuild (y)
 

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2002 Forester 4 speed auto
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29 Posts
This is a great thread! I currently have the engine pulled out of my 02 White Forester, same issue as yours except mine has 222,000 miles. I've read through your thread to give me a little inspiration and knowledge since this is also my first engine overhaul. The only thing different I've seen between what I've done to mine and you've done to yours is brakes were the first things I did when I bought mine.
 

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2013 Manual
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53 Posts
Nice thread and project! I wish I took more pictures when I work on a project like you do but I always forget.
 

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2001 Forester 4EAT
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347 Posts
Discussion Starter #350
This is a great thread! I currently have the engine pulled out of my 02 White Forester, same issue as yours except mine has 222,000 miles. I've read through your thread to give me a little inspiration and knowledge since this is also my first engine overhaul. The only thing different I've seen between what I've done to mine and you've done to yours is brakes were the first things I did when I bought mine.
Keep at it man, you will get there! It took me 4 months, so don't feel bad if you're taking long..
If I did it, believe me you can do it too, just don't rush things, don't force anything, organize everything and make sure to have the right tools for the job.
How far are you in the tear down? Hopefully everything will be ok and you don't have to hone the block also.
Do try to get an online copy of the FSM, it makes all the difference. The Six Star HGs I bought have been great so far, I highly recommend them.

There's a ton of info on this thread from advise other members gave me out through the process, I honestly couldn't have done it without them.
Good luck and let me know if you need some clarification or help . I'm not an expert but I've learned some (y)
 

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2002 Forester 4 speed auto
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29 Posts
Keep at it man, you will get there! It took me 4 months, so don't feel bad if you're taking long..
If I did it, believe me you can do it too, just don't rush things, don't force anything, organize everything and make sure to have the right tools for the job.
How far are you in the tear down? Hopefully everything will be ok and you don't have to hone the block also.
Do try to get an online copy of the FSM, it makes all the difference. The Six Star HGs I bought have been great so far, I highly recommend them.

There's a ton of info on this thread from advise other members gave me out through the process, I honestly couldn't have done it without them.
Good luck and let me know if you need some clarification or help . I'm not an expert but I've learned some (y)
I have until next fall to git' r done! I've already got the engine pulled and tore apart, just deciding whether to go with a new short block or have the block rebuilt. Could you show me where you got your FSM? I have a Haynes repair manual but it doesn't get into the engine. I'm probably gonna go with 6 stars because I want mine to be a one and done, "run till the wheels fall off" car.
 

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2001 Forester 4EAT
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347 Posts
Discussion Starter #356 (Edited)
I finally got around to replacing the Left Rear Wheel Bearing, along with both L & R oem brake shoes and wheel cylinders respectively. It was a big job and a learning process for me since I had never done this before, but it is definitely doable.

Word of advice: If you are going to attempt this job with a press, make sure you spend an extra $50 on an eBay bearing press tool kit as well, it'll make all the difference.

I almost bent the back plate in the process of pressing out the bearing, thankfully, I noticed it on time.
Mostly all the videos out there on YouTube, they are doing it wrong when using a press.
Any tool used to hold/brace/press in/out the bearing must be seated only onto the spindle/knuckle itself and not on the back plate, do not make the mistake I did. Failure to do so will bend the plate and end up with a crooked ABS sensor hole. I was fortunate I noticed it on time and I stopped, so it turned out ok.

When driving, the low humming/grinding noise it had is gone, but the rear Right side will have to be done eventually as well. Brake fluid was bled, suspension rides a lot better now.

Before: bad Left wheel cylinder
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Left Rear Housing Assy removed
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Pressing out the hub from the bearing (the hub doesn't offer much resistance to be pressed out from the bearing), but pressing out the bearing from the knuckle requires much more force, so it should be done with the knuckle seating/braced directly onto a bearing tool kit) NOT ON WOOD as you see here, as the force required to removed the bearing will bend the back plate down
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Hub assy removed from rear wheel bearing
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Notice the ABS sensor slightly crooked to the outside (not totally parallel) to the bearing housing. Should still be able to read the tone wheel, did not get any error codes after thankfully
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New brake components on both sides (OEM rear shoes, new hardware and new wheel cylinders)
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2001 Forester 4EAT
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347 Posts
Discussion Starter #358
Congs!
You're getting to be quite the Subie expert.

Sent from my SM-J700F using Tapatalk
Thanks! I have much to learn in other areas like electronics, still dealing with that Catalytic Converter below threshold code..
 

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2001 Forester 4EAT
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347 Posts
Discussion Starter #359
At first couldn't tell why the old bearing was making the noise, but after taking it apart and cleaning it, it's evident where the damage was. Notice how pitted one half of the inner bearing was, many rollers were damaged also. The other half was intact.

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Closeup of the damage
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Old wheel cylinders were truly filthy, yes that's old dirty brake fluid
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Much cleaner and seating in kerosene for a few days. This is how we would clean bearings in Cuba back in the day :)
kerosene is a great solvent
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New grommets to restore old cylinders. Only $10 at Subaru online parts! It even includes the lubricant
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🤓 You got off a bit light. Take a look at these ... .. .


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